Archive-name: misc-kids/babyproofing/general Misc.kids Frequently Asked Questions Babyproofing Ideas ======================================================================== ====== = Collection maintained by: Sandra Smith, sandra@cs.toronto.edu Last updated: September 1, 1994 (Originally compiled by: Judith Boxer, huxley!judy@uunet.UU.NET) To contribute to this collection, please send e-mail to the address given above, and ask me to add your comments to the FAQ file on Babyproofing Ideas. Please try to be as concise as possible, as these FAQ files tend to be quite long as it is. And, unless otherwise requested, your name and e-mail address will remain in the file, so that interested readers may follow-up directly for more information/discussion. For a list of other FAQ topics and how to get the archived discussions, ======================================================================== ====== = Andy Lowry is maintaining an Auto Safety FAQ, which might be of interest to readers of this babyproofing FAQ. His email address is lowry@watson.ibm.com. ======================================================================== ====== = vigder@sce.carleton.ca A good suggestion that was on the network a while ago (particularly if you have a gas range): take the knobs off and keep them up high. There was a horrible case in Winnipeg about a year ago where a two or three year old who was supposed to be napping woke up, went into the kitchen, pushed a chair to the stove, climbed up, and turned on the element. His rubber running shoes melted and stuck to the element; he couldn't get off. At our cottage we also have ceiling fans near bunk beds and base board heaters with curtains hanging on them. I take the knobs off these as well so that little hands cannot turn them on. ************************************************************************ ****** * liz@uunet.UUCP@zip.eecs.umich.edu.UUCP When I took Monica for her 9(?) month check up, the nurse asked about baby proofing. I told her we had installed the child proof latches, and she suggested we still take all *poisons* out of the lower cupboards and put them completely out of reach for Monica. She mentioned that automatic dishwasher detergent is often made with lye, and other cleaners are very poisonious as well (anything with ammonia, etc.). Regular dishwashing liquid is not poisonous (according to her). Well, I did it as soon as I got home. All the junk we had under the sink is now in one of our stupid little high cupboards that isnt really very useful, since it is so hard to reach. We keep the dishwasher detergent at the front, and lesser used stuff is at the back, where I need a chair to reach it (my husband is 6'2", and can reach it all 8^( Its a bit more inconvenient, but I have heard *way too many* stories about toddlers defeating the "child-proof" latches! Also, when I go to other people's houses, and notice things that could be dangerous. Toddler-less homes are notorious for under the sink bad things, and require dilligent serveillance on my part, but I have also noticed some stuff at homes *with* toddlers (actually, a friends cottage, where they kept the aspirin and stuff like that in a drawer in the bathroom sink friends, but you cant always do that tactfully!). P.S. One suggestion I have heard is to get down on the floor at baby level, and look around for stuff that could be hazardous. I did that, and ended up tying lamp cords off the floor--something I hadnt thought of from 5'4" ! ************************************************************************ ****** * jimpt@uunet.UUCP@tektronix.TEK.COM.UUCP@tekig6.PEN.TEK.COM.UUCP Sunset has a book called "Making Your Home Child Safe" that I found to be quite helpful. It covers a lot of details inside and out. For cabinet latches, we used 2 different kinds. One has a sharp point and horizontal ridges on the inside of the point where it catches on the cupboard door. It is GREAT. The other kind has a slightly rounded point (on the part that attaches to the door) and is smooth. This kind is junk. Sorry I don't remember the brand names. For drawers, we used Gerber latches on the 1st child. They were fine until she was about 18 months, then she figured them out. We added a second latch to each drawer and it took her 2 days to realize she just needed to open both of them at once. We gave up on drawers with #2. ---------------------------------------------------- >For brands: the "one with the sharp point and horizontal ridges on the inside >of the point where it catches on the cupboard door" (I haven't figured out >which brand this is yet), and the Gerber single piece units (from Perfectly >Safe). I was in a store today, so looked at the cupboard latches. The Kinderguard ones qualify as the "one with the sharp point and horizontal ridges on the inside of the poin" We had purchased them at first and later needed to add more. I grabbed some that looked similiar, but the point wasn't aointed and didn't have the ridges. A good tug easily defeated the second kind and the kids were soon opening the doors with the bad latches faster than we were. I don't know if it was mentioned, but if you have stair railing along an upstairs hallway or deck railing that has the balisters more than 3 or 4 inches apart, you need to look into netting of some sort to keep children from falling through the railing. ************************************************************************ ****** davej@techbook.COM ...!{tektronix!nosun,uunet}techbook!davej A recent example tells me it will have to be combination locks. Two days ago Jilly unlocked the padlock on the toolbox in the garage. She had seen Daddy do it once. And the key was up on a shelf she had to get a chair to get. When I asked her why she did that (Now here is where the child induced brain damage is apparent. I asked a two year old why she did something.) she said "My Hammer!" and then proceeded to go over and try to pound a nail into the wall. She had a picture she had made and wanted to hang. - To finish the story, I distracted her, and then framed the picture (more of a scribble, actually). Her and I then hung it in her room. I will keep it for my office later. And I got a combination lock. :) ---------------------------------------------------- The only suggestion I can really make is that nothing is baby-proof. It is rather like watches that aren't water proof, they're water resistant. You can make a house baby proof I suppose, but you can only make it toddler- resistant. :) Our daughter, at 15 months then, brought me handfulls of electric outlet covers. I kept putting them back while she wasn't watching, she kept bringing them to me. She is two tommorrow, and lately has been bringing me stuff from "protected" areas. So far the only thing I have been able to protect completely has been the shop which is behind a combination lock. ************************************************************************ ****** Wisconsin glen@cs.wisc.edu Determine whether there are any rooms they can lock themselves into. Ethan likes to lock himself in the bathroom. Fortunately, I was at my desk when my wife called. She remembered that there was a gizmo to open the bathroom door, but she didn't remember where it was. Also, fortunately the toilet lid was locked. We started locking it as soon as he opened it the first time. Now he plays with the lock, but he doesn't expect to be able to open the lid, even when someone forgets to lock it. Now I try to make sure that any sitter knows how to unlock the door. We keep it shut normally. And when he stays at someone else's house I mention the potential problem. Our other bathroom door has a lock which we hadn't even noticed, since we don't use it. There is no easy way to open it from the outside, so I'm glad he didn't find it first. I disabled it by putting a screw partway into the hole in the door jamb, so the deadbolt hits the screw and cannot latch. The doorknob latch is separate, and unaffected. A small tragedy happened Saturday when Ethan was with