Archive-name: pet-ferret-faq/general Last-modified: 2 June 1994 Version: 1.2 FERRET FAQ -- GENERAL INFORMATION Compiled and edited by Pamela Greene (pgreene@optics.rochester.edu) Additions, corrections, and suggestions for this file are welcomed! This document is copyright 1994 by Pamela L. Greene. See section 0.5 for authorship information and redistribution rights. In short, you can give it away, but you can't charge for it. Please note: I am not a ferret expert, and I did not write, nor did I independently verify, all the information in this file. I have done my best to include only accurate and useful information, but I cannot guarantee that what is contained in this file, whether written by me or by one of the contributors, is correct, or even that following the advice herein won't be harmful to you or your ferret in some way. For advice from an expert, you may wish to consult one of several books available, or, especially in the case of a suspected medical problem, a veterinarian who is familiar with the treatment of ferrets. ------------------------------ Subject: CONTENTS 0. *** About this FAQ *** <0.1> Notes on formatting <0.2> Where to get this file <0.3> Goal of this FAQ <0.4> Credits and editor's notes <0.5> Copyright and redistribution information 1. *** Introduction to ferrets *** <1.1> What are ferrets? Should I get one? What's good and bad about them as pets? <1.2> Are ferrets wild animals? Why are there ferret permits and FFZs? <1.3> What's the average ferret lifespan? <1.4> I'm allergic to cats. Will I be allergic to ferrets? <1.5> What's this I hear about ferrets attacking babies? 2. *** Getting a pet ferret *** <2.1> Which color is the best? Male or a female? What age? <2.2> How many should I get? All at once, or one at a time? <2.3> Do I need a license or permit? How do I find out? <2.4> Where can I get a pet ferret? How do I choose a "good" one? <2.5> What do these little blue dots in my kit's ear mean? What's the deal with Marshall Farms? <2.6> I just got another ferret. How can I introduce him/her to my old one(s) with the least trouble? <2.7> How can I introduce my ferret to my (dog/cat/bird/fish/ rabbit/etc.) with the least trouble? 3. *** Things you'll need *** <3.1> What will I need to take care of my new ferret? <3.2> Do I need a cage? How should I set it up? <3.3> The pet store uses wood shavings as bedding. Should I? <3.4> What should I feed my ferret? <3.5> Should I give my ferret any supplements? <3.6> What are good treats? <3.7> What kind of litter should I use? <3.8> What kind of collar/bell/tag should I use? <3.9> Any suggestions on toys? 4. *** Basic ferret care and training *** <4.1> How can I best ferretproof my home? <4.2> What vaccinations will my ferret need, and when? <4.3> Do I need to spay/neuter my pet? How about descenting? Declawing? <4.4> How do I train my pet not to nip? <4.5> I'm having problems litter-training my ferret. What should I be doing? <4.6> Any suggestions on bathing, cleaning ears, and clipping nails? <4.7> Can I teach my ferret tricks? How? <4.8> Do ferrets travel well? 5. *** Things ferrets say and do *** <5.1> Ferrets don't purr, so how do I know if mine likes something? <5.2> My ferret trembles a lot. Is that normal? <5.3> Help! My ferret is going bald! <5.4> Is he really just asleep? <5.5> What does such-and-such a noise mean? <5.6> What games do ferrets like to play? <5.7> What else should I probably not worry about? 6. *** Problems to watch for and related information *** <6.1> What warning signs of disease should I watch for? <6.2> What are some of the more common diseases in ferrets? <6.3> How did I get fleas in my home? How can I get rid of them? 7. *** Where to get more information *** <7.1> How can I find a ferret breeder/contact/shelter in my area? <7.2> How do I join the Ferret Mailing list? <7.3> Is there any other information available on-line? <7.4> What are some of the books available? 8. *** Revision history of this file *** - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 0. *** About this FAQ *** ------------------------------ Subject: <0.1> Notes on formatting The answers in this file are given in a "digest format" which should make it easier for you to scan through it for the information you want. Each question begins with a line of hyphens, followed by its number and the question itself, as given in the Table of Contents above. In many newsreaders, including rn, trn, and strn, you can jump from one question to the next by hitting CONTROL-G. You can also look for a particular answer by searching for its number or for words from the question. Cross-references to other questions are in square brackets; for example, [1.2] means that more information may be found in section 1.2. ------------------------------ Subject: <0.2> Where to get this file This FAQ is posted monthly to the rec.pets and news.answers newsgroups. It is available by anonymous FTP: ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet/news.answers/pet-ferret-faq/general (that is, ftp to rtfm.mit.edu and get the indicated file). If you do not have access to FTP, you can request the file by mail by sending a message to listserv@cunyvm.cuny.edu with the single line (in the body of the message): GET FERRET ANSWERS You can also "subscribe" to the FAQ, so that you receive a new copy each time it is updated. Send a message to listserv@cunyvm.cuny.edu with the line: AFD ADD FERRET ANSWERS If all else fails, send me (pgreene@optics.rochester.edu) email and I'll send you a copy. ------------------------------ Subject: <0.3> Goal of this FAQ A number of people have begun work on comprehensive discussions of all sorts of ferret behavior, medical problems, and advice. This FAQ is not intended to replace any of those. However, there seems to be a need for an "intro" FAQ which covers many of the basic questions in a fairly light way. That is, this is intended to be a FAQ in the purest sense of the term: a document to answer questions which keep coming up in the newsgroups and Ferret Mailing List, rather than a comprehensive guide to ferret ownership. If you're relatively new to ferrets, the idea is that you'll read this guide (or one like it) first, then go on to the more detailed guides. ------------------------------ Subject: <0.4> Credits Contributions of individual respondents are marked as such and indented. Other sections were either written by me (Pamela Greene [pgreene@optics.rochester.edu]) or compiled from a number of contributions. Many thanks to the following people who contributed responses, comments, and corrections: Sukie Crandall, Todd Cromwell, Ann Davis, James Garriss, Nancy Hartman, Arlyn Kerr, Chris Lewis, Linda Mooring, Rochelle Newman, Marilee Warner, and special thanks to Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM for all his efforts on behalf of the members of the Ferret Mailing List and all "ferret friends". ------------------------------ Subject: <0.5> Copyright and redistribution information This compilation is copyright 1994 by Pamela L. Greene. It may be freely distributed by electronic, paper, or other means, provided that it is distributed in its entirety, including this notice, and that no fee is charged apart from the actual costs of distribution. (For-profit service providers such as Compuserve and America Online are granted permission to distribute the file provided that no additional fee beyond standard connection-time charges is levied.) Those portions of this file written by others remain the property of their respective authors. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 1. *** Introduction to ferrets *** ------------------------------ Subject: <1.1> What are ferrets? Should I get one? What's good and bad about them as pets? Ferrets are domestic animals, cousins of weasels, skunks and otters. They are friendly and make excellent pets. If you've never met one before, the easiest way to think of them is somewhere between cats and dogs in personality, but rather smaller. Some are cuddly, others more independent; they vary a lot, just like other pets. Ferrets are a lot of fun. They are very playful, with each other and with you, and they don't lose that playfulness as they get older. A ferret -- or better, two or more -- can be a very entertaining companion. They are smarter than cats and dogs, or at least they act it. They are also very inquisitive and remarkably determined, which is part of their charm but can also be a bit of a bother. They can be trained to use a litter box and to do tricks, and most of them love to go places with you, riding on a shoulder or in a bag. They sleep a lot, and they don't particularly mind staying in small places (a cage, for instance, or a shoulder bag) temporarily, although they need to run around and play for at least a couple of hours a day. A "single" ferret won't be terribly lonely, although the fun of watching two or three playing together is easily worth the small extra trouble [2.2]. Ferrets have lots of good points as pets, but there are some negatives as well. Like kittens and puppies, they require a fair amount of care and training at first [4.4, 4.5]. Although most ferrets get along reasonably well