By: Holly Sullivan Area: Rec.Crafts.Quilting Date: 28 Jun 94 16:55:49 From: lara@sgi.sgi.com (1:363/198.1) To: All Subj: Textiles FAQ Xref: sgb rec.crafts.textiles:505 rec.crafts.quilting:171 alt.sewing:475 Summary: Answers to Frequently Asked Questions in the rec.crafts.textiles and alt.sewing newsgroups. Includes charters of the groups, lists of sources, info on quiling groups and info on natural fabrics. Last-modified: 17 Jun 1994 The following is the first of three lists of Frequently Asked Questions for the alt.sewing and rec.crafts.textiles groups. I plan to use the same FAQs for both newsgroups as long as most of the questions remain pertinent to both groups. Like most of us, I don't know all the answers, I've just collected the wisdom of the net. Many of these answers have been culled for postings over the last year or so. Many regular posters have contributed to this list through their postings and e-mail. Any additions or comments are appreciated and can be mailed to me. lara@sgi.sgi.com (Lara Allen) (415) 390-1609 ----------------------------------------------------------------- The first list concentrates on general sewing questions and supply information and restoring antique sewing machines. The second list concentrates on costuming and historical clothing. The third posting contains a list of books that cover sewing, fitting and pattern drafting. Some of these answers are fairly lengthy so I have used "ctrl-L" between the different questions in this FAQ. Note: within the "rn" news reader you can use: g 1) at the "More --##%--" prompt to go directly to question 1). Questions addressed: 1) Where can I discuss xyzzy (weaving, spinning, flower arrangements, dyeing etc)? 2) Where can I get material for outdoor gear or windsocks? 3) What's the best brand of sewing machine or serger? 4) What are the addresses of various places? 5) What are the best periodicals and sources for Heirloom Sewing (also known as French Hand Sewing) projects? 6) Where can I get natural fabrics by mail order? 7) Would anyone like to exchange quilt blocks? Is there a quilting maillist? 8) I've just been given my Great Grandmother's sewing machine. Can anyone help me fix it or restore it? 9) Where can I get an up to date copy of this FAQ? Significant changes since posting of 1/17/94: 1) New periodical Ornament 2) Addition of Fantasy Costume Mailing List 1) Where can I discuss xyzzy (weaving, spinning, flower arrangements, dyeing etc)? There are four news groups for various handcrafts. The original group alt.sewing is primarily for sewing topics. Other topics are discussed there occassionally, but we now have the groups rec.crafts.textiles for sewing, needlecraft and non-sewing discussions and rec.crafts.misc for other handcrafts. In August, 1993 the group rec.crafts.quilting was created to cover quilting and related topics. Postings and questions from novices and experts are encouraged in all newsgroups. Readers enjoy the chance to help someone get started with a new craft. The original charter for the unmoderated group rec.crafts.textile is: This newsgroup is for discussing all fiber and textile related interests that are not covered by another rec.crafts group. This includes, but is not limited to, sewing, weaving, spinning, knitting, crochet, quilting, embroidery, cross stitch, tatting, lacemaking and dyeing. Discussions may cover techniques, supplies and equipment, drafting of patterns, artistic approaches, exhibitions or shows, books or other references. Textiles includes both textiles to be worn or used in a home and textiles created for display. The original charter for the unmoderated group rec.crafts.misc is: This newsgroup is for discussing all crafts and hobbies that are not covered by another rec or rec.crafts group. Such crafts may include, but are not limited to, jewelry making, metalwork, leatherwork, papermaking, dollmaking, instrument making, and stained glass. Some subjects discussed in rec.crafts.misc may overlap other rec.crafts groups. The original charter for the unmoderated group rec.crafts.quilting is: This newsgroup is for discussing anything related to quilting. It includes piecing, applique, and tying and quilting by hand or machine. Discussions may cover techniques, supplies, equipment, drafting of patterns, templates, dyeing materials, artistic approaches, exhibitions, shows, books and other references, mail order resources, dating quilts and appraising quilts. Discussions may include quilts and quilting both past (historical quilting) and present, ethnic quilting, quilts to be used in a home, quilted clothing to be worn, as well as quilts created for display and any other piecing or quilting applications. There is a maillist for knitting. To join, send mail to listserv@geom.umn.edu and in the BODY of your message put: subscribe knit FirstName LastName Fibernet is a bulletin board run by Ron Parker in Henning, Minnesota. It's a pretty active boards--there's usually 30-50 messages a week posted, mostly on spinning, weaving, knitting and dyeing. The phone number is 218-583-4337; the modems handle 1200-14,400 baud, 8N1. There are no charges for using the bulletin board and there is a program to allow you to upload and download files to read at your leisure for maximum efficiency. In addition to the bulletin board Fibernet provides access to several Usenet newsgroups as well as lots of fiber-related software available for downloading - includinf freeware, shareware and demos of commercial products. For a packet of information about FiberNet send a SASE to Ron Parker, Rt. 1, Box 153, Henning, MN. If you send him $5.00 and the details about which computer you use, he'll send you a disc with the off-line reader and other good stuff on it. If you have any questions, his voice line is (218) 583-2419, between 7:00 a.m. and 7:00 p.m. central time. Fibernet is echoed on two satellite nodes: Alaksa Pirate Society in Anchorage, AK at 907-248-9364 and 9365, sysop Patti Johnson; and Some Sunny Day BBS in Connersville, IN at 317-825-5044, sysop Steve Read. Both BBSs accept calles at up to 14,400 bps There is a BBS called Arachne's Web in Alexandria, VA. The sysop is Karl Weiss, and they handle up to 2400 baud. The phone number is 703-765-1288. Arachne's