the sitter at a conference at a hotel. He locked himself into the room, and locked the sitter and another child out. She left him there and went down to them main desk for help. I think he has recovered by now, but he certainly had some extra crying to do for a while. ---------------------------------------------------- I keep thinking of new things. Watch out for wastebaskets! Ours is locked away under the sink, but Ethan still managed to transfer a couple of spoons from the dishwasher to it, which was lucky to notice while taking out the trash. And Madeleine's keys are long gone. But we still have the remote controls. :-) ************************************************************************ ****** * lauraf@notavax.JPL.NASA.GOV A real important thing to remember is to never let your child see how you open a baby proofed item! Make sure your body shields the action. It is much easier for a child to figure them out of the see you do it. Ideally you never even want your child to realize there is somehing there. ************************************************************************ ****** * judyd@pendragon.CNA.TEK.COM Besides the usual cabinet latches and electrical outlet covers, removing cleaning stuff and medicines, etc., if you have a dog, be sure you store the dog food where the baby can't get into it, and don`t leave the dog's food out on the floor. Some kinds of kibbles are perfect choking size. Also, if you have blinds, make sure you have hooks next to the windows or something you have hang the strings up on when the blinds are open. The strings can hang down far enough for a kid to get tangled up in. Dishwasher detergent is poisonous, so if you keep it under your sink like we used to, you might want to move it to a higher location. A lot of house plants are poisonous, but I'm not sure which ones. You can put doorknob covers on any doors that the baby can lock himself into or out of, so he can't open the door in the first place. I've read that toddlers can drown in 5-gallon buckets by falling in head first then not being able to get out. (Our solution to this is to never wash the car.) Some things in our house we never babyproofed, because I wanted our kid to learn about stuff. For example, he always has had access to toilets and our stereo and the stairs, without any problem. I suppose if he had ever shown more interest in the toilets, I would have put locks on the lids. However, by the time he was big enough to lift the lid, he wasn't interested in the toilets (aside from throwing in the occasional shoe to see Mom's reaction). Sometimes you never know what might pose a hazard to a little baby. I read not long ago about an aquarium that leaked into a baby's crib and the baby drowned because the water puddled on his mattress and he was too little to lift his head. I remember reading a posting in this group that I thought was a good suggestion. The poster suggested getting down at baby's-eye-level and looking around to see what you can get into that could possibly hurt you. ************************************************************************ ****** * sg@uunet.UUCP@tredysvr.Tredydev.Unisys.COM.UUCP In my book, by **far** the best latches are the Gerber single piece units sold thru the Perfectly Safe catalog (1-800-837-kids). We have 2 children, and have lived in 2 different houses, own at least 50 latches of at least 4 or 5 different manufacturer, and will now only buy the Gerber ones. There are two reasons. The first one is that most latches are two pieces, and when mounting them, you **must** mount them aligned, or they won't work. Most allow some adjustment in one piece, or both, to make it so you don't have to mount them perfectly. The problem is that over time, the screws holding the pieces loosen the tiniest amount, and let the piece move ever so slightly. They are usually designed such that the slip makes it easier to get the drawer or cabinet open by simply yanking on it hard enough. Of course, you can reposition and retighten the latch, but if your child gets in even once, it can be disasterous, dangerous, or just plain annoying, depending on what is in the drawer/cabinet. The Gerber one piece latches are different (Perfectly Safe carries both one and two piece latches by Gerber). They are a strong plastic hook sort of shape, with a spring. If you think of an ordinary kitchen cabinet, you would mount the piece on the door. When you swing it closed, the "hook" catches on the inside of the facing of the cabinet. Due to the shape of the hook, it basically closes without problem. But, it won't open. To open it, you push down on the latch, against the pressure of the spring. There are a few places they won't work, particularly on drawers that simply have a flat, solid surface above them (some center front desk drawers are like this, among others), but we use them everywhere we can. If you can put the latch out of reach (like high on a tall kitchen cabinet), that is best. Kids differ a lot in how much they will fiddle with your childproofing. The "average" child will make a few attempts, then give it up, and they quickly learn what is latched and what isn't. Other kids, however, have a strong drive to overcome obstacles, and they will drive the childproofing methods to their limits. In cases like that, two latches will help. Some people use toilet latches to keep the lid down. I used a wait and see attitude; since neither of my kids ever showed the slightest inclination to mess with them, I haven't used the toilet latches. My kids also did not mess with the outlet covers more than a few times each, so I use the "standard" ones that simply push in to the outlet. There are more sophisticated ones available, but they are more expensive and harder for the parent to get at the plug when needed. (By the way, when we travel, we always take a long a baggie of outlet caps for whereever we spend time -- hotel rooms, Grandmother's house, etc.) If you can run electrical cords behind furniture, do so. If you can't, see if you can put some of the cord under the furniture itself, to make it so a tug on one end of the cord doesn't bring the object tumbling down. For example, a table lamp on a living room end table can have the cord run under one of the feet for the table. In addition, you can get what amount to plastic "C" clamps; they are used for lamps, etc -- you can use the clamp to hold the cord tight against the edge of the table so that the child cannot pull on the rest of the cord, and have the item tumble down on them. These are not exactly beautiful, but they are very effective for places where there are no other choices. Padding edges are another debatable case. In both our houses, we have had a fireplace hearth raised 1 brick high, with the sharp edges just waiting to dent a baby head. We used a wait and see attitude with that too, and never had to do anything. However, you can make your own thick padding with an old towel, duct tape, and padding, or you can buy a variety of paddings. At some point, every child grows too large to waltz under the dining table the way they do at the beginning, but I never felt that was worth doing much about -- you watch them, try to stop them, and they learn fast. Baby gates are an obvious class of stuff that probably needs no mention. When you start to give the baby baths in a full sized tub, you can get "spout guards" to protect the child from bumping into it. You can also get things that cover the knob(s) that can prevent a bad burn, should the child pull on the faucet (accidentally, or on purpose). And, of course, you need a non-skid mat or non-skid stickers on the bottom of the tub. No matter how you try, kids always wind up standing in the tub. There are all manner of specialty things, from latches for 'fridges, microwaves, and ovens, to guards for the front of a stove, to VCR locks (keeps the child from pushing in fingers, pizzas, blocks, and oatmeal). Whether or not you need them depends on your child, yourself, and your house. A locking file cabinet