with cats and dogs, it's not guaranteed, so if you have large, aggressive pets (particularly dogs of breeds commonly used for hunting), keep that in mind. Likewise, small children and ferrets are both very excitable, and the combination might be too much [1.5]. Finally, the importance of ferretproofing must be emphasized. Ferrets are less destructive than cats, but they love to get into EVERYTHING, so if you keep them loose you'll need to make sure they can't hurt themselves or your possessions [4.1]. They love to steal small (and not so small!) objects and stash them under chairs and behind furniture. They like to chew on spongy, springy things, which must be kept out of reach or they'll swallow bits. Accessible boxes, bags, and trash cans will be crawled in, and houseplants within reach are liable to lose all their dirt to joyful digging. Finally, many ferrets tend to scratch at the carpet. Naturally, these traits vary from one ferret to another, but they're all pretty common. If you're not willing to take the necessary time to protect your property and your pet, a ferret may not be for you. ------------------------------ Subject: <1.2> Are ferrets wild animals? Why are there ferret permits and FFZs? Domestic pet ferrets, Mustela putorius furo, are not wild animals. They were first domesticated by the Egyptians around 3000 B.C. If yours got free it would not survive; it would likely die of dehydration or starvation within a few days. Unlike cats and dogs, ferrets aren't even large enough to push over garbage cans and scavenge. In the past, and some still today, domestic ferrets were used as hunting animals to catch rabbits and rodents. The ferrets weren't supposed to kill the prey, they just chased them out of their holes and the farmers (hunters) killed them. This practice is now illegal in most, if not all, of the U.S. and Canada. Most of the misconceptions regarding domestic ferrets probably come from confusing them with their cousins the North American Black-Footed Ferrets, Mustela nigripes. Black-footed ferrets (BFFs) are wild remote relatives of the domestic ferret. They live mainly in Wyoming and neighboring states, and they are an endangered species. However, despite quite similar appearances, the BFF is very unlikely to be an ancestor of the domestic ferret, since the latter were first domesticated in Egypt and only brought to North America comparatively recently. Domestic ferrets are generally believed to be descended from the European polecat. Some people have also compared, or confused, domestic ferrets with weasels, which is rather like comparing a pet dog to a bear; or with mongooses, which is more like comparing a cat and a squirrel. Neither gives much useful information. States, counties, and municipalities outlaw or restrict ferrets for a variety of reasons, but by far the most common is the mistaken belief that they're wild animals and should be treated in the same way as squirrels or raccoons. In the face of overwhelming evidence, many of these areas are being persuaded to change their outdated regulations [2.3]. ------------------------------ Subject: <1.3> What's the average ferret lifespan? Ferrets live an average of 6-10 years, barring accidents. ------------------------------ Subject: <1.4> I'm allergic to cats. Will I be allergic to ferrets? There's really no way to tell. You could be highly allergic to some other animal and have no problems at all with ferrets. If you think you might be allergic, visit a pet store, breeder or friend who has one and check. I've lost the note, but one person wrote me to say she (he?) was allergic only to intact males, so you may want to try contact with females or neutered males as well. Also note that some people are allergic to the perfumes pet stores often put on animals, but not to the animals themselves. ------------------------------ Subject: <1.5> What's this I hear about ferrets attacking babies? There are a lot of stories floating around about this, some more true than others. Ferrets are unfamiliar to most people, so it's easier for them to make sweeping statements on the basis of a tiny amount of information. Some of the reports are simply rumor, or the result of confusing another animal with a ferret. Others are based in fact, but omit important information (for instance, that the child and pets had clearly been neglected or abused prior to the attack). Still others are unfortunately true. However, plenty of children have been attacked and even killed by dogs and cats. The number of people injured by ferrets each year is a tiny fraction of the number wounded or killed by dogs. People don't claim that all dogs and cats are too dangerous for pets, but rather that more responsible parenting and pet ownership is needed. It is definitely necessary to monitor interactions between young children and ANY pets closely, and to make sure children know the proper way to handle pets. A living creature needs, and deserves, to be treated with more care than a toy. Ferrets in particular love to pounce and wrestle when they play, which may frighten children, and children tend to play rather roughly, which may prompt a more vigorous response from an active ferret than from a typical cat. According to Chris Lewis, moderator of the Ferret Mailing List [7.2]: The FML has carried confirmed reports of two, possibly three, cases where an animal identified as a "ferret" has seriously injured, and in one case, I believe, killed, infants. One in the UK, and one or two in the US. In none of these cases has it been proven that the animal was a ferret - particularly in the UK, it is quite possible that the animal was actually an European polecat which are raised for fur and sometimes for hunting (in the UK). And in each case gross child and animal abuse is well documented. But it's important to remember, that even the most pessimistic statistics on ferrets show that a ferret is about a thousand times *less* likely to cause injury than a dog. Indeed, every year there are hundreds of very serious or fatal dog attacks in the US alone. Worst case statistics show approximately 12 ferret attacks ever recorded in the US. Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, adds: I can say from personal experience that there are many, many more bite incidents with the household dog or cat, and that either of these species tend to do a lot more damage. I have seen children require over a hundred facial stitches from getting between the dog and its food, but never anything like this with a ferret. But I've also been nailed by my share of ferrets too. Personally, I don't recommend ferrets for people with children under 6 or 7 - either the child or the ferret ends up getting hurt. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 2. *** Getting a pet ferret *** ------------------------------ Subject: <2.1> Which color is the best? Male or female? What age? As with people, a ferret's inherent personality is more important than color or gender. Nevertheless, there is some thought that cinnamon ferrets tend to be more docile than other colors, probably because it's a recent addition to the list of colors, so most of them have been bred from long-time pet stock. Basically, though, choose the color according to your own preference. There's no consistent personality difference between a (neutered) male and a female. Males are generally considerably larger, around 18" and 3-5 pounds (in the US; European-bred ferrets differ a bit) compared to 15" and 1-3 pounds for females. Males' heads are usually wider, which can give them a more cat-like appearance. If you're getting an unneutered ferret, bear in mind that the cost to spay a female can be higher than the cost to neuter a male. (Unless you're specifically planning to breed them, you will NEED to "alter" your pets [4.3].) There are two contradictory opinions regarding what age ferret is best for a new owner. Adults tend to be a bit calmer and may already be litter- and nip- trained [4.4, 4.5], but they are larger and may have acquired bad habits, too. Kits are very cute, and their small size and (for a young kit) sleepiness can be less intimidating for a new owner, but they require a little more care and training and will become very active before too long. ------------------------------ Subject: <2.2> How many should I get? All at once, or one at a time? Ferrets don't need other ferrets to be happy, but if you won't be around much, two or more will keep each other company. They'll also be more fun, but more responsibility. Many people have three, five or more ferrets, which may be more fun than you can take. :-) I'd recommend getting one at first, so you can get to know it, and it you. There's some advantage to only having to train one at a time, too. I'd suggest at least a few months between them, if you're going to get several, although it's certainly not necessary. If you decide you want more later, you can always get another; they usually get along just fine [2.6]. There's no problem mixing (neutered) ferrets of either gender in any combination. ------------------------------ Subject: <2.3> Do I need a license or permit? How do I find out? Depending on where