Web is free. The Seattle Textile Computer Users Group publishes a newsletter called "Fiberbits", where they review software available for all types of textile work - sewing, cross stitch, knitting, quilting, weaving, you name it. As of 1994, the subscription price may be $18/year. Fiberbits P. O. Box 17506 Seattle, WA 98107 There is a listserv maillist called CRAFTS-L available from BIGVAX.ALFRED.EDU. For more information you can send the command "HELP" in the *body* of a mail message to listserv@bigvax.alfred.edu. Teri Miller (shannah@netcom.com) runs a maillist for discussions relating to owning and running a crafts business. This includes discussions of how to start a business, and information from people who have already started their own businesses. Short ads are welcome here. Contact Teri if you're interested in joining. Historic Costume Maillist: Contact: h-costume-request@andrew.cmu.edu Purpose: This list concentrates on recreating period clothing, from the Bronze age to the mid-20th Century. Its emphasis is on accurate historical reproduction of clothing, historical techniques for garment construction, and the application of those techniques in modern clothing design. Other topics appropriate for discussion include adapting historical clothing for the modern figure, clothing evolution, theatrical costumes, patterns, materials, books, and sources for supplies. Vintage Clothing And Costume Jewelry Maillist: Contact: vintage-request@lunch.asd.sgi.com Purpose: The purpose of this list is to discuss existing vintage clothing and vintage costume jewelry, of all eras, but especially existing Victorian vintage through to the Sixties. "Existing" is the key word here, and conversations concentrate on how to find such clothing and jewelry, where to buy it, how to judge its quality, how much to pay for it, how to wear it, etc. Some restoration topics, such as how to use parts of damaged goods in other garments or jewelry settings are suitable topics too. Announcements for estate sales, advertisements for sale or wanted, and pointers to shops are all welcome on this list. Fantasy Costume Maillist: Contact: f-costume-request@lunch.asd.sgi.com Purpose: This list concentrates on the creation of fantasy costume of all eras: past, present and future. The imagination is your only limitation. Discussions concentrate on design, motivation and execution of fantasy clothing, costume, or wearable art. Suitable topics include techniques of abstraction, theatrical costumes, serious Halloween and Mardi Gras costumes, mythological and other non-factual historic-type costumes, incorporating mixed media, creative and motivational forces, using and finding patterns, materials, books, and other sources for supplies. QuiltNet and Quilting Exchange Maillists: See question 7) below: Would anyone like to exchange quilt blocks? Is there a quilting maillist? Acknowledgements: Anne Louise Gockel close@lunch.asd.sgi.com (Diane Barlow Close) durham@freenet.scri.fsu.edu (Ann Durham) jill@cherry.cray.com (Jill McAllister) Jennifer.Griffin@launchpad.unc.edu (Jennifer Griffin) Ron Parker roe@u.washington.edu (Jim Roe and Susan Yount) 2) Where can I get material for outdoor gear? The Rain Shed 707 NW 11th Corvallis, OR 97330 (503) 753-8900 - Also carries reflective fabric and patterns for windsocks. The Green Pepper 3918 West First Avenue Eugene, OR 97402 (800) 767-5684 - Also carries neoprene fabric. Frostline Kits 2512 W. Independent Avenue Grand Junction, CO 81505-7200 (800) KITS-USA - Also carries down, and down kits. Outdoor Wilderness Fabrics 2511 Latah Drive Nampa, ID 83651 (208)466-1602 - Will do wholesale prices if large purchase. Mountain Mend 1580 Canyon Boulder, CO (303) 443-1925 - No additional information. Seattle Fabrics 3878 Bridge Way N Seattle 98103 (206) 632-6022 - canvas, gor-tex, polarplus, etc. Daisy Kingdom 134 NW 8th Portland, OR (503) 222-9033 800-234-6688 or 503-222-3817; FAX 503-222-9120. $2.00 for nursery/craft catalogue. Mastercard, Visa, UPS an Fed Ex. - They sell outdoor fabrics and also patterns. They do sell by mail order. Sewing Sampler Productions PO Box 39 Springfield, MN 56087 (800) 772-5011 or (507) 723-5011 - Nylon Supplex Sew Natural Fabrics by Mail 4650 Bishop Road Mechanicsville MD 20659 (800) 368-0126 or (301) 373-3067 - Ultrex (breathable waterproof microcoated supplex for raincoats, etc) Narain's Outdoor Equipment Berkeley, CA (510) 527-2509 - They are in Berkeley next door to REI. They carry Gore-tex, but they are not mail order. Malden Mills Lawrence, Mass (508) 685-6341 - Near Mass/NH border. Factory outlet store with large discounts on PolorPlus (Synchilla) and PolarLite. Open Tues, Thurs, Fri only 10-6. No Mail Order! In England: Pennine Outdoor Tel 0484 683206 and 684302 Hard Knott Holmbridge Huddersfield W. Yorkshire England Tor Outdoor Pursuits 3 Fryer Sreeet Runcorn Cheshire WA7 1ND They are both good and the service is rapid. Pennine have slightly more variety and are somewhat more expensive. In Canada: Textile Outfitters Inc. (see question 6) below) Books and Articles: Article by Rochelle Harper in Threads #25 (Oct/Nov 1989) on making a copy of a Patagonia jacket. Article in Threads #19 about different water resistant fabrics. Also discusses copying a London Fog raincoat. Artile in Threads #46 about making a mid-weight raincoat with a zip-out lining. _Sew and Repair Your Outdoor Gear_ by Louise Lindgren Sumner, published by the Mountaineers, copyright 1988, $14.95 (paper) ISBN 0-89886-057-1. An article in Sew News July 1991 about sewing boat covers mentions three books: _Big Boat of Boat Canvas_, _Complete Canvas Workers Guide_, _Canvas and Rope Craft_. Available from: Northwest Sewing Box 25826 Seattle 98125-1326 For making windsocks the following is also available from Daisy Kingdom: Let's Make Windsocks By Valerie J. Lund Copyright date 1989 ISBN 0-9622405-0-8 Central Coast Creations P.O. Box 3643 San Luis Obispo, Ca. 93403 Fabric for kite making from the FAQ for rec.kites. Into the Wind, 1408 Pearl Street, Boulder, CO 80302 Go Fly a Kite, P.O. Box AA, East Haddam, CT 06423 Hang-Em High Fabrics, 1420 Yale Avenue, Richmond, VA 23224 See the FAQ in rec.kites for many more recommendations about books and sources. Compiled