can be a great addition to your house -- it may not look good, but a metal one can be used to lock up cleaners and other dangerous objects. I really recommend the Perfectly Safe catalog. You can scan thru the catalog and learn a lot. Sometimes creativity and a few supplies are all you need. If you have a vertical "stack" of drawers with handles, you can run a broomstick down thru them; by the time the child can get past it, you may not need it anymore. We have a sort of free standing wet bar with sides that swing out to reveal a collection of glassware, etc, and my daughter **loved** to open it and throw the stuff around. There was no obvious way to use a commercial latch of any kind to secure it, but it finally occurred to me that I could jam a matchstick in the hinge, and she hasn't figured it out yet (she is 19 months). And so it goes...a parent's work is never done! Hope all this is helpful. If you have any specific questions, let me know, and I'll do my best. ************************************************************************ ****** * We have purchased something called a Child Safe for medicines (actually we have three - one in each bathroom for medicine, and one in the kitchen for knives). It is a plastic box (~16" x 10" ?) with a hinged door. The latch is on the inside; in order to reach the latch to open the door you have to have an adult-length finger. The placement of the latch (e.g. the finger length required to reach the latch) is adjustable with a simple screwdriver. This seems much safer to me than the simple cabinet latch. We have those too, and so far our 1-yr old has not figured them out, but I'm sure she's close. The Child Safe is available from the Right Start catalog (1-800-548- 8531) for around $20 or $30 ... I can't remember. ************************************************************************ ****** * gordonb@mcil.comm.mot.com úÿ úÿ(Continued from last message) Don't forget bookcases! We can mark Azriel's (1-yr minus 4-days) growth by which shelf he insists on emptying. *sigh* Now if he would only READ them instead if EATING them... :-} ************************************************************************ ****** * mikey@shuksan.boeing.com First, it is important to realize that there is no such thing as "child proof" (adult proof yes, but it can't stop a child!). The best thing to do is get down on your hands and knees, crawl around the house looking for anything you can to hurt yourself with. It's amazing the things you can find down at that level!! There are a number of books out which cover a lot of this stuff. If you can find it, the "Childwise Catalog" is pretty good. As our pediatrition told us at our son's 1 year checkup "you have done a good job of raising him so far, however, for the second year, your job changes. It becomes one of suicide prevention!" He wasn't kidding!! ---------------------------------------------------- I got the childwise catalog over at walden books, however, it is several years old, and many places don't seem to carry it. Try calling the larger book stores in your area. One thing we did that has worked well for us - we have a raised hearth on our woodstove (brick). I put that polyfoam pipe insulation you can get for protecting pipes from freezing over the edges (cut a 90 degree section out so it fits the edge. You can glue it on or whatever works for you. It also works well on the legs of our 80 gallon aquarium - provides a reasonable amount of padding. I built a stereo cabinet in the corner of the living room that hinges out on a piece of water pipe. This allows me to have easy access to the back and yet when it is closed, little hands can not reach anything!! Works great. The other thing I have done for some wires (aquarium etc) is to use that white 2 inch PVC pipe used for built in vacs. I run the wires thru that with the 90 degree fitting on the end over the outlet. Keeps the busy little hands elsewhere (and into other trouble I might add ;-) ). One last thing that I did was to drill several holes in the upper track of the sliding glass door which go thru the top edge of the door with a 1/4 inch drill. I then made a "pin" from a piece of 1/4 inch steel (a bolt would work). By proper choice of location, I can pin the door closed (providing additional security), 5 inches open (ventilation) or all the way open. This allows you some ventilation while at the same time, the little ones can not get their fingers crunched in the door! ---------------------------------------------------- Yesterday (1-6-92) on a local station (KOMO) there was a show called "Northwest Afternoon" (60min). They were talking to parents who had either lost children due to drowning, poisoning or had had close calls. There were some scary things that were brought up I thought I would mention for the benifit of the net. One child was essentially a vegatable due to baby oil!! When he was 17 mo?, he drank a bottle of baby oil (mineral oil). No one was too worried at the time, however, within the hour, his breathing became irregular etc. Turns out he had apparently coughed and inhaled some into his lungs. By the time they got him stable, he was a vegatable due to brain damage - very sad to see. The Dr. on the show mentioned the fact that if they eat a whole tube of toothpaste, it is possible to get a lethal dose of flouride. They also had several people who had lost their children on a waterbed, and drowning in a tub with just a few inches of water. They stressed the importance of knowing what to do for a choking infant (face down on your leg with their head protruding past your knee - three sharp slaps with your open hand in the middle of their back, then listen for sounds of breathing). One woman had almost lost her daughter when she choked on a piece of carrot which lodged in her windpipe - the child was ok, but it took surgical measures to remove the carrot. Peanuts were mentioned as the worst for kids, since if they are inhaled, they will lodge in the lung and breakup. This may require removal of part of the lung to get!! They also mentioned draino (lye crystals) - if a child eats some, DON'T give them water - it activates the stuff!! Call poison control IMMEDIATLY!!! That is all I can remember (I missed the first 1/2 of the show), but it was spooky listening to the people talk about the baby oil etc (they sued Johnson and Johnson and only partially won - they got money, but J & J would not put a warning on the label which is what they really wanted to have to prevent others from the same thing (It was sad - they had both boys there - they were twins - the "ok" one was alert, interactive and really a nice little boy - the one that got the oil obviously had no idea even where he was :-( ) ---------------------------------------------------- where a discussion has been going on about making things for kids/babies. The issue it addresses is a key to us all!! > Recently there have been a number of messages in the newsgroup > regarding children's furniture and suggesting that items like > toyboxes are more useful, along with a warning about safe design > to prevent falling lids from banging fingers, etc. > There is a MUCH MORE CRITICAL SAFETY ITEM ON TOYBOXES: VENTILATION!! > I used to be a volunteer EMT. One of my early life squad runs was > on a young child (put to bed for a nap) who got out of bed and > crawled into the toy box and fell asleep there. He never awoke. > Despite our CPR efforts and the hospital's efforts, he could not > be revived. > Although its been 15 years and a thousand other emergency runs have > come and gone, I still shudder every time I see an unventilated > toy box in a store. > Ken at our son's 1 year checkup, the Dr. told us that our job had changed- it had gone from simply taking care of a baby to suicide prevention! He wasn't kidding!! Hope this helps even 1 child!! ************************************************************************ ****** * ljy@uunet.UUCP@mvuxd.att.com.UUCP Add another story to your list: I recently *watched* my