Lycaste

This genus produces large, showy, triangular flowers that are waxy and long-lasting.  The
plants are distinctive for their roundish bulbs and broad plicate(pleated) leaves.  Two
cultural groups are generally recognized - the evergreen  skinneri-type  that flowers from
leafy pseudobulbs, and the deciduous  aromatica-type , that flowers from leafless
pseudobulbs.  Culture for the hybrid genus Angulocaste (Lycaste x Anguloa) follows the
culture for the Lycaste parent.

LIGHT requirements vary. Deciduous species prefer light conditions as for cattleyas,  2,000
to 4000 foot-candles or 50% to 70% shade. More light is usually provided as new growths
form pseudobulbs.  Evergreen species prefer less light, 1,500 to 2,000 foot-candles or 60%
to 80% shade.

TEMPERATURE for the evergreen species should be fairly constant and never hot. Nights
of 52 to 58 degrees F and days of 65 to 78 degrees F are desirable.  The deciduous
species of Lycaste can tolerate a upper range up to 95 degrees F during the day and down
to 50 degrees Fat night when dormant in the winter.

WATER should be applied in larger amounts during active growth (usually summer) than
when the plants are not producing new leaves and pseudobulbs.  The potting medium
should just begin to dry out before watering.  Deciduous species should be kept almost
completely dry when leafless; evergreen species should be kept only slightly drier than
normal after pseudobulbs form. Water should be kept off the leaves, and especially out of
new growths, to prevent rot or leaf spotting.

HUMIDITY should be maintained at 40% to 70%.  Deciduous species need less humidity
when dormant.  Brisk air circulation will help prevent damage to leaves by leaf spot fungi.

FERTILIZER should be applied regularly and heavily when plants are actively growing.  A
high nitrogen formulation (30-10-10) is recommended during active growth (usually
summer); some growers top-dress the potting medium with blood meal as new
pseudobulbs form. In fall, or as growths mature and pseudobulbs are produced, fertilizer
is reduced and/or switched to a high~phosphorus (10-30-20) formulation to stimulate flower
production.

POTTING is best when new growth starts, usually in spring.  A fine-grade potting medium
is often used; fir bark and perlite (3:1) is a common, well-draining mix.  When repotting,
split plants into no less than two bulbs per pot and choose a pot to allow for two years of
growth. The bottom one quarter to one third of the pot should be filled with drainage
material, either broken crock, rocks, or Styrofoam "peanuts."  The plant should be
positioned in the pot so that the newest growths are farthest away from the edge of the pot,
allowing the maximum number of new growths without crowding the pot.  Spread the roots
over a cone of potting medium and fill in around the roots with potting medium to the
junction of the roots and the pseudobulbs. Firm the medium well around the roots by
applying pressure.  Keep humidity high and the potting medium on the dry side until new
roots form.  A vitamin B1 compound may help establish newly potted plants.