from postings or comments by: suzy@skat.usc.edu (Susan A. Musil) bobbiem@hpcupt1.cup.hp.com (Bobbie Morrison) marg@media-lab.MEDIA.MIT.EDU (Margaret Minsky) GO5@psuvm.psu.edu (Kjell E. Grotland) devine_d@apollo.HP.COM (Donna Devine) Dave Uebele uunet!sco!daveu or daveu@sco.com alg@cs.cornell.edu (Anne Louise Gockel) ber@otter.hpl.hp.com (Brenda Romans) (ber@hpl.hp.co.uk,ber%hplb.uucp@ukc.ac.uk) togood@roger.lerc.nasa.gov (Chris Miller) tigger@satyr.sylvan.com (Grace Sylvan) 3) What's the best brand of sewing machines or sergers? This question comes up frequently and there are many many answers. This summary mentions some of the names that have come up repeatedly, it is not an exhaustive list. For sewing machines, Bernina, Pfaff and Elna are all considered top of the line sewing machines. However the top of the line new machines start in the $1500+ range (with list prices typically more) which puts them out of reach of many non-professionals. Note that many high-end dealers are willing to "bargain" with prospective buyers so it can be helpful to shop around and carefully compare packages, particularly in large cities that have substantial competition. (The process is often compared with the sort of "dealing" that is typical when purchasing a new car.) Because the margins can be very high, sales or special deals may have discounts as high as 50%. For people with a much lower budget a number of people have recommended the Bernette or Pfaff Hobbymatic. In the medium range Viking/Husquevarna has been recommended several times. Also a number of people have spoken highly of the New Home machines (e.g. the Memory Craft 7500 and 8000) which tend to be as much as $600 cheaper than the comparable Bernina, Pfaff and Elna models yet have almost as many features. Sew News has a regular column that includes reports about different sewing machines and sergers. The June/July 1991 issue of Threads includes an article discussing a reader's survey. This article discusses the best machines available under $300 and buying a used machine. The Novemeber / December 1991 issue of Vogue Patterns lists many of the features of the high end computerized sewing machines, including machines from Baby Lock, Bernina, Necchi, New Home, Pfaff, Singer, Viking and White. This article is a good place to start when comparing the high-end machines. The October / November 1992 issue of Threads includes an article explaining the differences between mechanical, electronic and computerized sewing machines. Many people favor buying a high end used sewing machine, particularly the 1950's and 1960's Singers (model 400 and 500 series) or a used Bernina, Pfaff or Elna. You can often purchase these from dealers in any reasonably large city. For example, I purchased a Singer Model 400 from the early 1960's for about $150 in Seattle in 1990. The older machines usually don't have specialty embroidery stitches, but they often are extremely well made and sew well with a wide variety of material. Machines made in the 50's and 60's may not have a stretch stitch; you may need to use a zig-zag when sewing knit materials or activewear. If you sew alot of clothing, pay particular attention to the buttonholer on the used sewing machine. A serger is a machine that produces a number of special stitches. Some people use the name "overlock machine" instead of "serger"; they are equivilent. If you look at the inside leg seam on a pair of commercial pants you will usually find a seam that has been finished with a zig-zag like stitch that binds the edges of the seams. This seam was produced with a serger. A serger is useful for many tasks, including a) sewing and finishing a seam in one step, b) sewing knits (sergers naturally produce stretch stitches), c) making a small, neat, rolled edge on items like table cloths, napkins, or simple curtains and d) sewing *very* *very* quickly! People who have sergers often swear by them. You cannot *replace* a sewing machine with a serger since a serger can never do things like buttonholes and is not really appropriate for tasks like topstitching or tailoring. Home sergers are a fairly new invention; they've been available since the mid 1970's and have gained popularity rapidly since the mid-80's. There have been many changes in home sergers in the past few years. In addition to the high- end brands mentioned for sewing machines, many people have been happy with Babylock, Hobbylock, or White sergers. The April / May 1992 issue of Threads (#39) includes an article comparing many high-end four and five thread sergers. The June / July 1992 issue of Threads includes a number of letters with additional comments about sergers. The Winter/Holiday 1991 issue of Butterick has a feature story on sergers, including an extensive comparison chart. Sew News regularly has articles about different models of sergers. Each year Sew News publishes a chart that compares the features of some of the most common brands of sewing machines or sergers. The charts are available by sending $2.00 for each chart (sewing machines or sergers) and a legal-sized SASE to Sew News Machine Chart or Sew News Serger Chart Box 1790 Peoria, IL 61656 For a phamplet entitled "Serger Update: What to Buy and Why --- A Generic Guide to Buying or Upgrading" as well as the "1993 Serger Comparison Chart", send $5 and legal-sized SASE with 58 cents postage to Sew News Serger Package Box 1790 Peoria, IL 61656 These charts are somewhat limited. The following comments are based on the 1991 chart for sewing machines. Each chart is updated every other year. The chart is a single piece of paper 22"x17" and it contains a checklist of several sewing machines and their features. There is no "rating" along the lines of Consumer Reports. There is no manufacturer suggested list price. The chart includes a selection of the most common machines, but only several models from each company; many models and manufacturers are not listed. The 1991 chart includes the following features in it's checklist: number of stitches, max stitch width, automatic needle stop, # needle positions, disengage feed dogs, reverse stitching (instant or continuous), buttonhole styles, buttonhole making system, slow speed option, needle threader, basting max length, low bobbin indicator, number of characters in membory, number of standard presser feet, presser foot indicator, alphabet, numbers, mirror-image patterning, single motif patterning, pattern elongation, pattern reduction, retractable cords, machine weight, limited warranty & special features. I know of no source that really tests, rates and compares sewing machines along the lines of Consumer Reports. CR does rate sewing machines, but usually emphasizes mid-level machines that often seem to be rated by average-level home sewers. Most articles in textile magazines (and this FAQ!) discuss and list features, but do very little comparison or evaluation. You may wish to ask sewing instructors about their favorite features on their favorite machines. 