you live, ferrets may be completely unregulated, require a license to breed but not to own, require a permit to own, or be entirely illegal. This varies by state, county, and city. At the moment, the states of California, Massachusetts, Michigan and Hawaii are FFZs (ferret-free zones; i.e., places where ferrets are illegal), as are the District of Columbia, New York City, St. Paul (MN), Salt Lake City (UT), and various other towns and counties throughout the U.S. and Canada. This list is by no means complete, so check locally before you get a ferret. You can find out about your town by calling the local Wildlife Department or Fish and Game Department, the humane society, or veterinarians (recommended in that order). Note that some pet stores in FFZs sell ferrets anyway, so the presence of one in your corner store may not be any indication of their legality, and I wouldn't necessarily trust the pet store to be honest about local laws. ------------------------------ Subject: <2.4> Where can I get a pet ferret? How do I choose a "good" one? Many pet stores have ferrets, and there are often ads in the newspaper from small breeders [7.1] with kits to sell or from people who want to sell older ferrets. In any case, look for bright, clear eyes, healthy skin and whiskers, soft coat, and a curious, alert attitude. You can't tell just how a kit's colorings will turn out, but if you watch and handle a group for a while you can tell a surprising amount about their personalities. Young kits will generally be pretty sleepy and uncoordinated, but they'll grow out of that soon enough. You can often find "rescue" ferrets at the local animal shelter, and there are shelters specifically for ferrets scattered around the country as well [7.1]. This may not be the best choice for a new owner, though, since rescue ferrets may have health or behavioral problems. (Many of them are healthy and loving, but if you've never dealt with any ferrets before you may not want to take the chance.) ------------------------------ Subject: <2.5> What do these little blue dots in my kit's ear mean? What's the deal with Marshall Farms? If your ferret has two blue dots tattooed in his right ear, chances are he's from Marshall Farms, a large breeder located in Western New York. Marshall Farms (MF) has been the subject of some controversy because they sell ferrets to laboratories as well as for pets. Some people feel that MF's efforts to produce genetically stable ferrets for lab use has resulted in their pets being genetically less healthy, but this has not been conclusively established. Several other breeders also mark dots in their kits' ears, so a tattooed ferret may not be from MF. Regardless, it is the opinion of most ferret lovers that Marshall Farms ferrets are no less deserving of good homes and love than their unmarked kin, whatever your opinions about the establishment that bred them. ------------------------------ Subject: <2.6> I just got another ferret. How can I introduce him/her to my old one(s) with the least trouble? Ferret play can look pretty rough, especially the kinds of dominance "arguments" an established ferret is likely to have with a new one. Generally ferrets won't actually injure each other, but careful supervision is required at first. To prevent biting, you can try spraying Bitter Apple [3.1] on the new ferret. Keeping the new ferret separated, but in sight/smell of the old one (e.g., in a neighboring cage) can help speed familiarity, as can putting the new pet in the old one's cage or sleeping area while the other one's not there. Within a week or two they should get along all right and can share a cage, food dish, and water bottle. Of course, extreme cases do exist, but the longest I've read about new-ferret problems lasting is three months. ------------------------------ Subject: <2.7> How can I introduce my ferret to my (dog/cat/bird/ fish/rabbit/etc.) with the least trouble? Most ferrets don't get along with birds, fish, rabbits, rodents, lizards, and the like, though there are some exceptions. For a dog or cat, introduce them SLOWLY. For the first week or so, hold both animals and just let them smell each other a few times a day. Over the next week or two, gradually give each animal a bit more freedom, watching them closely, until they're used to each other. Once you're convinced that they're used to each other and get along all right, let them interact freely, but supervise them for a while to be sure. It's generally believed that ferrets get along with cats better if they're introduced when the cat is still a kitten and is more willing to play. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 3. *** Things you'll need *** ------------------------------ Subject: <3.1> What will I need to take care of my new ferret? You will need: - ferret food [3.4] - a food dish (one hard to tip) - a water dish (one hard to tip) or water bottle (see below) - litter boxes (see below) - litter [3.7] - bedding [3.2, 3.3] - a cage [3.2] - ferret shampoo (baby shampoo works fine too) - a collar and a little bell [3.8] - pet claw clippers (large human-nail clippers work fine too) - toys (ferretproofed) [3.9] - a veterinarian, preferably one familiar with ferrets - Linatone or Ferretone, if you can find them (see below and [3.5]) - Bitter Apple or something similar (see below) - a box or basket to be a bedroom [3.2] - a harness and leash (optional) (see below) Ferretone and Linatone are similar vitamin supplements [3.5] that nearly every ferret loves [3.6]. Bitter Apple is a bad-tasting liquid or paste intended to stop pets from chewing things. You may want an H-type harness and a leash, and you will almost certainly need more than one litter pan, particularly if you have a large home. I've found a water bottle to be much more convenient than a water dish, since ferrets seem to love to play in, and tip over, water bowls. Small-size cat litter pans work fine, and for a travel cage or shoulder bag you can use a Rubbermaid-type plastic container intended for bread or ice cream (about 6 X 9 X 5 inches). Make sure the sides of the pan are at least 4 inches high, since ferrets habitually back into corners to deposit their wastes and you don't want messes over the sides of the pan. However, one side of the pan should be no more than an inch or two high, so your ferret can get in and out easily. This is especially true for a young kit. ------------------------------ Subject: <3.2> Do I need a cage? How should I set it up? Many people keep their ferrets in a cage or very well-ferretproofed [4.1] room whenever they can't be supervised. This drastically reduces the risks of digestive-tract blockages from swallowing indigestible objects [6.1, 6.2], injury, and escape. However, even if you plan to let your ferrets have the run of the house at all times, you'll want a cage at first for training [4.4, 4.5] as well as for temporary use. Aquarium tanks have enjoyed a certain popularity as ferret cages, but I think overall wire-mesh cages are better. Tanks are easier to clean, but they don't provide much ventilation at the bottom, and your ferret may feel somewhat isolated from whatever's going on in the room. Besides, a nice, big aquarium isn't exactly cheap. If you plan to keep your ferret caged whenever you're not home, and you'll be gone most of the day, a generous cage size is about 2 X 3 feet and 2 feet high (60 X 100 X 60 cm). A second or third ferret could share that size cage. If you'll only be using the cage temporarily, such as when you're vacuuming or taking your pet on a vacation [4.8], 1 X 2 X 1 feet (30 X 60 X 30 cm) is sufficient for one or two ferrets, perhaps three. For trips around town [4.8], a shoulder or duffel bag equipped with a litter pan and mesh window works well. In the cage, you'll want some sort of "bedroom" for your pet. A ferret won't be very happy sleeping on the open floor of a cage, even on (or, more likely, under) a towel, but any small cardboard box or basket works well as a bedroom. Old towels make excellent bedding [3.3], as long as they aren't too easily chewed to bits. Other than food, water, a litter pan, bedding, and a bedroom, what you put in your ferret's cage is largely up to you. Hammocks made from old jeans or shirts and a set of metal eyelets are very popular for both napping and playing, and ramps, ledges, tunnels, and toys [3.9] will also be enjoyed. Just be sure nothing you put in your ferret's cage could hurt him, whether by catching a toe, being swallowed, or some other way. Also be sure your cage door fastens securely, perhaps even with a small lock, because ferrets can be very determined and rather intelligent escape artists. ------------------------------ Subject: <3.3> The pet store uses wood shavings as bedding. Should I? In short, no. Many pet stores and some breeders use cedar or pine shavings as bedding/cage lining for their ferrets, but it is not recommended. Cedar in particular has been associated with allergies and respiratory problems in various animals, including, for example, humans and rabbits, but pine and other woods also produce a fair amount of dust and such which isn't very good to breathe. Why take the