two year old daughter open a "child-proof" cap for decongestant medicine. I *know* the cap was properly put on, because I tested it before she reached up and got it. Incredible....these "child-proof" caps! ************************************************************************ ****** * iwanaga@uunet.UUCP@hubble.IFA.Hawaii.Edu.UUCP we had a unique babyproofing of our home. one of our friends, who had a two year old toddler, volunteered to "lend" us their daughter. the family ame to visit and while tanya roamed the house, one of the adults was always following her. she would point at unusual things - anything that caught her eye. we found a dime, a penny, some spray cans that had been missing for a while. i guess that, as we grew older, what was unusual for kids became normal for us, so when we went down on all fours to look, we missed all that. ************************************************************************ ****** * We had a very close call with our TV several years ago. The TV and VCR are on a very stable TV stand, and I judged that the stand could not be overturned by a toddler. This turned out to be a correct judgement, but I didn't consider the TV itself. The TV is a standard 19" color model. So much of the electronics in modern TV's is solid state that the picture tube itself is the only component with any significant weight. Even though these things are 18" deep, the center of gravity is VERY close to the front of the cabinet. If you pull down on the top front of a TV, it only takes a small amount of force (20 lbs) to topple it forward. So, I was in the living room doing something when Brian (then ~18mo) stepped onto the VCR, grabbed the top of the TV, and tried to climb higher. The TV tipped forward, he fell backwards onto the floor, and the TV fell 2' and landed flat on his chest and thighs. As I ran over I thought he was dead. In this case we just got lucky -- he wasn't hurt at all, just scared. The TV landed flat, so there were no broken bones, not even bruises. And it landed on his toddler "beer belly", not his head, which would have shattered the picture tube with disastrous consequences. That night I put eye-bolts in the back of the TV and fastened them to the TV stand. Oh. I guess I need to say this for legal/ethical reasons: messing with your TV can subject you to lethal electric currents, so don't do this unless you know what you are doing. ************************************************************************ ****** * paulg@pyrhard2.eng.pyramid.com During the last "big" quake, I found almost all my components toppled or fell from their stands, off my computer desk etc. (Read: my house looked as if it had been turn upside down) There was quite a bit of damage. To prevent anything like this from happening again, I bought a few reels of industrial weight velcro and placed it all over my house, mating tv to stand, computer to desk etc... It hadn't occured to me, until after I read this message, that I might also have just childproofed my house, for my daughter, who though still very young and not so mobile, manages to generate at least a 7.0, in our house. :) I could round up the name of the company that supplies this stuff, if you're interested. ************************************************************************ ****** * clare@uunet.UUCP@nynexst.com.UUCP I'd like to add something to the FAQ. Beware of loose sheets and thin shawls in the crib. My baby managed to wrap one around his neck several times while still very young. I think he grabbed an end and turned over. Luckily he was okay, but it's a potential danger. ************************************************************************ ****** * Watch out for table cloths. To a small child, these look like wonderful "handles" for pulling one's self to a standing position. Unfortunately, also a very good way to pull all manner of "nasty" objects off the table. We finally had to remove a little round, decorator table until Brandon learned not to pull himself up by the tablecloth. Oven doors also have the "convenient" handle on them. Brandon scared us one night when he pulled open the door to a hot oven. (No injury, thankfully!) ************************************************************************ ****** * advax@reg.triumf.ca First, a bit of background. In Britain, where I grew up, the household electricity is about 240 Volts. The electric outlets are somewhat kid-proofed, in that the live and neutral sockets have shutters on them operated by the ground pin, which is longer than the others. Some of the plugs on appliances have insulating material on the side of the pins, too, so that sliding a metal object behind an inserted plug is relatively safe. On the debit side, until recently moulded plugs were very rare, and most appliance plugs were fitted to the cord by people with little aptitude and inadequate tools. In Canada, where I am living now, the electicity is 110 Volt (still lethal), and the outlets are cheaper, consisting of a round socket for the ground and two slots for the live and neutral. The slots are too small for fingers but just right for paperclips, knives, etc. The stores sell a wide variety of gadgets to kid-proof your outlets. We have dozens of little plastic two-legged things that plug into the slots (for places we hardly ever use the outlet), clamp-like devices (for places we never take the appliance out, like an electric clock), rotating shutters (for places where appliances are plugged in frequently, but not for very long, like the vacuum cleaner), and lockable boxes that go over the outlet (for places where appliances stay in for some time but not continuously, like the computer. And then you can get Ground-Fault Interrupter (GFI or ELCB) breakers, which are supposed to trip if current goes down the live wire and not all of it came back the neutral wire, which we have in the bathroom and outside the house. I have never tried one to see if it works (by sticking my finger on a live wire), though supposedly it will cut the current before too much happens to you. Now, what I was going to say: We had a sewing machine set up on a table. The cord was secured in the outlet with one of the above-mentioned gadgets. Our 14-month old wanders in and pulls the cord out of the sewing machine. We were right there and took it away from her. Someone else might not be so lucky. There are many appliances where the cord has a socket on the end which mates with a plug on the appliance (sewing machines, computers and electric kettles spring to mind). The holes in the socket are too small for fingers, but it is just possible that a toddler might put the end in his/her mouth, and be badly burnt if nothing else. Later I secured the socket permanently to the machine with a Ty-Rap (a tough plastic whatsit that electricians use to secure cables, like the police on TV use to handcuff people). I think the machine is too heavy for her to pull down. I have also seen gadgets to clamp appliance cords to tables. So, yet another thing to look for when you toddler-proof your home. ************************************************************************ ****** * The latches that you attach inside the cabinet and cabinet door are very popular, and work quite well. Look for the metal ones, they hold up better than the plastic ones. Also, if you have cabinets that are not solid wood (at the time, we had pressed particle board with formica fronts - the simulated wood grain look), they are really difficult to install because it is so hard to drill into them even with a power drill. Gerber makes a large latch (looks like a safety pin or a combination lock) that you can loop through the handles of two mated doors - these only work if the handles are fairly close together. ************************************************************************ ****** * 154s@oasys.dt.navy.mil Try fireplace guards. You'll have to hook them into the wall though, or she'll be able to pull them down. I recommend the kind that have the very heavy