4) What are the addresses of various places? Note: Unless noted otherwise, all addresses and phone numbers are in the USA. Publications: Threads & Folkwear Patterns Taunton Press 63 South Main Street Box 355 Newtown, CT 06470-9959 1-800-888-8286 (203) 426-8171 (front desk: ask for ordering or subscription; for problems ask for customer service) FAX: 203-270-9373 $24/year in Jan 1992 for Threads, 6 issues per year; $2 for a Folkwear catalog. Taunton publishes quite a few books, including several books that are collections of Threads articles. Ars Textrina: The Art of Weaving Charles Babbage Research Centre P.O .Box 272, St Norbert Postal Station Winnipeg, Manitoba CANADA R3V 1L6 Research journal of white papers pertaining to textiles including history of textiles, study of textile machines, economics in the textile industry, anthropological studies, aesthetics, the use of textiles in the theature or as a substitute for paintings, and textile conservation. (for more information, you can email Craig_Swistun@MBnet.MB.CA) Ornament PO Box 2349 San Marcos, CA 92079-9806 1-800-888-8950 fax: 1-619-599-0228 $25/year, 4 issues per year; $40 for 2 years Piecework & Handwoven Interweave Press 201 East Fourth Street Loveland, CO 80537 1-800-645-3675 (303) 669-7672 8-5 Mountain time - Piecework magazine, Handwoven magazine and another spinning magazine (Spin- Off?). Publishes quite a few books for weavers, spinners and dyers. Sew News PO Box 3134 Harlan, IA 51537-3134 1-800-289-6397 Subscription or problem with subscription: 515-247-7569; FAX: 515-246-1020 Advertising or other concerns: 309-682-6626 $17.83/year in Jan 1992, 12 issues per year (no longer in newspaper style) Textile Fibre Forum The Australian Forum for Textile Arts PO Box 38 The Gap Queensland, Australia, 4061 Three times a year; Basketry, Papermaking, Knitting, Weaving etc. as well as teaching and making a living in the crafts. German Language Publications, Inc. 560 Sylvan Avenue Englewood Cliffs, NJ 07632 Burda: $60/year, 12 issues; $6/sample issue. A number of other Burda magazines for sewing and knitting (including kids, full figure, etc). Each issue of Burda contains many (20+) patterns that you can trace and make. The pattern sheets were re-designed in summer 1992 for better layout and more consistant sizes (e.g. each pattern available in 4 or 5 sizes; several patterns on a special "snip and sew" sheet, etc). The sewing directions are somewhat terse with minimal illustrations; patterns do not include seam allowances. Send for a sample issue to see if you like the format. Vogue Patterns Altoona, PA 16603 Approx $14 for 6 issues; each issue includes a 2-for-the-price-of-1 pattern coupon (plus $2 for shipping and handling) Butterick Patterns PO Box 569 Altoona, PA 16603 Approx $9 for 4 issues; each issue includes a 2-for-the-price-of-1 pattern coupon (plus $2 for shipping and handling) McCalls Patterns PO Box 3325 Manhattan, KS 66502-9917 1-800-MCCALL Approx $10 for 4 issues; each issues includes a free pattern coupon ($1.50 for shipping and handling). Sewing related notions: Nancy's Notions PO Box 683-BK5 Beaver Dam, WI 53916 (800) 833-0690 FAX: 800-255-8119 Business Line: 414-887-0391 - Free catalog. Runs specials on prices and shipping several times a year. Check the order form and read the catalog to be sure to find the discounts. Excellent, thick catalog. Also sells and rents sewing videos. Clotilde 1909 SW First Ave. Fort Lauderdale, Fl 33315-2100 (305) 761-8655 (800) 772-2891; M-F 8:30 - 5:00 EST - Catalog costs $2, but they offer it free during certain times of the year. Great place to find tailoring notions. Most prices are discounted 10-20% under retail prices. The Perfect Notion 566 Hoyt Street Darien, CT 06820 (203) 968-1257 - Catalog costs $1. Has a good collection of helpful and hard to find notions. [As of April 1993, Perfect Notion may be for wholesalers only. Call before you order.] TreadleArt 25834-I Narbonne Ave. Lomita, CA 90717 (213) 534-5122 (800) 327-4222 - Catalog costs $3. Great supply of sewing, quilting and needlework books. Lots of applique patterns and unique sewing ideas. Okay supply of notions. Atlanta Thread and Supply Co. 695 Red Oak Road Stockbridge, GA 30281 (800) 847-1001 (800) 331-7600 404-389-9115 FAX: 404-389-9202 - Catalog is free. Great supply of threads, especially of large serger cones. Offers professional/industrial pressing equipment and sewing machines. Hard to find drapery notions. Great if you sew for the home. Thread Discount Sales 5960 E. Florence St. PO Box 2277 Bell Gardens, CA 90201 (213) 773-8409 - No catalog, but offers free info sheets on heavily discounted sewing machines, sergers and threads. As of 1/92, machines are available only for Calif residents (sorry!). Thread available nationwide. Great if you want a bargain. Some industrial sewing machines available. The Thread Shed P. O. Box 898 Horse Shoe, NC 28742-0898 - cotton thread in large cones for quilting. Many colors, 2000 and 6000 yard spools. Sewing Emporium 1079 Third Avenue Chula Vista, CA 92010 (619) 420-3490 - Charges for their very thick catalog, but they'll sometimes send it out free anyway (just ask!). Excellent place to get all kinds of pressor feet for your sewing machine. They'll design and make any pressor foot you can imagine. Reasonable prices. They also offer a unique, giant cutting board set-up. Catalog costs $4.95 (Dec '93) and contains a wealth of hints and tips on sewing. The Sewing Emporium is a source of large cutting