chance? Furthermore, wood shavings are completely unnecessary. Ferrets are more like cats than hamsters: they'll be quite happy with a clean towel or old T-shirt placed in a small "bedroom box" or basket for sleeping. Sure, some pet stores and breeders use shavings, but they don't really have the option of using towels. ------------------------------ Subject: <3.4> What should I feed my ferret? Most people feed their ferrets high-quality cat food, such as Iams, Science Diet, or ProPlan. High-quality food may cost a bit more, but your pet will eat a lot less and be much healthier. Besides, we've found that an 8-pound bag of dry food (usually $10-$15) lasts two ferrets a few months, so the cost of feeding them even high-quality food is not very great. The key ingredient is protein, specifically animal protein, since ferrets' short digestive cycles prevent them from getting enough sustenance from vegetable proteins. The food needs to have at least 32% protein, and animal protein should be listed first in the ingredients. Because of this protein requirement, ferrets up to three or four years old should get kitten or "growth" foods. Older ferrets can have kidney problems from too much protein, though, so they should be switched to the cat versions. Soft cat food is not good for ferrets, partly because it generally contains much less protein than the dry kind and partly because it isn't hard enough to rub plaque off their teeth and can lead to tooth decay. However, very young kits and those recovering from illness or surgery may need their food moistened with water for a week or two. Note that moistened food spoils much more quickly than the same food left dry, so dump out leftovers every day. Dog food is NOT acceptable, as it lacks some nutrients ferrets (and cats) need. Among other things, ferrets and cats both need taurine, which (according to the Iams label) is found naturally in poultry; many cat and ferret foods supplement it as well. Several kinds of food meant specifically for ferrets also exist, including Purina Ferret Chow and Kaytee Ferret Food. Ferrets do just fine on cat food, though, and in my experience they like it better than ferret food. Unless your ferret is overweight, you can just keep her bowl full and let her eat as much as she wants. In general, feeding your pet a variety of foods, rather than just one brand, is probably a good idea. Ferrets are known to be finicky eaters, and if the brand you've been using is suddenly unavailable, you may run into problems if it's all your pets will recognize as edible. To switch from brand A to brand B, start mixing them before you run out of A. Add B a little at a time until they're getting half each, then phase out A. (See questions [3.5] and [3.6] for comments on supplements, fruits, vegetables, and treats.) ------------------------------ Subject: <3.5> Should I give my ferret any supplements? Ferretone and Linatone are two popular vitamin supplements. They are also one of the most common treats, since nearly every ferret loves them. They're very similar and can be used interchangeably, although their exact composition is a bit different. The problem is, both of these contain vitamin A, which can be very harmful or even fatal in excess. No more than a few drops of either Ferretone or Linatone a day is recommended, and it's not thought to be necessary to give them any at all if you're using a good food. Signs of vitamin A overdose include hair loss and a dull coat. Similarly, many people give their ferrets a small amount of a cat hairball remedy such as Laxatone or Petromalt on a regular basis. This can help them pass the styrofoam, rubber bands, and such that they seem to love to eat, as well as helping to prevent hairballs from fur swallowed during grooming. Even better, most ferrets seem to think of this as a wonderful treat, too. As with all treats and supplements, give them only in moderation; you can estimate how much by taking the recommended cat dosage and adjusting for ferrets' smaller weights. ------------------------------ Subject: <3.6> What are good treats? Most ferrets also enjoy some fruits and vegetables. Although they're not necessary for good nutrition if you're feeding your pets a high-quality cat food, small amounts of these won't hurt. Just be sure you don't fill your ferret up on fruit, since he'll need to eat his regular food to get the required protein. Too much of nearly anything can be harmful, so try to vary your treats. Although most ferrets love milk and ice cream, they shouldn't be allowed to have much. This is especially true for young kits, since the lactose in cow's milk gives ferrets diarrhea, which can easily cause them to become dehydrated. I'm told that goat's milk, available in some pet stores, is okay, but I haven't seen any verification of this. Too much fiber can also give ferrets diarrhea, so limit raisins, bananas, prunes, oatmeal, apples, and anything with bran in it. Sugary treats aren't good for them either, since they can cause to dental problems and may also contribute to the development of diabetes. Be very careful with chocolate. Most ferrets like it, but the xanthines found in it are strong stimulants and can be dangerous to them. It's not recommended as a treat. Some popular suggestions: a slice of banana (mashed, so it's more digestible), raisins, bits of pear, peppermint (small licks), freeze-dried liver (sold as cat treats), Pounce cat treats, puffed rice cakes, green beans, wheat crackers... Try feeding your ferret pretty much anything, in small pieces. You never know what yours will consider a fabulous treat. I've heard of ferrets going wild for everything from spaghetti to blueberries. ------------------------------ Subject: <3.7> What kind of litter should I use? Some people have had problems with the clumping varieties of litter, due to some ferrets' habits of sniffing at their litter corners and dragging their rumps across the litter when done using it. The litter can get into their noses or rectums, where it clumps and causes problems. You may not want to take the chance. Likewise, cedar shavings are not recommended, for the same reasons that they don't make good bedding [3.3]. Other than that, any kind of litter meant for cats is okay for ferrets. You and your ferret may prefer one to another, since they all control or cover odors differently, track more or less dust, cost more or less, and so forth. Some people even use alfalfa pellets (rabbit food), which is often cheaper than cat litter but generally doesn't cover odor as well. If your pet is used to one and you switch, it may take a while for him to connect the scent of the new litter with where he's supposed to go. ------------------------------ Subject: <3.8> What kind of collar/bell/tag should I use? Depending on your ferret, either a nylon kitten collar, a thin, flat leather puppy collar, or a piece of ball chain will work well. The problem you may run into for a nylon collar is that some ferrets will scratch at it, which pulls the nylon threads and can tighten the collar dangerously. For either of the collars, you may need to make an extra hole, then trim off the extra length and (for nylon) melt the end together. Be sure to leave enough to go through the little ring after it's buckled. For the ball chain (the kind made for light-pulls or to lift the stopper in a toilet), just snip it to the proper length. We've never had any problems with either of our ferrets getting hurt by catching their collars in anything, but we make sure to leave them loose enough that the furry snakes can slip out if they happen to get caught. In fact, the easiest way we've found to get the collars on is to fasten them, then shove them over the ferrets' heads while occupying them with Ferretone. A small cat bell and small-size plastic tag have worked well for us on a kit as young as 9 weeks. I strongly suggest getting the S-shaped hook for the tag rather than the split ring, since the rings have a tendency to loosen. Twice one of our ferrets got hers caught in a sweater or blanket -- which both frightened her and unraveled the item she was frantically rolling in before she pulled out of the collar. For a nylon or leather collar, you'll probably want to poke the S-hook directly through the collar and put the bell and tag on the same hook, though, since attaching them to the ring on the collar makes them hang down far enough to drag on the ground. Neither of our slinkies seems to mind wearing a collar, although the first time we put it on our older pet she spent 15 minutes trying to convince us she was dying and then the next hour playing with the jingly toy that followed her wherever she went. In short, I strongly recommend tags and bells for all ferrets. Ours have never gotten out, but even just around the house it gives enormous peace of mind to be able to tell where they are! ------------------------------ Subject: <3.9> Any suggestions on toys? Cat toys work well for ferrets, though you need to be sure they don't have any small, removable parts or foam stuffing [6.2]. Most ferrets are rather harder on toys than a cat would be, so choose accordingly. Plastic balls, with or without bells, work