mesh. ************************************************************************ ****** * judy@bitstream.com I strongly recommend that anyone with children (and without!) install Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) plugs at all outlets in the kitchen, bathroom, and outdoors! They will stop the flow of electricity if an appliance touches water, and prevent electrocution. They are easy to install (they come with directions - but don't do it if you don't know how to turn off the main power switch). If you can't do it yourself, it's well worth the money to have a handyman or electrician do it for you. These are the plugs you see in new homes and hotels that have the test/reset button in the middle. They only cost a few dollars and could save your child's life! Also, if you already have these type of plugs, make sure you test them monthly. It's easy: plug something in (nightlight, hair dryer) and press the test button. It should stop working. Then press reset - it should start working again. ************************************************************************ ****** * staffan@ca.serum.kodak.com >I strongly recommend that ... install (GFCI) plugs at all outlets in the >kitchen, bathroom, ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Actually, you only need one per circuit, installed at the beginning of the circuit. All down-stream receptacles will be protected. You can also accomplish this with a ground-fault circuit breaker on those circuits (if you have breakers). Also, I think the original advice still stands - no sense testing a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) by actually having an accident! --------------------------------------------------- Those plastic links available in most toy stores - the ones that are approx 2" long with a slit in one side for linking in others - make good cabinet latches when strung between handles (until the child learns how to undo them). Long nylon belts - often marketed as luggage straps, etc., in department or home improvement stores - work great for strapping shut free-standing furniture with doors, such as desks or television and stereo cabinets. The buckle can be twisted around to the back to prevent easy access. Besides temperature-monitoring faucets, etc., hot water burns can be avoided by simply turning down the hot water tank thermostat, so that the hottest water that can come out of a faucet is not hot enough to burn. (I believe that this is an energy saver, as well). Tall, heavy furniture can topple and crush a child. Open bookcases are one of the worst threats, because they can be toppled by a child climbing up the shelves. This can be made safer by using hooks & eyes to securely anchor the top of the furniture to the wall. Be conscious about leaving choking hazards laying around, such as open bowls of hard candy, loose change, etc. When taking care of poisons in the kitchen and bathrooms, don't neglect the basement and garage - there's no time like the present! Be aware of crib strangulation hazards: bars too far apart (head can be forced through & caught), loose/long bumper fastening straps (child can get tangled in straps or caught under bumper), posts or other things which can hook clothing near the top of the rails or end pieces (child can be strangled by own clothing). Watch out for furniture or items which can allow a child to climb up on to a window sill or above, where the child can put weight on the glass and/or fall through. A couple kitchen things: It's a good habit to get into to push all hazardous objects to the far back of the counter (e.g. when putting down a knife, etc.) If no other drawers are child-proofed, the knife drawer is a good one. It's also a good idea to wash and put away knives as soon as possible after using them. Don't tempt fate. It's not worth the risk of carrying the boiling spaghetti water to the sink, even if you think the child is safely out of the path. Have someone else pick the child up for a minute, or toss a ball into an adjacent room to get them out of harms way long enough. úÿ úÿ(Continued from last message) I didn't see many references to outdoor child-proofing, but I though I might throw in a couple comments: Outside hazards fall into about 3 categories - natural, such as poison berries and plants, thorns, well holes, cliffs, water, etc., non- natural, such as poisons, hot grills, stacked concrete blocks, flaking paint, tons of stuff in the typical garage, etc., and incidental. The natural and non-natural are pretty self-explanatory, the incidental, I wanted to comment on because I've always been embarrassed about a near accident we had. In this category I would put things like not taking children for rides on a riding lawn mower, etc. I think it's a fairly good rule to not have children around at all when power equipment is being used. Our near accident occurred when my wife and I were installing a new front walk and stairway (the entrance to the house is on the second level). This involved moving a lot of dirt, and we were using a tractor and trailer to haul the dirt around. The baby was safely (!) sequestered a good distance away, napping in his playpen under a tree. Everything was fine until a sheared hitch pin sent a trailer full of dirt down the hill, with enough momentum to make it all the way to the playpen. How close? It tore one side of the playpen. It took us days to stop shaking, weeks before we could talk calmly about it, and the feeling of dismay that it happened has never left. I guess the positive thing we can take away from it is how hard it is to predict what can happen, and how fast things can happen. Now, I would put this in the same category as not tempting fate in the kitchen - the child _can't_ be hurt if he/she isn't there! ************************************************************************ ****** * cma@cbnewsm.cb.att.com Don't know if this is too late or not, but I remember some people asking about fireplace hearth corner guards and table corner/coffeetable guards. I just got this catalog, "One Step Ahead", that has such items. Call them for a catalog at 1-800-950-5120 M-F 8am-8pm CST and Saturdays 8am-4pm CST. This is from their 1992 Holiday catalog. ************************************************************************ ****** * fisher@lyra.hac.com Deantha (dam@ouray.denver.colorado.edu) wrote: : We just acquired a house with an in-ground swimming pool. : I need some ideas on how to make it *totally* kid proof. Nothing short of filling it in will make it totally kid proof. If you do decide to keep it, here are some ideas: A pool alarm, which will sound if a child falls in. I understand there are a number on the market, but I'm afraid I can't recommend any brands. Anybody else? Another idea is a locking cover; these kind of scare me too, though. Kids may think it's fun to get underneath, and I wonder how well they lock. Swimming lessons are a good idea -- keep the gates locked, and make sure that by the time your kids are old enough to climb fences they are excellent swimmers. Keep any ladders, etc., locked up. Also, keep fun looking pool toys locked up or out of sight to avoid temptation. Also be sure that all the members of the family can swim and learn CPR as well. It sounds like your pool area is kind of a thouroughfare from the garage to some part of the yard. If this is so, I would strongly encougage you to change this if at all possible. If the pool area is only entered when the pool is in use, and preferably only has one entrance, it will be a lot easier to make sure it is always locked. A bell, chime, or some equivalent on the gate to the pool is also a good idea for those occasions when someone leaves it unlocked. ************************************************************************ ****** * macal001@maroon.tc.umn.edu I just wanted to add a point about household sewing machines. I often leave my sewing machine set up in my sewing room. The man who fixes my machine told me recently that when he was a child, he "sewed" the needle of his mother's