mats at reasonable prices (they make their own) and a source for just about any type of sewing machine foot and serger foot. Also has many, many sewing machine replacement parts and some sewing furniture. Britex Fabrics San Francisco 415-392-2910 - LARGE collection of fabrics; will send swatches for mail order. G-Street Fabrics Rockville, MD - LARGE collection of fabrics; will send swatches for mail order. Sew/Fit Company P.O. Box 397 Bedford Park, IL 60499 (800) 547-4739 (order line) (708) 458-5600 - various sewing supplies, including many pressure feet. Home-Sew P.O. Box 4099 Bethlehem, PA 18018-0099 Good source of general supplies and notions. Send 50 cents for their Sample Club card. Carries some inexpensive entredeux and embroideries. Speed Stitch PO Box 3472 Port Charlotte, FL 33952 (800) 874-4115 - Catalog costs $3 and it hasn't been reprinted since 1989. An excellent source for machine embroidery products, though. Aardvark Territorial Enterprize PO Box 2449 Livermore, CA 94551-0241 (800) 388-2687; (510) 443-2687 - Catalog $2 per issue or for $12 per year. You get the next 4 issues "free" with each order. Huge collection of beads, embellishments, miscellaneous craft supplies, tools, books. The catalog includes many tips and alot of interesting information. Lacis 2982 Adeline Street Berkeley, CA 94703 (415) 843-7178 - supplies for lace and bobbin lace Fabulous Furs Donna Salyer 800-848-4650 - Fake furs designed to be almost as nice as traditional furs. Linda's Silver Needle Naperville, IL 1-800-SMOCK-IT - visa, MC carries Pullen and Read 16 row pleaters, Sally Stanley and Amanda Jane 24 row pleaters and a Read 32 Row Pleater. Prices range from $95 - 159 with free shipping and handling. Mother Nurture Apperal and Patterns Resources for Breastfeeding and Beyond 916 Royal Blackheath Court Naperville, IL 60563-2304 (708)420-4233 - Catalog cost is $3.00 lots of info to help new moms too. Nursing and breast feeding patterns Elizabeth Lee Designs, Patterns for the Breastfeeding Mother PO Box 696 Bluebell, Utah, 84007 (801) 454-3738 - Also lots of info and if you buy three, get one free Great Fit Patterns-SN 2229 NE Burnside, Suite 305 Gresham, OR 97030 - Catalog $1, sizes 38-60 (yes, for us larger women!!!) Better Pak 675 Dell Rd. Carlstadt, NJ 07072 (201) 804-0202 - gridded pattern paper, the kind used in the garment industry. In summer '92, $39 +s/h for a 600 foot roll of 45" wide gridded paper. Split a roll with your friends! Canadian Mail Order Supplies: Fabric Magic Creations - beading supplies 10846 - 132A Street - they also have a video on how you can apply Surrey, BC beads using your sewing machine V3T 3Y3 604-584-9446 A Great Notion Sewing Supply Ltd. - two day delivery locally 13847 17A Avenue White Rock, BC V4A 7H4 604-538-2829 ; FAX 604-538-4467 Textile Outfitters Inc. - outerwear patterns, fabrics, and notions 318A - 10th Street NW Calgary, AB T2N 1V8 403-270-2155; FAX 403-289-5491 Sundrop Outerwear Textiles Inc. #140 1140 Austin Ave Coquitlam, BC V3K 3P5 604-936-5236 The MacPhee Workshop - inovative outerwear patterns/fabrics/notions - several locations, they're into painting, appliques, furs, etc head office address is: RR 8 Edmonton, AB T5L 4H8 403-973-3516 ; FAX 403-973-6216 Naturebound - they sell outerwear/packs/sleeping bag kits with the PO 1299 pieces cut out for you Brockville, ON K6V 5W2 613-345-5487; 1-800-267-5487 Mary Maxim - needlework, knitting, crochet, plastic canvas, 75 Scott Ave rug hooking, kits Paris, ON N3L 3G5 519-442-2266; FAX 519-442-4520 Canadian Knitting Club - yarns (yearly fee gets you all the latest samples) 427 Carnegie St Campbell River, BC V9W 6N5 Briggs & Little Woolen Mills Ltd. York Mills, Harvey Station, NB E0H 1H0 1-800-561-YARN (in canada); phone & fax 506-366-5438 Supplies for Dyeing Fabric: Pro Chemical and Dye P.O. Box 14 Somerset MASS 02726 (508) 676-3838 1-800-2BUY-DYE - Catalog is free. Dyes for cottons, wools, silks, marbling, painting, silkscreen, batik, etc. Batik wax and fabric. Rupert, Gibbon and Spider, Inc. P.O. Box 425 Healdsburg, CA 95448 (800) 442-0455 - free catalog. Scarf blanks, dyes, equipment, paints. Dharma Trading Company (handling inquiries for Brooks and Flynn who are no longer in business; 3/93) (800) 542-5227 - many different silk fabrics: scarves, clothing and yardage. Cerelean Blue P.O. Box 21168 Seattle WA 98111 (800) 676-8602 206-323-8600; FAX: 206-726-9279 - free catalog Earth Guild 33 Haywood St., Asheville, NC 28801 1-800-327-8448 - almost all dye supplies, including Lanaset dyes. Competitive prices. Catalog has useful information. Test Fabrics PO Box 420 Middlesex, NJ 08846 (908) 469-6446 - very wide selection of prewashed fabrics with no dyes or finishes. Very nice fabric, but somewhat expensive. Thai Silks 252 State St. Los Altos, CA 94022 (800) 722-7455 (in CA 800-221-7455) 415-948-8611 FAX: 415-948-3426 - Large selection of silk scarves for dyeing. Also other types of (colored) silk fabric for sewing! Exotic Silks 1959 Leghorn Street Mountain View, CA 94043 800-845-SILK 415-965-7760; FAX: 415-965-0712 - Low prices; discounts for orders over 15 yards of a single fabric. Some (all?) orders require a $100 minimum per order. I believe this is the wholesale arm of Thai Silks. If you do not have a business you might not be able to order from Exotic Silks. Sources For Books, including Out of Print Needlework Books: Hard-To-Find-Needlework-Books Bette Feinstein 96 Roundwood Rd. Newton MA 02164 (617) 969-0942 - Used books in a wide range of textile subjects. Some remaindered books, but most of the books are used. Sewing, quilting, embroidery, knitting, etc. Catalogs for specific crafts are available one or two times a year. Wooden Porch Books Lois Meuller RT1 Box 262 Middlebourne, WV 26149 - Charges $3 for next 3 catalogs. Used books I believe. R.L.Shep Box 668 Mendocino, CA 95460 - 1990-91 catalog has 1000 items. $2.50 catalog. Books, magazines and reprints. Books related to the costume and textile arts, including out of print and hard to find books. Shep has also reprinted a number of older clothing books, including a couple of books of patterns for Victorian and Edwardian clothing. Catalog warns that Shep is sometimes slow at shipping; I believe it suggests 