well if they are not easily broken or swallowed (the little "webbed" ones break too easily). Soft vinyl rubber is okay, but not the spongy kind -- it's too easily shredded and swallowed. For hard rubber toys, be sure they can't get stuck in your ferret's mouth, and take them away when they start to crack. Cat squeaky toys are good if they're tough enough to stand up to chewing and easily squeaked. Catnip won't hurt ferrets, but it doesn't affect them like it does cats. Most ferrets enjoy playing in a hammock made from a piece of cloth and some metal eyelets, and the leg from an old pair of jeans will be fun to crawl through or nap in. For other toys, try umbrellas, bathrobe belts, tennis balls, golf balls, large unshelled nuts (rinsed to wash off any pesticides), or old socks with bells rolled up in them. Plastic shopping bags are popular, but watch to be sure your pets don't suffocate or eat the plastic. Carpet-roll tubes and tunnels made of plastic pipe are popular too. An excellent, inexpensive toy is a piece of plastic dryer hose about 4" (10 cm) in diameter. Wrap any loose wire ends. Be sure that your real dryer hose is out of reach (or get a metal one), since you're showing your pets that dryer hoses are great fun to crawl through. No matter what you decide your ferret's toys are, he or she will almost undoubtedly choose some household items you never expected, as well. Keep anything that would be damaged with a little chewing, or that might hurt your pet, well out of reach. Unfortunately, digging up houseplants is also enormous fun to a ferret; see question [4.1] for advice on preventing this. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 4. *** Basic ferret care and training *** ------------------------------ Subject: <4.1> How can I best ferretproof my home? Ferretproofing a home basically involves blocking off all the holes around your baseboards, removing anything spongy from reach, moving fragile items out of the way, and making sure your closets and cabinets close securely. Ferrets love to worm their way into any little hole (as small as 2 X 2 inches, or smaller for kits and some adults), which can be very bad if the hole in question is under a refrigerator or other appliance, into a wall, or outside. Crawl around on your stomach to look for holes near the floor, especially in the kitchen and laundry area. Even holes inside cabinets (which are particularly common in apartments, where plumbers are often rather sloppy) should be blocked, just in case. Also watch out for heaters or furnace ducts. You can block openings with wood or wire mesh, and at least one Ferret Mailing List recipient had good luck with aluminum foil, since most ferrets don't like to chew it. Many ferrets are good climbers and jumpers. They can get onto a sofa, into a trash can, onto the third shelf of a set of bookcases, into a bathtub, into the opening on the back of a stereo speaker, or over the gate you thought would keep them in the spare room (a two-foot barrier will probably do the job). They can also open cabinets, unzip backpacks, and climb into some drawers from underneath. Apart from obvious dangers such as electrical cords (which ferrets don't, generally, like to chew) and bottles of household cleaners and chemicals (which they do like to drink), be particularly careful with sponges, erasers, shoe insoles, Silly Putty, foam rubber (even inside a cushion or mattress), styrofoam, insulation, rubber door stoppers, and anything else spongy or springy. Ferrets love to chew on that kind of thing, and swallowed bits can cause intestinal blockages [6.2]. Also be aware that ferrets like to dig in and possibly chew on houseplants, and some common ones are quite poisonous. Plants can be protected from digging (but not chewing) by putting large rocks or metal mesh over the tops of their pots. If your ferret claws at the carpet, try putting down a piece of plastic carpet protector. Finally, once your home is done, bear in mind that your couch cushions and throw rugs may be hiding napping ferrets. Look before you sit! ------------------------------ Subject: <4.2> What vaccinations will my ferret need, and when? According to Nancy Hartman: IMRAB rabies vaccine - yearly, starting at about 6 months old. (This is the same rabies vaccine as is used for dogs and cats; your vet should have it on hand.) Fervac-D or Fromm-D canine distemper vaccine - see below. (Fervac-D is ferret specific, so many vets may not carry it. Fromm-D is commonly used for dogs.) Kits should be vaccinated at 8 weeks, 11 weeks, and 14 weeks. But they should have at *least* a series of two shots, three weeks apart, with the last one when the ferret is older than 14 weeks. Then 1 booster shot yearly. Note: although rabies is the more publicized of the two, the distemper shot is MUCH more important for your ferret's health. [If you can't get the ferret-specific distemper vaccine, use a vaccine for canine distemper which is a KILLED VIRUS and was NOT cultured in ferret tissue.] Adult ferrets who have never been vaccinated, the shots are out of date, or the ferret is of unknown vaccination status, should receive a series of two [distemper] vaccinations, three weeks apart, then booster shot yearly Also be advised that most states do not recognize the rabies vaccine for ferrets. The "official" studies on shedding time have yet to be done. So, even if vaccinated, your ferret will be destroyed if someone reports to the authorities that they were bitten (scratched, looked at cross-eyed) by him/her. BUT, the vaccination will most likely keep the person from reporting the ferret in the first place. And, it will protect your ferrets from getting rabies on the chance that they are bitten by a rabid animal. Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, adds: An extra distemper shot, in cases where a vaccination history is not known, will not hurt a ferret. Vaccinations is one area in which it is better to be safe than sorry. ------------------------------ Subject: <4.3> Do I need to spay/neuter my pet? How about descenting? Declawing? Ferrets intended as pets must be neutered or spayed. Neutering drastically reduces the odor of a male, prevents him from marking his territory with smelly slime, and makes him less aggressive (males in season may kill other ferrets, even females). Spaying saves a female's life, since once she goes into heat she will need to be bred or she will almost certainly die of anemia. However, many people disagree with the common practice of performing the surgery at a very early age, and prefer to wait until the ferret is at least six months old. It should be done before the first time the ferret would go into heat, but apart from that there's no rush. There's debate about whether descenting ferrets is necessary or useful, and some belief that it's harmful. It's bad for a ferret's health to descent it before 6 or 7 weeks of age, and it may be somewhat harmful when done at any age. Many people feel that the procedure accomplishes no purpose; that is, that neutered ferrets who aren't spraying smell the same whether or not they've been descented. Note that, like a skunk, a ferret will use its scent if it's greatly distressed or feeling amorous, but ferrets can't spray their scent as effectively as a skunk. Their scent also isn't as bad as a skunk's, and I'm told it dissipates in 15 minutes or so. Most pet stores sell neutered and descented kits. Many breeders sell kits which have been neutered but not descented. Ferrets can't be declawed; it would cripple them. ------------------------------ Subject: <4.4> How do I train my pet not to nip? Like kittens and puppies, ferret kits must be taught not to nip. A ferret which has been bred to be a pet shouldn't be vicious or bite, but ferret play does include mock combat, and young ones won't know how hard they can put their teeth on you without hurting you. A playing ferret may run at you with his mouth open or even put his teeth on your hand, but if he presses down hard enough to hurt, you need to discipline him. Just remember, ferrets aren't malicious, they just need to learn what behavior is acceptable. Positive reinforcement (giving treats [3.6]) generally works better than punishment. Similarly, don't set the ferret down when he struggles and nips -- you'll be teaching him that that's the way to get what he wants. Flicking the ferret's nose while his teeth are on you is a pretty popular form of discipline; but if it doesn't work, you'll end up doing it too often, which will make your ferret associate bad things with you. There are also several alternatives: - Confining the misbehaving ferret to a cage [3.2] and ignoring him for a few minutes can be effective, especially if there's another ferret wandering around conspicuously having fun. - You can cover your hands with Bitter Apple, either the spray or the paste, so nipping tastes bad. - Those ferrets who go limp when scruffed generally hate it. A more extreme measure would be to gently shake the ferret while he's hanging in midair. You can also cover his face with your hand, which he probably won't like. ------------------------------ Subject: <4.5> I'm having problems