sewing machine through the palm of his hand. He recommends ALWAYS pulling out the clutch (the turny wheel part on the side that you pull out when you want to wind a bobbin and not have the needle go up and down)when leaving the machine, even to answer the phone. Unplugging it doesn't necessarily work; my kids (2 and 3 yrs) have plugged mine in...but they haven't figured out how to push in the clutch yet! Without the clutch pushed in they can't make the needle go up and down. ************************************************************************ ****** * dwillis@relay.nswc.navy.mil My husband and I have learned something the hard way. People should be really careful of the rubber tips on door stops. I couldn't believe Nick crawled all around the house and stripped them off every single door stop we have! We also removed the rest of the stop from the wall, since to point where the rubber tip goes could injure Nick, if he were able to get it out of the wall and run with it. It's a terrifying sight to see a small object in your child's mouth, and the panic that hits you as you try to remove the object before he/she can swallow. ************************************************************************ ****** References: Archive-name: misc-kids/babyproofing/hearths ======================================================================== ====== = Childproofing a Hearth ======================================================================== ====== = hjenter@sparky.er.usgs.gov Thanks to everyone that responded to my original request for hearth child-proofing. Here is a collection of the responses that I received. They're grouped loosely into three categories: 1) physical modifications to the hearth 2) teaching the child to avoid hearths 3) erecting a barrier or placing pads on the hearth I've editted them a little to reduce space. ************************************************************************ ****** * What we did for our hearth that has worked out very well was to get some of those steel angle sheet rock corners (light wt. steel angle iron equiv about 1-1/4 X 1-1/4 inches) and glue polyfoam pipe insulation with a 90 degree wedge cut out of it to the angle. We then screwed the angle to the hearth after drilling small holes with a masonary bit. Works great! and the advantage of using the steel angle instead of gluing directly to the hearth is that when the kids get older etc, it is easy to remove, leaving only the small mounting holes. Of course, you have to watch for them trying to eat the stuff when they are teething (as well as anything else they can wrap their gums around!!) We also used the foam insulation on the aquarium stand that I welded up (80 gallon tank ) for the front room. The pipe insulation comes in 6 foot lengths (I think) and is only a couple of dollars per length. It is avail in a number of sizes, although the most common one seems to be for 1/2 or 3/4 inch pipe. This has an outside diameter of about 2 inches. It is available in off-white, brown, gray and perhaps some other colors. hope that saves someone's head/teeth!! ************************************************************************ ****** * There is a company that advertises in _Mothering_ magazine. Protect your Child from dangerous fireplace hearths. Starts at $39.95, custom built 6 colors. Call 404-717-0088 Baby Bumpers, Inc. 479 Loma St. Liburn GA 30247 Disclaimer: I have not ordered one, and I don't represent the company, just passing on info that I remembered seeing ************************************************************************ ****** * What we did was cover some sheets of 1/2 inch cork with clear contact paper and then fasten that to the fireplace with Liquid Nails. The cork was about the same color as our brick, so it looked ok. It has held up for 3 years. My biggest concern is when we want to sell the house, we may have trouble removing the Liquid Nail spots. ************************************************************************ ****** * the originator will mail you a response as well. Just in case (s)he doesn't, I'll try to summarize what I remember. Take some of that metal or plastic outside corner strip. It is about 3/4" by 3/4". With small cement or brick anchors, or burred nails, attach this to the brick corner of the hearth. Use as few nails as will hold it securely. Then take the foam pipe insulators that you can get at a hardware store. Cut out one quarter of the insulator, and glue it to the metal stripping. This provides a nice cushioned corner. When you are ready to remove it, all you will be left with is the few small nail holes you used to hold the metal stripping in place. I'll _try_ to do an ascii sketch, but who knows if it will help you understand what I mean! ____ / \ Foam Pipe / __\ Cover | | ______ Metal Corner stuff \ | | ________________________ \___| | | | | Brick Hearth | | EDITORIAL NOTE: I received a phone call from Mike Fields who described this solution in great detail. He may have been the original poster mentioned above. Thanks, Mike. --Harry ************************************************************************ ****** * If you cant baby proof it, then the best thing to do is to teach him how to climb up and down safely. I have some cement steps in my front and back yard, and that's what we did. ************************************************************************ ****** * We have a similar situation--brick fireplace which is never used, but it's one of the only Off-Limits areas we have in our place left :-). We just instituted a simple rule: the fireplace hearth was off-limits. So, when Dylan started making his way over there, we would say (very calmly and in a normal voice) "off-limits." Then, we would pick him up and transport him to a safer area, and try to distract him with something fun to play with. He would keep testing (at 10 months, so will your son, I imagine) but after being faced with the same, exact reaction from us, he soon tired of the test. We wanted to save using "no" for really serious things, like life or limb-threatening situations. BTW, he started crawling over to the fireplace at about 7 months, and now, at 15 months, he rarely even looks that way, because he knows what will happen--consistency is all important in the early limits placing, IMHO. We don't make it fun for him to go to the off-limits areas (no swooping in the air, for instance), but will make it more fun for him to avoid that area. Friends of ours took a different tack--they surrounded the hearth with big pillows in case their sons took a fall. Well, unfortunately, that worked only for a little while, until the kids were big enough to push the pillows out of the way. And, it didn't help the kids learn that *all* fireplace hearths should be off-limits. When we visit other houses, Dylan automatically avoids the hearth areas. Maybe he just doesn't have a fascination with bricks :-) ************************************************************************ ****** * I have the same problem at home. For our first child we had to cut a large cardboard box (I believe it was a windshield box) and tape it around the hearth. It looked tacky as hell but saved our little monster's head. With this new baby (9 months old) we planned ahead. We had my brother-in-law (who works for a plexiglass manufacturing company) make a shield which goes around the three sides of the hearth and is about 24 inches high. All corners are rounded off and the top has a small (4 inch) shelf which faces in towards the fireplace to prevent cuts. The plexiglass doesn't distract from the rest of the home. ************************************************************************ ****** * We never use our fireplace. So I covered the whole lower part with cardboard (leftover from moving boxes). It is still somewhat hard, but at least is not as bad as brick or stone. It also helps a little to have the bends in the cardboard a bit away from the corners they cover. You would have to take it away when you had a fire (it could