4-6 weeks to fill orders. Unicorn Books 1338 Ross St Petaluma, CA 94954-6502 1-800-289-9276 (1-800-BUY-YARN) 707-762-3362; FAX: 707-762-0335; Hours (as of 3/93): 9am - 5pm Pacific Std Time, Mon - Fri - Includes basketry, business of crafts, color, costume, dyeing, embroidery, fabric decoration, fashion, history, ethnic, hand and machine knitting, lace making, quilting, spinning and weaving, tailoring, pattern drafting, plus even other stuff. A 48 page catalog of closely-typeset descriptions (newspaper style), all of fiber-related books. As of 1992 there appear to be separate catalogs one each for sewing- and weaving- related crafts. Unicorn has reasonable return policies, cheap shipping, and extensive descriptions. Most (all?) of the books are new, but many of the books are no longer listed in Books In Print and are difficult to find elsewhere. There are rarely discounts given. Purchase for Less 231 Floresta Portola Valley, CA 94028 - $2 for catalog. Current sewing and textile books heavily discounted. Dover Publications 31 East 2nd St Mineola, NY 11501 - Dover reprints older books that are no longer covered by the original copyright. Most of Dover's books are low-priced paperbacks. You may wish to request the Needlework Catalog and the Pictorial Archive Catalog. Taunton Press (see address above) Interweave Press (see address above) Discontinued Patterns: Sandra Betzina notes that most pattern companies retain copies of their patterns for about a year. You can check with your fabric store or call the pattern companies to check their discontinued stock. Vogue and Butterick 814-943-5281 McCalls 212-880-2624 Simplicity, Style and New Look 1-800-223-1664 Simplicity 1-800-334-3150 Burda discontinued patterns are not available EZ Patterns 118 Florence Ave Evanston IL 60602 See comments in "Questions" column in June/July 1992 Threads (#40). EZ Patterns buys and sells discontinued patterns. Send them the pattern number, company name, sizes and a brief description or sketch. Note that pattern numbers are reused, so you'll need to include the name, number AND description! If you know the year of issue and/or original price this will help. EZ Patterns discourages sending in a request without a pattern number. Several people have mentioned checking Thrift Stores and estate sales for old patterns. For out of print Folkwear patterns, Taunton Press recommends that you call or write to: The Yardstick P.O. Box 912 Ketchem, Idaho 83340 (208) 726-8822 or Two Bobbins Full 323 Main Street Polson, Montana 59860 (406) 883-3643 and include pattern info. Apparently both places say they have a "drawer full" of old Folkwear patterns. See also: The New Fiberworks Sourcebook by Bobbi A. McRae. copyright 1993 by Fiberworks Publications. ISBN 0-944577-06-7 320p. $15.95 + shipping Available from the publisher: Fiberworks Publications P.O. Box 49770E Austin, TX 78765 (512) 343-6112 Mail order sources for all types of fibers and crafts, including weaving, spinning, dyeing, knitting, basketry, quilting, basketry, sewing, paper making, etc. The Fabric and Fiber Sourcebook by Bobbi A. McRae. copyright 1989 by Taunton Press. ISBN 0-942391-18-7 $12.95. Out of print. See New Fiberworks Sourcebook (above) which is the latest edition of this book. The Quilter's Catalog by Vicki Brooks and Linda Stokes. Copyright 1987 by The Main Street Press. ISBN 1-55562-003-5 $12.95 - Often available as a remaindered book. This book contains lots of sources for quilters, but the info in it is getting a bit dated. Designer Source Listing: $19.95 (ppd) from: Carikean Publishing Box 11771 227 E. Ontario St Chicago, IL 60611-0771 312-728-6118 Sections include Beads, Books, Buttons and fasteners, Feather fur and leather, Notions, Labels and tags, Laces and lacemaking equipment, Millinery supplies, Paints and dyes, Patterns, Services, Software, Threads and yarns, Video, Workshops and seminars. I have not personally reviewed this book and I do not know when the current edition (Vol IV) was published. Look through the ads in Sew News or the back of Threads. Acknowledgements; List compiled by: Anne Louise Gockel (alg@cs.cornell.edu) Diane Barlow Close (close@lunch.wpd.sgi.com) Marie-Christine (MAHE-MARIE-CHRISTINE@YALE.EDU) charleen@ads.com (Charleen Bunjiovianna) Marina.Salume@Corp.Sun.COM (Marina Salume) chukran@cactus.org (Rudy E. Chukran) fran@Cadence.COM (Fran Peterson) Emma_Graham.humancomputer@boronia.uts.edu.au Sharon_Zakhour@NeXT.COM (Sharon Zakhour) brandel@access.digex.net melinda.meahan@uttsbbs.uucp (Melinda Meahan) 5) What are the best periodicals and sources for Heirloom Sewing (also known as French Hand Sewing) projects? Heirloom sewing beganas an attempt to recreate some antique clothing, usually the white dresses with lace inserts all over the place. There are many new patterns available. You use fine, lightweight fabrics like cotton voile or batiste, silk, or the "baby" wale corduroy. You add ruffles made from fine imported French laces, and maybe a touch of delicate hand embroidery. Bullion knot roses and shadow embroidery are very popular. About half the patterns have smocking on them, usually on the yoke of a dress. It helps to have a good sewing machine, that can handle delicate fabrics and do some fancy stitching. Originally heirloom sewing was all done by hand (e.g. French Hand Sewing) but there are several books out now on how to do it by machine. Using a machine is a slow process, but it is faster than doing the work by hand. Periodicals Recommended: Sew Beautiful Subscription Dept. 518 Madison St. Huntsville, AL 35801-4286 (205)-533-9586 Creative Sewing Box 99 Lookout Mountain, TN 37350 1-800-443-3127 Both of these publications cover heirloom sewing, and also include other types of sewing techniques. Lots of how-to articles and inspirational photos. Both also include one or more free patterns bound into each issue. The Singer Reference Library book _Decorative Machine Sewing_ includes a section on Heirloom Sewing. Mail Order Sources for Fabrics, Laces and Supplies: The Unique Needle 539 Blossom Way Hayward, CA 94541 415-727-9130 Rumor has it she has a mailing list. Sweet Child of Mine or Sweet Child of Mine 139 East Fremont Avenue 3720 Miramesa Ct. Bldg 116 Sunnyvale, CA 94087 Santa