litter-training my ferret. What should I be doing? Start your ferret out in a small area, perhaps his cage [3.2], and expand his space gradually as he becomes better trained. Keep a little dirty litter in his pan at first, to mark it as a bathroom and to deter him from digging in it. Don't let it get too dirty, though; some ferrets can be pretty finicky about their pans. Whenever you notice your ferret backing into a pan, give him a little treat [3.6] and lots of praise as he comes out. Even if he didn't actually use it, it'll still reinforce the idea. Ferrets generally use their pans within fifteen minutes of waking up, so don't let yours out of his cage until he at least sniffs the pan to show he's thought about it. When he's out running around for playtime, keep a close eye on him, and put him in his litter pan every half hour or so, or whenever you see him "pick up a magazine and start to back into a corner" (as one FML subscriber put it). Positive reinforcement (treats and praise) are usually much more effective than any punishment, but if you need one, use cage time, and don't let him out until he backs into the pan. If your ferret has a favorite corner, you have two choices. You could put a pan (or newspaper, if it's a tight spot) in it; ferrets have short legs and attention spans, so you'll probably need several pans around your home anyway. Otherwise, you can try putting a crumpled towel in the corner, making it look more like a potential napping spot than a latrine. "Accident" corners should be cleaned with bleach or another bad-smelling disinfectant (don't let your ferret onto it 'till it dries!), specifically so they don't continue to smell like ferret bathrooms but also as a general deterrent. For the same reason, you probably shouldn't clean litter pans with bleach, certainly not the same one you're using as a deterrent elsewhere. Although almost every ferret can be trained to use a litter pan, there is individual variation. Ferrets just aren't as diligent about their pans as most cats, so there will be an occasional accident. Even well-trained ferrets tend to lose track of their litter pans when they're particularly frightened or excited, or if they're in a new house or room. In general you can expect at least a 90% "hit" rate, though some ferrets just don't catch on as well and some do considerably better. At least ferrets are small, so their accidents are pretty easy to clean up. ------------------------------ Subject: <4.6> Any suggestions on bathing, cleaning ears, and clipping nails? Most people like to bathe their ferrets pretty often, since it can help keep the odor down and they don't seem to mind it. Frequent bathing can cause dry skin, though, especially in winter, so be careful. Once every week or two should be okay, but switch to less often if you have problems. Some ferrets enjoy a bath quite a bit, swimming around in the tub and diving for the drain plug. The first step in bathing a ferret (well, after catching her) is to check her nails and trim them if necessary. Lie her on your lap, on her back, her head toward your stomach. Smear her tummy with Ferretone and poke her nose at it. She should be so preoccupied with licking it up that she doesn't even notice what you're doing to her feet. If you have trouble, and a helper, have the helper hold the ferret by the scruff of the neck and put Ferretone on one of his fingers. Scruffing a ferret will generally make her calm down and possibly even go limp, and if not, the Ferretone should keep her distracted. Cut the nail just longer than the pink line inside it. Place the cut parallel to where the floor will be when the ferret stands, to prevent the tip from breaking later. Be careful not to nick the line or the toe, since in either case it'll bleed and your ferret will decide nail clipping is not a good thing. Next you should check your pet's ears. They shouldn't need cleaning more than once a month at most, but if they seem unduly dirty, dampen a cotton swab with sweet oil (made for cleaning babies' ears) or lukewarm water (only if dry skin is not a problem) and gently clean them. Hold the swab along the animal's head rather than poking it into the ear, to avoid injuring the ear. Yellowish or brownish-red ear wax is normal, but if you see any black substance your pet probably has ear mites, which should be taken care of. There's also a product made for cleaning cats' ears, which you just squirt in and they shake out. Your vet should be able to tell you about it. Now fill a tub or kitchen sink partway with lukewarm water. It should feel comfortable on your wrist. If you want to let your pet play in the water, fill a tub just deeper than the ferret is tall, and provide some sort of support (a box in the tub) in case she gets tired of swimming. Finally, bathe the ferret. Ferret shampoos are available, or no-tears baby shampoo works fine too. Wet the ferret completely, either in one half of a double sink or in a tub. Lather her from head to tail; don't worry about her eyes if you're using a no-tears shampoo. Our ferrets both start to struggle at this point, which seems to be because they don't like hanging in midair while being washed. We let them put their hind legs on the side of the tub while they're being washed. Rinse the ferret thoroughly in clear, warm running water. Older, sick, or weak ferrets can be gently cleaned using baby oil, which can also help get gooey things out of fur. Drying a dripping ferret can be a lot of fun or a real hassle, depending on your own preference. I find it's easiest to keep the ferret in a towel at chest-level, holding her head and torso in one hand while drying her with the other. Wearing a terry bathrobe is helpful here too. You could also put your ferret on the floor in a towel and rub her dry, but she'll probably think you're playing a rowdy game of tousle and try to run away [5.6]. Once you've got her mostly dry, put her somewhere warm with a dry towel to roll in and she'll finish the job, although it's been mentioned that a damp ferret seems to lose all sense of judgment, suddenly thinking that walls, cage floors, milk cartons, and everything -except- the towel must be remarkably water-absorbent. You can also try using a hair dryer on its coolest setting, but many ferrets won't stand for that. ------------------------------ Subject: <4.7> Can I teach my ferret tricks? How? Yes, ferrets are plenty smart enough to learn to sit up, turn around, roll over, stay on your shoulders or in a hood, and perhaps even walk on a leash. To train your ferret to stay on your shoulders, for instance, stand over a pile or basket of crumpled newspaper, and when she falls into it, shout, "No!" The combination of the fall, the noise, and your shout should persuade her to pay more attention to staying on. Give her a treat when she does, and she should learn quickly. The trick to all of these is getting your pet's attention while you teach her. Don't try teaching tricks, or even trying to get a ferret to perform, in an unexplored area -- it's nearly futile. Unlike dogs, ferrets generally won't do a trick for the sheer joy of it, or simply to please you. Usually there must be some kind of reward expected, though that could be anything from a lick of Ferretone to a bite of apple to a good head-scratching. ------------------------------ Subject: <4.8> Do ferrets travel well? Around town: Ferrets love going places. You can fix up a shoulder bag with a litter pan and space for a water bottle and food dish and carry them with you wherever they're welcome. Automobile travel: Car trips don't seem to bother ferrets, although being closed up in a travel cage may irritate them -- and you, if they scratch to get out. Keeping them loose in the car is not recommended, since they could get under the driver's feet or through some undetected hole into the engine compartment or onto the road. You can use a water bottle in a car, but fasten a deep dish or cup underneath it, since it will drip, and put down a towel to soak up the inevitable spills. Airplane travel: Only a few airlines allow ferrets on board their planes, in under-seat cat carriers, for an additional charge. (America West does. Any others?) Sending your ferret in the cargo area is not generally recommended, largely due to problems people have had with temperature, pressure and general handling of pets who travel this way. Several people have been able to sneak their ferrets aboard aircraft by taking them through the security checks hidden in bulky coats, then transferring them to a duffel bag in a restroom, but I have no experience with that. Hotels: Many hotels allow pets in cages, although it's a good idea to call ahead and make sure. Also leave a note to reassure the maids. Legality: You should also check with the Wildlife Departments of any areas you'll be passing through or staying in to make sure that ferrets are allowed, and carry documentation of the vaccines your pets have had, just in case. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 5. *** Things ferrets say and do *** ------------------------------ Subject: <5.1> Ferrets don't purr, so how do I know if mine likes something? If he stays still for your petting, plays with his toys, grabs the treat from you, or "chuckles" while playing, he likes it. ------------------------------ Subject: <5.2> My ferret trembles a lot. Is that normal? Generally, yes. Ferrets normally tremble for two reasons. First, they often shiver right after waking up, in order to raise their body temperatures. Second, they shake or quiver when excited or frightened. For a young kit, this could well be all the time, since everything is new and interesting. For older ferrets, a bath or even a good scolding could prompt trembling. If your ferret's trembling persists with no apparent cause, first make sure there's no cold draft around. (Ferrets can live fine outdoors, with blankets and shade, but indoor lighting can cause their winter coats not to come in until long after it's gotten cold enough outside to need one.) If that's not the problem, check with a vet. ------------------------------ Subject: <5.3> Help! My ferret is going bald! Ferrets shed their coats twice a year, in the fall and spring. The times for these changes vary somewhat for ferrets kept in indoor lighting conditions. Fur will come out by the handful, all over the ferret, and his coat may look a bit sparse before the new one grows in. Otherwise, baldness can be caused by several things. Poor nutrition, a severe mite infection, and dry skin are possibilities. A nearly bald tail can be caused by stress, and is not uncommon in intact animals during breeding season. Finally, baldness is also the most noticeable symptom of adrenal lesions in ferrets [6.2]. Any unexplained hair loss should be checked out quickly. If it begins on the tail and progresses forward, eventually leaving hair only on the head and extremities, that's almost certainly the problem. See a vet immediately. ------------------------------ Subject: <5.4> Is he really just asleep? In general, ferrets sleep quite a bit, even adults. A two- to four- hour playtime followed by a several-hour nap is typical. Ferrets sometimes appear to be sleeping with their eyes partly open, and they sleep very heavily, often not waking even when picked up. You can take advantage of this and try to cut their nails while they're asleep. It means you have to be especially careful where you walk and sit, though. ------------------------------ Subject: <5.5> What does such-and-such a noise mean? Clucking, "dooking", or chuckling: Indicates happiness or excitement. Often uttered while playing or exploring a new area. Occasional sneezes: If you crawled under bookcases and couches, you'd sneeze too. Also, ferrets have a pair of scent glands near their chins, and sneezing can be a way of forcing some of the scent out so it can be rubbed on something. Whimpering/whining: Kits, especially, do this as a general excitement noise. It can also be uttered by the loser in a wrestling match. Hissing: Frustration or anger. Screeching/loud chittering: Extreme fright or pain. This is your cue that it's time to go rescue your pet from whatever it's gotten itself into. It can also be a sign of anger. ------------------------------ Subject: <5.6> What games do ferrets like to play? Most ferrets enjoy mock combat, chase, tug-o'-war, hide-and-seek, and so forth, with each other or with you. Ours love to bounce around on our fluffy comforter, swat at us from behind the bookcases, and attack each other through the throw rugs. If your ferret jumps back and forth in front of you or tugs on your pants leg, he wants to play. An appropriate response would be to get down on your hands and knees and chase him around, or to dangle a washcloth in front of him and start a tugging game, for instance. Ferrets like to jump and climb. They're good at finding complicated ways up to desks or closet shelves, but not very good at judging heights. Be careful about how high your pet can get, since he may try to jump down. Ferrets also love to swipe things and drag them into the most inaccessible location possible. Protect your keys and wallet. A happy ferret will "dance," flinging himself about on all fours with an arched back. Clucking is common too. Dancing or just careening into walls or bookcases is not at all uncommon, but ferrets seem to just bounce off of such obstacles. Unless they actually injure themselves, don't worry about them; they're having fun. Immediately after a bath, many ferrets pretty much go nuts, thrashing from side to side and rolling against everything in sight. Mainly they're trying to dry themselves, with a good bit of general excitement from the bath and drying process (see question 4.6) too. ------------------------------ Subject: <5.7> What else should I probably not worry about? Scratching: Ferrets just seem to be itchy little critters. If you don't see any fleas or "flea dust" (bits of dried blood), it's probably not fleas, so as long as the skin isn't irritated or balding don't worry about it. If you see little white flakes, it may be dry skin. Sniffing/wiping/licking the rear: This is a normal thing to do, especially after a bath. It helps spread the ferret's scent around. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 6. *** Problems to watch for *** ------------------------------ Subject: <6.1> What warning signs of disease should I watch for? NOTE: I am not a veterinarian. I haven't even owned ferrets very long. (Dr. Bruce Williams, on the other hand, -is- a vet and ferret expert.) The following is by no means a comprehensive list of symptoms of disease in ferrets. However, some of the more common problems are often accompanied by these symptoms. If you notice one of these, or any other unusual behavior, see your vet. ALSO: Ferrets are small. While they generally enjoy good health, any kind of disease or disorder can be fatal in only a day or two, so if you suspect a problem, see your vet immediately. - Lethargy, lack of playfulness, loss of appetite, dull/glassy eyes, limp whiskers, etc. Symptomatic of a number of problems. [6.2] - Lack of bowel movement. If your ferret has gone longer than usual without using the litter pan (or some other corner) productively, he may have an intestinal blockage. Certainly by the time it's been 24 hours you should go to the vet immediately. Note that a ferret can continue to defecate for as much as a day even with a blockage, since there's still waste in the intestines to be eliminated. Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, says: More often than not, [the cause of a lack of bowel movement] is a lack of food intake for some other reason. Ferrets generally go to the litter three or four times a day. Owners should look for adequate stools, although some may be a little loose. Also look for string-like stools. Ferrets with intestinal blockages can continue to pass stool which is very thin- like a pencil lead. But adequate ferret-proofing [4.1] is much more important than stool-watching. - A swollen abdomen. Bloating may come from many problems such as heart disease, splenic enlargement, or even just fat animals. - A painful abdomen. Could be any of several disorders, but the most common is an intestinal blockage, caused by eating something indigestible such as a sponge or an eraser. Not all blockages cause abdominal pain, though. [6.2] - Change in "bathroom" habits. Suddenly refusing to use a litter pan or missing a lot more than usual, signs of discomfort or distress while using a pan, or any funny color or texture in the feces or urine could be a sign of any of a number of problems. Stress, perhaps from a change in environment, can also cause this. - Lumps in the body or feet. These are most often associated with tumors, which may be benign or cancerous. They can also be a sign of an infection, the result of dietary problems, or a vaccine reaction [6.2]. Have any swelling or lump checked out. - Difficulty using the hind feet, lack of movement, awkward gait. Most often a sign of an adrenal or pancreatic tumor, or arthritis, in older ferrets. Could also be an injured back, the result of having been stepped or sat upon, closed in a door, or the like. Ferrets have very flexible spines, but they're easily injured. Says Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, about hind-end awkwardness: This is a common finding in older animals of many species - the most common cause is a mild degeneration of the nerves in the spinal cord or those innervating the legs. In most of these cases, there is nothing to be done, but it also rarely results in paralysis, just variable amounts of weakness. - Overheating. Ferrets do not tolerate high temperatures well at all. They (like any pet) should NEVER be left in a hot car, and if you're keeping them outdoors be sure to provide some shade and plenty of water in summer. Allowing them to sleep under hot radiators is probably also a bit risky. Temperatures as low as the 80's can be life-threatening to ferrets without shade or water. - Loose skin and dull eyes. Generally caused by dehydration, which is serious in such a small animal. - Unexplained hair loss. Not the usual seasonal shedding, which should happen twice a year (but the times may vary due to indoor lighting conditions), but a severe loss, especially if more than