catch fire). ************************************************************************ ****** * If you don't mind UGLY, I've heard of people finding a box the same size as their fireplace. I covered mine with plywood until we could teach our child to keep away. ************************************************************************ ****** * We had this problem so my husband built a fence around the hearth and covered it with some inexpensive but tough carpetting. ************************************************************************ ****** * We have a free-standing fireplace in the middle of our living room (we didn't design the layout!). It's our primary source of heat, and we have a 3yr old and a 19 mo old, so we need pretty good child-proofing. We use a big child-gate -- I think they're also called portable playyards. It's one of those accordian things made out of panels; each panel about 3 ft long, 18 ft long total. We wrap it all the way around. I bought it at a garage sale for $5. I've seen them in stores (ToysRUs, baby stores) and catalogs for alot more -- about $60-$70. The other similar situtation we had was with the coffee table -- we decided it's an essential piece of furniture, but it's also the source of alot of bumps. When my son was learning to walk, I made a pad out of foam rubber covered with cloth. It wrapped all the way around the table and fastened with velcro. Unfortunately we took it off when he seemed steady on his feet, and didn't put it back on for the 2nd child until AFTER she ran into it with enough force to require 4 stitches. The pad isn't pretty, but neither were the stitches! ************************************************************************ ****** * When our oldest daughter was that age she was fascinated with the hearth (a raised brick platform) also. We stopped having fires, obviously, so we weren't worried about the flammability of a hearth pad. We used an ensolite foam pad, the kind backpackers used to use and held it down with duct tape. It was pretty apparent to anyone who entered our living room that there was a toddler in the house! But of all the tumbles she took that launched her into the hearth she never got so much as a bruise. Gradually the hearth lost its appeal, we removed the foam pad, started having fires again, and found new things to worry about. But I will always remember the time I walked into the living room just as she was climbing onto the hearth and she looked over her shoulder at me and said "no-no. Hot!", laughed, and continued climbing up onto the hearth. ************************************************************************ ****** * We purchased 6 bedsize pillows (inexpensive ones) and my husband's grandmother made covers for them to match the colors in our living room. We prop the pillows up against the fireplace. They have provided an excellent barrier to the bricks. We have not had any accidents so far - thank goodness. We have a 28 mo old and a 14 mo old - both boys who are very rough and tumble with each other. When we use the fireplace, we remove the pillows and are always right there to make sure they don't get burned or bumped. ************************************************************************ ****** * We bought a 2 inch thick piece of foam the length of the hearth and covered it with a blanket. The foam extends over the front edge which is also draped by the blanket so if they hit the top edge, they don't catch the edge of the hearth. We also put some corner guards on the corners. It doesn't look the fanciest, but I am more concerned with my kids' safety. ************************************************************************ ****** * We, too, have an "evil" hearth. For awhile, a thick blanket draped over the hearth worked well. Then James learned how to pull it off. We received a mail-order cat. called "Perfectly Safe." In it they have hearth bumpers you can purchase, but you have to call for a $ estimate. If you're interested, I can bring it in tomorrow and e-mail you their number. ************************************************************************ ****** * The company is called "Perfectly Safe." Their customer service number is 1-800-837-KIDS, Monday - Friday, 0900-1700. They show a similar shield for coffee tables that costs $44.95 to fit tables 93" - 192" around. The hearth guard is pictured on page 22 of their catalogue. If they ask for a number on the mailing label (to see which catalogue you're talking about) it's FA170. -- Harry L. Jenter hjenter@sparky.er.usgs.gov U.S. Geological Survey COM: (703) 648-5890 FTS: 959-5890 Mailstop 430, National Center "Sometimes you're the bug. Reston, Virginia 22092 Sometimes you're the windshield." ************************************************************************ ****** * >From smithdr@mof.govt.nz Thu Jul 2 13:20:10 1992 re: childproofing a woodstove These are used widely in New Zealand. Studies have shown that children rarely touch woodstoves deliberately, as they are usually deterred by the heat. ( Adults are the main culprits, as their faces are generally too far above the stove to feel the heat ) most cases of burns in children are caused by them tripping and falling against the stove. Skin will stick to the glass doors and cause terrible burns. The best safeguard against this is a wrought iron ( or sometimes aluminium ) "cage" around the stove. Even a couple of inches from the stove is effective, as the cage prevents contact with the stove. Although the cage may get hot from radiation, it will not cause burns. Vertical bars twelve inches apart are effective. Here, the cages are made at reasonable cost by people who make gates, fences, pool enclosures, etc. Many are made by D.I.Y . ************************************************************************ ****** * References: Archive-name: misc-kids/babyproofing/gates ======================================================================== ====== = Additional Information on Gates ======================================================================== ====== = California judy@locus.com Well, I can tell you I hate ours. We got one that you don't permanently attach, but it uses a foot clamp that pushes two rubber pads up against the edges of the doorway. Well, it falls out with the slightest provocation. I think it was made by Gerry. Grey with a blue foot pedal. It DOES have hinges you can use to permanently attach it, but we wanted to be able to move it from room to room. ************************************************************************ ****** * robert@jetsun.weitek.COM Every gate I've seen is junk. They all work real hard for a "no tools necessary" installation, and it makes them unreliable, unwieldy, and expensive. I'm looking for a "great big cordless screwdriver required for installation" gate myself. Anybody know of one? Robert Plamondon, robert@weitek.COM ************************************************************************ ****** * saavik@cbnewsj.cb.att.com Sorry, don't have one of those. :-) But I do have one I've been able to live with. I don't know the name but I'll try to describe it. We actually bought it when we had a dog (pre-kids era). It's a white gate with plastic cris-cross mesh with openings about 2 sq.in. on a diagonal. It stays in place very nicely with tension bars at the top and bottom. You have to turn them to tighten against your door jam. It doesn't take much time to tighten or loosen. It's also short enough that I can step over it and I'm 5'4". The kids were unable to climb it due to the small openings. Crude picture alert! ________________________________ )------------------------------( <- there area knobs at the four |/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\| corners that