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                      HITTING THE TAPE

                      Audio Tips From
            I n s y n c   P r o d u c t i o n s



     Most of us consider ourselves audiophiles.  Why not?
This high-tech world of ours has consistently given us
better and better mediums on which to store audio and the
hardware on which it is reproduced has also gotten to the
point where analog recordings sound ALMOST as good as
digital.  Hmmmm... if you have always wanted to know why
your analog recordings (cassette) just don't seem to do it
for ya' then sit back and read this.  We'll give you some
pointers on how to "hit the tape" in such a way that you
receive more energy or blast from that thing we call a
cassette.


                       I.  TAPE TYPES

     Manufacturers are putting out three tape types:  TYPE I
normal,  TYPE II (HIGH) CrO2, and TYPE IV (METAL) [black
magnetite, etc.].  Obviously, our first tape type is the
least expensive and poorest sounding while metal or TYPE IV
is the most expensive and best sounding.  What does all of
this really mean?  There are three things to take into
consideration when looking at tape types: 1. Sound
Reproduction, 2. BIAS,  and 3. Energy consumption before
clipping or distortion which is directly related to sound
reproduction.

     Let's start with number three.  Energy consumption
(this is what we'll call it in this collumn) is the amount
of magnetic energy a cassette tape can handle before
distortion results.  The SENSITIVITY of the tape is measured
in decibels (dB).  This measurement is usually indicated on
the back of a tape before you open it (those funny looking
graphs).  It may say +1dB or +6dB- in any case, the higher
the dB level then the harder you can hit the tape.  We'll
discuss this more later.

     BIAS is shown along with the tape type (i.e. TYPE II
HIGH).  The bias is what allows the user to record onto a
new tape (along with the record head) or to tape over a
cassette.  When people say that they are going to blank the
tape, they are essentially using the wrong terminology.  No
one can "blank" a tape.  That would mean stripping off the
magnetic coating in which case you would not be able to
record at all.  Setting the proper bias for your tape means
that you will be aligning the magnetic particles in a
straight line in preparation for recording.  However they
were arranged from a previous recording is now gone and you

have "erased" the recording.

     Bias is extremely important when recording.  If you
have ever taped over something only to find out on playback
that you cab still hear it in the background then you know
that you either selected the wrong bias current or you have
a bias problem.  Selecting NORMAL bias for a METAL tape just
won't work.  Make sure you select the right bias!  If your
deck does it automatically then you're lucky although you
should check to make sure it is correct.

     Sound reproduction is directly related to the above two
categories.  Not selecting the right bias will result in a
terrible recording.  The amount of energy that the tape can
handle is important as well.  If you spend $4-$6 on a new
tape then it makes sense to get the most out of it.  A tape
that can handle high magnetic energy will usually also
flaunt its capabilities for delivering a high dynamic range
and frequency reproduction.


                    III.  YOUR EQUIPMENT


     It usually does not matter whether or not you have a
Sony or a Luxman deck as long as they have bias selection
and a manual recording level on them.  Most important is how
well you maintain your equipment.  Regular cleaning and
de-magnetization will allow for clean recordings all of the
time.  If you want to clean the heads and capstans yourself
then use a denatured alcohol solution and q-tips.  When you
clean the heads, make sure you clean back and forth (left to
right) and NOT up and down.  The latter may result in your
scratching the heads which will alter the magnetic current
and you know what that means.  Be careful not to
oversaturate the q-tip.  Too much of a good thing ain't too
good.  When cleaning the capstans, do NOT use a lot of
alcohol because you will end up drying out the rubber.

     One last pointer,  when you buy new tape, insert it
into the deck and fast forward it to the end and then rewind
it.  This will blow off all of the excess oxide that settled
during shipping.  This will also result in a better
recording.


           IV.  RECORDING HOT or HITTING THE TAPE

     After you have CLEANed the heads, selected the proper
BIAS, and checked out the DECIBEL range of your tape, you
can start recording.  Put on the CD, LP, or tape that you
wish to reproduce, put you deck into record/pause, and set
you level.

Keep in mind that you really are not recording yet.  What
you want to do is watched your levels and see what the
hottest points or peaks are in the music that you are
recording.  If your levels are peaking at +8dB and your tape
can only handle +3dB then distortion will most likely occur
(most metal tapes can handle +6 dB).  Set your record level,
cue the tape and your source, and start recording.


     You will find that your recording will be more
efficient, sound better, and will be more powerful.




QUESTIONS/COMMENTS:


     Insync will answer any and all questions you have about
consumer recording and equipment, film/video, multi-track
recording, sequencing, and digital audio recording once a
week.  One topic will be chosen and written about in a
column once a week.

     SEND ALL COMMENTS/QUESTIONS VIA PERSONAL MAIL TO

                          TODD DAY

ON THE CHEYENNE BBS.