Clara, CA 95051 408-720-8426 Hours: Mon, Tues, Wed from 11-4:30; Sat. 12:30-3:30 pm Home-Sew P.O. Box 4099 Bethlehem, PA 18018-0099 carries some inexpensive entredeux and embroideries. Might be good for practice for someone who is just embarking on heirloom sewing. Nancy's Notions (address above) sells entredeux. Carolea's is a well known place in Sunnyvale, California, but the laces and entredeux there can be a bit more expensive than mail order sources. For patterns for clothing for the American Dolls from the Pleasant Company: Fancywork and Fashion 4728 Dodge Street Duluth, MN 55804 (218) 525-2442 $2 for catalog A nice nightgown pattern called "Julie's Gown" is available from: Susan Oliver A Work of Heart Studio P.O. Box 1477 Nevada City, CA 95959 (916) 265-4433 Also check some of the speciality pattern companies such as Campbells (see the FAQ on historical costuming). Acknowledgements: Marina.Salume@Corp.Sun.COM (Marina Salume) Diane Barlow Close (close@lunch.wpd.sgi.com) Kathie (address unknown) conib@peri.gvg.tek.com (Coni Britten) charleen@ads.com (Charleen Bunjiovianna) 6) Where can I get natural fabrics by mail order? Sewing Sampler Productions PO Box 39, Springfield, MN 56087 (800) 772-5011 or (507) 723-5011 Retail and mail order. $3.50 UPS shipping charge (USA) per order. Regular line of Cotton Club interlock and French Terry (100% Cotton) with matching ribbing. Excellent quality; seems to equal Hanna quality. Interlock and French Terry are $9 yd (1992); supplex is 5.50/yd. They carry Oshkosh and Healthtex fabrics as well as notions like snaps, collars and woven patches. Three catalogs (basics, fashion fabrics, kids). Two swatching services for $10 each. Several newsletters also. Please mention me (Grace Sylvan, Lewiston Drive, San Jose, CA) if you decide to subscribe to the swatching service (and I get a small credit, thanks to you, and you get wonderful swatches delivered to your door). Sew Natural Fabrics by Mail 4650 Bishop Road, Mechanicsville MD 20659 (800) 368-0126 or (301) 373-3067 $3.50 UPS shipping charge (USA) per order. A home business that seems to be expanding into imported cotton laces and pearl buttons and other fancies. (send an SASE for lace and button info). Interlocks, French Terry; several weights, close in quality to Sewing Sampler, but fewer colors, and lower cost. Material $5.50 a yard; interlocks generally $5-$7 a yard (1992). Some matching ribbings (or use the interlock instead). Good selection of wovens - chambray, denim, flannel, shirtings, etc. Petit Bateau striped rib knit, for 3.24/yd (May 92). The Petit Bateau rib seems to wash and wear extremely well, comparable to Hannas. Ultrex, a breathable, waterproof microcoated supplex, good for rain/snow gear and diaper covers. Notions include elastic, the _Easy Sewing_ book series, Stretch & Sew and Kwik Sew patterns. Swatch sets: $1 each for knits, knit stripes, or wovens/linens. Jennifer's Fabric by Mail 53 Yorkshire Rd, Lexington, Ohio 44904 (419) 884-3328 $3.50 UPS shipping charge (USA) per order. A home run business, pretty new (1992). Unique catalog: a) lists which fabrics will coordinate, and b) lists how stretchy the fabric is. Interlocks usually $6.50-$8/yd range, a few for $3-$4/yd; matching ribbing for most. Some fabric that was used Soupcon outfits from last year. Some striped interlocks, Kwik Sew patterns, some sewing books, and no notions (so far). Complete swatch sets are $3.50, free with an order. Acknowledgements: tigger@satyr.sylvan.com (Tigger (Grace Sylvan)) You may wish to write to Grace for the most up to date info. 7) Would anyone like to exchange quilt blocks? Is there a quilting maillist? The QuiltNet maillist is best described as a general quilting support group; discussions concentrate on quilting, but may include some friendly or chatty mail files. Q-Xchg is a maillist strictly for organizing fabric and quilt block exchanges. To subscribe to the QUILTNET maillist, send the following command to listserv@emuvm1.cc.emory.edu SUB QUILTNET firstname lastname To leave the list at any time, use the following command: UNSUB QUILTNET To subscribe or unsubscribe to the Q-XCHG maillist, follow the same directions, but substitute the name Q-XCHG for QUILTNET. Administrative Note: The QuiltNet maillist started at Dartmouth in August 1990 and moved to Cornell in June 1992. In December 1993 it moved again to it's current home at Emory. The Q-Exchange maillist was created in December 1993. The current maillist administrator is Becky Brunner. Of course, quilters are also encouraged to use rec.crafts.quilting for quilting discussions and exchanges. 8) I've just been given my Great Grandmother's sewing machine. Can anyone help me fix it or restore it? > Gosh, the machine I have must be about 60 years old. It's a > treadle machin e that has been motorized. I do not know if I > want to remove the motor or not. Also, the veneer on the > cabinet is in pretty bad shape. I'm going to have it replaced. > Do you have any suggestions? Well, first of all, anything you do to the machine lessens its value as an antique (so I was told) so the first thing to do is to decide whether you want the antique value of the machine or just a really nice, spiffy looking treadle. In my case I wanted a really nice, spiffy looking treadle that could double as my everyday sewing cabinet and also be a nice showpiece. I don't care about the supposed antique value. My Grandmother had abused her treadle and it had been stored for 40 years in my Dad's workshop so you can imagine what it looked like! Gouged, paint-splattered cabinet, dust everywhere, rusted grill work and the head was covered in black grime. The first thing I did was take lots of photos of it from all angles so I would know how to put it back together after taking it apart. Next I took it apart. Then I used very mild paint stripper (3M special gel-type) to remove the varnish from the cabinet pieces and the paint from the iron grill work. I should state right now that you should TEST ALL CHEMICAL YOU PLAN TO USE ON THE MACHINE IN AN INCONSPICUOUS PLACE FIRST!! The paints and varnishes of yesteryear are quite different from those that exist today. Often today's stuff is far too strong for those old finishes to handle. After