the tail is affected. [5.3, 6.2] - Seizures. It's pretty obvious that these indicate some kind of problem. Most often the result of islet cell tumors [6.2] in the pancreas causing extremely low blood sugar, but there are many other causes too. - Diarrhea or vomiting. Both of these are serious, since ferrets are easily dehydrated. Diarrhea may be caused by milk products, which contain lactose that ferrets do not tolerate, or by a number of diseases. Ferrets do not generally vomit unless they're rather ill, although during shedding season they may "spit up" a bit due to hair in the throat [3.5]. - Sneezing, runny nose, watery eyes, lethargy. Yes, ferrets catch human colds and flu. They'll generally rest and drink a lot. A visit to the vet would probably be a good idea, particularly if the cold looks bad or lasts more than a few days. - Tooth grinding. Almost exclusively abdominal pain. #1 cause - stress-associated gastric ulcers. ------------------------------ Subject: <6.2> What are some of the more common diseases in ferrets? Once again, I'm not a vet or even a ferret expert, but here's a list of several of the most common medical problems in ferrets, especially older ones. (Dr. Bruce Williams -is- a vet and ferret expert.) * Intestinal blockages. Caused by eating something indigestible, such as an eraser, a rubber band, some fabrics, or even a good-sized hairball (accumulated from grooming), which gets stuck. Symptoms may include (one or more of) lack of bowel movement, constipation, bloating, vomiting or heaving, drooling, and others. Blockages may occur at any point in the digestive tract, from the throat through the lower intestine, even in the stomach where the object may move around and produce only intermittent symptoms. Laxatone or a similar hairball remedy/laxative can help prevent this [3.5]. Treatment is surgery, to remove the blockage. * Tumors or lesions of the adrenal glands. Symptoms vary, including hair loss spreading from the base of the tail forward [5.3], lethargy, loss of appetite, and loss of coordination in the hindquarters. In females, often the most prominent sign is an enlarged vulva as in heat. Often, however, a tumor will be present without showing any signs at all, so if your ferret is going in for any surgery, the vet should take a look at the adrenal glands as well (if time permits -- ferrets lose body heat very quickly in surgery). The left gland seems to be affected more often than the right. * Islet cell tumors. These are tumors of insulin-secreting cells in the pancreas. Their main effect is a drop in the blood sugar level, and they are also common enough in older ferrets, even without symptoms, that if your pet is having surgery for something else, a quick check is worthwhile. Symptoms include lethargy and loss of appetite; in more severe cases attention lapses (staring into space) and seizures may also occur. If you're more than a minute from your vet and your ferret has a low enough blood sugar level to be having seizures, call the vet and ask if you should rub Karo (corn sugar) syrup on your pet's gums to raise it just enough to bring him out of the seizure. Dr. Williams adds: * Lymphosarcoma. Lymphosarcoma is the most common type of cancer in the ferret. It is a tumor of a certain type of white blood cell, and the most common clinical sign is enlargement of the lymph nodes. It may also arise in the abdomen, where lymph nodes can only be felt with reasonable accuracy by your veterinarian. It is most commonly seen in older animals from 4-6 years of age, although animals as young as a year old can have it. While animals initially respond well to chemotherapy, they usually relapse in 2 months or less, and generally are put to sleep at this time. The prognosis for any ferret with lymphosarcoma is poor. * Gastric ulcers. Ferrets may develop gastric ulcers in time o stress. Clinical signs are dark, tarry stools, a lack of appetite, and grinding of the teeth. It can be treated by your vet, but it takes 3-4 weeks to recover from this condition. You must first remove the stress from the animals environment before any recovery can begin. These animals also need good nursing care to get them back on their food. With proper care - recovery rates are over 90%. * Cutaneous vaccine reactions. Subcutaneous vaccination with rabies or other vaccines may, over a period of weeks, cause a hard lump [6.2] at the site of vaccination. The lump simply consists of a large area of inflammation and most commonly are seen around the neck. The lumps can be removed, and generally do not cause a major problem for your pet. Similar lesions may be seen in vaccinated dogs and cats. * Helicobacter mustelae infection. Infection of the stomach lining by a bacteria, Helicobacter mustelae is extremely common in ferrets. Animals with longstanding infections (generally older animals), may develop gastric problems due to the bacteria's ability to decrease acid production in the stomach. Signs of a problem include repetitive vomiting, lack of appetite, and signs of gastric ulcers (see above). Helicobacter infection and gastric ulcers often go hand in hand - the relationship between infection and gastric ulcer formation has not been totally worked out, although there is currently a lot of research in this area. Helicobacter infection can be cured with administration of antibiotic and a gastric coating agent over a period of weeks. ------------------------------ Subject: <6.3> How did I get fleas in my home? How can I get rid of them? Even if your ferrets are never outdoors, you can bring in fleas or their eggs on your shoes or clothing. There's a whole FAQ dedicated to ridding your pet and your home of fleas and ticks. It's distributed in the usenet newsgroup rec.pets. You can also get it by FTP: ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet/news.answers/fleas-ticks (that is, ftp to rtfm.mit.edu and get the indicated file) or by sending email to mail-server@rtfm.mit.edu with the line send usenet/news.answers/fleas-ticks in the body of the message (with an empty subject line). In general, most products which are safe for use on kittens are safe for ferrets. Products containing pyrethins are okay, but don't use anything containing organophosphates or carbamate. Be especially careful with dips and sprays; shampoos are much safer. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 7. *** Where to get more information *** ------------------------------ Subject: <7.1> How can I find a ferret breeder/contact/shelter in my area? An extensive list of ferret clubs, breeders, and organizations is maintained by STAR*Ferrets and is available by email from a list server. Send email to listserv@cunyvm.cuny.edu with the line SEND FERRET DATABASE in the body. Note that the file is rather long, around 44K, which may give some mailers problems. ------------------------------ Subject: <7.2> How do I join the Ferret Mailing list? The Ferret Mailing List (FML) is strongly recommended. To subscribe to the FML, send a note to its moderator, Chris Lewis, at ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca and ask to be added. You'll get a note back detailing policies and such and explaining how to send letters to the list. ------------------------------ Subject: <7.3> Is there any other information available on-line? Discussions of ferrets sometimes come up in the Usenet newsgroup rec.pets. The FAQ "Fleas, Ticks and Your Pet" is distributed there, as well [6.3]. Several bulletin board systems keep pet FAQs and discussions, as does the Compuserve Small Mammals forum. ------------------------------ Subject: <7.4> What are some of the books available? Lots of books have been written about ferrets, ranging from brief treatments to extensive discussions of behavior and medical issues. Introductory books, all most owners will ever need, are usually available in pet stores. Two of the more popular are Ferrets: a Complete Owner's Manual, by Chuck and Fox Morton. Barron's Educational Series, Hauppauge, NY, 1985. ISBN 0-8120-2976-3 A relatively short, but well-written guide. Not as in-depth as some, but a very good, friendly introduction to ferrets as pets. Ferrets in Your Home, by Dr. Wendy Winsted. T.F.H. Publications, Inc., Neptune City, NJ, 1990. ISBN 0-86622-988-4 Longer and more in-depth, but still very readable. Includes, for instance, more information on reproduction and breeding, but also more expensive. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 8. *** Revision history of this file *** The most accurate description of the version of this FAQ is the date at the top. For really minor changes, I won't necessarily change the version number, but I'll always change the date. Version 1.2 - 3 May 94 Added sections 0.1, 0.2, 1.3, 1.4, 2.5 Revised and reformatted pretty much the whole file Version 1.1.1 - 15 Mar 94 Added copyright and redistribution information Version 1.1 - 28 Jan 94 Revised the top disclaimer and numerous sections Version 1.0 - 15 Dec 93 The first "release" version, though previous ones were distributed Completely revised and reorganized the file Version 0.3 - 12/7/93 Version 0.2 - 11/29/93 Version 0.1 - 11/23/93 The original version.