removing all the paint, I washed the whole thing off with a water- dishsoap mixture and rinsed it all thoroughly. Then I dried everything and let the grill work ``age'' for a few days (lets the iron ``set'' properly). Then I spray painted the iron work with a rust protector followed by a black acrylic gloss. I then sanded the cabinet and ``varnished'' it with a cherry wood urethane. I should mention that most veneers in those days were cherry wood veneers, whereas most today are of oak. Cherry wood is very expensive these days so you might have problems replacing the veneer. I filled in small holes with wood filler and large ones with a combination of glue, wood chips and wood pieces and sanded carefully. Now for the machine head: I should put in here that whatever you do, DON'T clean the machine head with alcohol!!!! The old paints and varnishes that were used at that time are very sensitive to alcohols and such. DON'T USE THEM TO CLEAN YOUR MACHINE!!! I used wd-40 to work through the top layers of grime. Boy was I surprised to find gorgeous gold decals of phoenix's rising from the ashes and such. I VERY GENTLY scrubbed away the rest of the grime using water and dishwashing soap. I let the whole thing dry for two days and then covered the head (brushed on) with several coats of future floor polish. Then I oiled the heck out of the insides using sewing machine oil. Voila! A mear 4 months later (and I thought it was going to be a weekend project! :-) it looks gorgeous! Of course the antique lovers are horrified but I'm very, very happy with the project. Now, if you want to keep the antique value of your machine you are going to have to take a different tact: immediately go to the library and get as many books as you can on restoring antiques. Talk to antique dealers. Etc. This is what I did at first and is what helped me decide that keeping the antique ``value'' was too much work and bother. It can be very rewarding for the right person and the right project, but it just wasn't for me. Singer Service Centers actually still do repair and restore antique machines -- the _real_ service centers (the ones run by Singer, not the ones running in back of a sewing store) have to service and repair all machines made by Singer, not just the current batch. As for whether or not to remove the motor: most early treadles were indeed ``motorized'' aftermarket. That's how the first machines were ``upgraded'' so the owners didn't have to go out and buy one of the ``new'' motorized ones and junk their old machine. You'll have to look at the job very carefully as removing the motor and restoring the machine back to its treadle state might not be as easy as you think. That's where pictures and information about the original machine would help. > Are there any books on this stuff? My treadle doesn't have a > manual. Is t here anything I can do? Singer Company itself can get you a copy of the original manual if you know the model number. Not a catch 22 like you think; a call to your local Singer Service Center and a brief description of the machine results in a model # in most cases (for example, the woman in charge asked what kind of bobbin my machine used and how it loaded (front or side of machine) and from that said ``oh, you have a #128 vibrating shuttle model.'' The charge for an owner's manual is generally around $4. Singer can be reached at 1-908-287-0707 to get the number of the offical service center nearest you. (In Canada call (514) 359-2031.) You can also look in the library for books about old sewing machines. There's a book available through the Santa Clara County Library (Cupertino branch) called _Machine Sewing_ by the Singer Sewing Machine Co. and published in 1923 and updated to contain all Singer machines through 1938. It tells you everything you'd ever want to know about those machines and their attachments. Get it on interlibrary loan if you're interested. (Santa Clara County library system, Cupertino branch, Card catalogue # 646.21 SINGER) This information was contributed by: Diane Barlow Close (close@lunch.wpd.sgi.com) 9) Where can I get an up to date copy of this FAQ? There are four textile related FAQs. The first list concentrates on general sewing questions and supply information and restoring antique sewing machines. The second list concentrates on costuming and historical clothing. The third posting contains a list of books that cover sewing, fitting and pattern drafting. The fourth is an index to quilting FAQs that are maintained by various individuals and are available by email request. When looking for an FAQ list, first do the obvious and check the relevant newsgroup for articles with "FAQ" in the subject line. If you don't know how to check articles marked as read, your sysadmin can tell you. Next, try the group news.answers since this FAQ is crossposted there. Again, your sysadmin can tell you the commands to use in searching. If you cannot find the FAQ on your system, you can retrieve a copy from Jonathan Kamen's archive of periodic postings. For general instructions on the server, send email containing the commands "help" and "send index" (no quotes, separate lines) to mail-server@rtfm.mit.edu For a list of all periodic postings that are archives in news.answers, email the command "send usenet/news.answers/index" to the server. Periodic postings including FAQs are archived at "rtfm.mit.edu" in the directory "/pub/usenet". The textile FAQs are: /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/faq /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/historical-costuming /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/books/part1 /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/books/part2 /pub/usenet/news.answers/crafts/quilting-faq-index via email server: The address of the server is mail-server@rtfm.mit.edu. To retrieve files, send email to the server with a blank subject and one or more of these lines in the body: send usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/faq send usenet/news.answers/crafts/historical-costuming send usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/books/part1 send usenet/news.answers/crafts/textiles/books/part2 send usenet/news.answers/crafts/quilting-faq-index