tighten/loosen. |\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/| |/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\| |\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/| |/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\| |\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/| |/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\| |\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/| |/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\| |\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/| )______________________________( -------------------------------- ************************************************************************ ****** * ncramer@bbn.com We found a *great* one (well, two actually) at Somerville Lumber (which, of course, means nothing if you're from outside New England). Unfortunately, we've had it for +3yrs, so I don't remember the brand name or anything. I'm going to steal Pat's picture to give you some idea what it looks like. | | |XI ________________________________ XXX| |XI )------------------------------+---X| |XI |/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\| o|X| W |XI}{|\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/| |X| W A |XI |/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\| |X| A L |XI |\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/| |X| L L |XI |/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\| |X| L |XI |\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/| |X| |XI |/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\| |X| |XI |\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/| |X| |XI}{|/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\| |X| |XI |\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/| /XX| |XI )______________________________|/XXX| (Pieces not to scale) |XI -------------------------------/ XXX| |XI___________________________________XXX| Basically, it's a hinged gate. Two permanent attachments are made to the adjoining walls, but the itself gate is removable. On the left, the "X" part is attached to the wall. In cross-section it looks like this: |XXXXXX |X****X (Wall)|X******** .... |X******** |X****X |XXXXXX Where the "X" is the part attached to the wall and the "*" is the part of the gate to which the hinge is attached. The gate part can be lifted out and moved to be used in another doorway that has its own the "permanent" pieces in place. (The "permanent" part is attached to the wall with 2 [3?] screws and was very simple to attach.) On the right side is the "latching" mechanism. This is a little hard to draw, but in cross-section this looks like: ------------ | ********* XXXXXXX| ... ********* XXXXXXX| (Wall) ********* XXXXXXX| ------------ | Where the "*" is the gate and the "X" is a strip that is attached to the wall. The "-" part is one piece that slides up and to the left (i.e. towards the center of the gate) and so swings free of the part attached to the wall. (NOTE the "o" in the main diagram is a "bullet-latch" to keep the moving part in place.) This is almost impossible to describe and/or to draw, but is really very simple in real life. We have two which we use at the top of stairs. They're pretty heavy duty and have lasted us through two kids with no mishaps so far. ************************************************************************ ****** * gregory@csri.toronto.edu Yeah, the Gerry that Judy hates :-) [Robert deleted the part where she said it screwed into the wall but they wanted to move it around]. We bought it because it was one of the few screw-into-the-wall types available, and we we had quite a clear run up the the top of the stairs. We were concerned that Beth could work up a full head of steam, smash into the gate, and knock a rubber- bumper- type right out of the doorway. Various people told us that was indeed possible. So we bought the Gerry. It is really hard to open. In fact I was insisting we should take it back till I suddenly got the knack. We had to teach everyone to open it, and I usually had to help the first 4 or 5 times. Somehow that didn't make us just leave it open. It was also VERY hard to open from below, because as you push on the foot switch it gives a little when opening from the other side. All in all though, I liked it and would recommend it. There was no other place we wanted to gate, so a movable gate held no appeal for us. In fact I liked the fact that this one hinged like a door and was waiting for you when you came back to close it. ************************************************************************ ****** * menon@boulder.Colorado.EDU saavik@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (PMH) writes: >It's a white gate with plastic cris-cross mesh with openings about >2 sq.in. on a diagonal. It stays in place very nicely with tension >bars at the top and bottom. You have to turn them to tighten against >your door jam. It doesn't take much time to tighten or loosen. we also have one of these for the dogs. it works well for its barrier purposes, but it leaves marks on the walls that require paint jobs to repair. so unless you don't mind marred walls..... ************************************************************************ ****** * clare@nynexst.com I wish I had asked before getting that gate. It is made by Gerry and we failed utterly at installation. We drilled the doorway and put the hinges in. Little did we know that the hinges would be so unsteady. Basically even with the hinges in, you still need to push the rubber pads up against the edges of the doorway. If the doorway is not perfectly parallel, it doesn't fit correctly. We got it because it had a foot pedal and we thought (incorrectly) that my mother-in-law would be able to use it without bending down. Now it is just $30 junk sitting in her closet. Incidentally, we do have a Supergate (about $20), and that gate has a kit inside that has 8 plastic cups (4 for doorway, 4 for rails) that you can screw into the doorway. We screwed 4 in (2 on each side) at the same level as the rubber pads. Now that gate is easy to put in (just fit it in between the plastic cups, extend and latch). Our son can no longer understand why he can't push the gate down anymore! We might try using the remaining 4 plastic pads (for rails) with that blasted *#%@#!& Gerry gate (I don't know if it'll work), but if it did, we'd only use it without the foot-pedal, taking the time to twist the two tightener knobs every time and forget about it swinging. For pressure-rubber gates try the SuperGate (I got mine at Service Merchandise). It is grey, has diamond-like plastic pattern, and has a plastic lever-like latch in the middle that you can bend down in 3 positions to get the desired tightness. We've found that after installing the 4 door pads, we only have to use the least tight position. This also evened out the non-parallelness of our doorway. That gate also has hardware for hinges (although we haven't tried that since it works pretty well with just the pads). Don't get the Gerry gate, it's worthless!!! I wish I could just get gates that have hardware on both sides. Maybe I'll make one myself. I'll use the Gerry gate, drill some holes and attach a hinge on one side and a latch on the other side. That's an idea. ************************************************************************ ****** * lauraf@notavax.Jpl.Nasa.Gov For a good mail order source try the Perfectly Safe Company (1-800-837- kids). I had a gate that I bought locally, but is also available thru them. It is wood and has vertical slats. On each side of the door frame you connect two eyebolts. Then there are three hooks (2 on one side, one on the other) that hook into the eyebolts. Then instead of a hook for the forth eyebolt there is a little clamp thingy that keeps the whol thing from being taken off too easily. You can remove the whole gate easily (and with extra eyebolts - use it in more then one location), or you can disconnect the side with the clamp and swing it aside, You can even collapse it in a bit. The come in two sizes. One fits most standard doors, and the other size expands up to 96 inches. The gates cost $19.95 for the 27"-48" model and 39.95 for the 52"-96" one. I used the larger one to seperate the living room from the dining room. Worked great. I am not good at describing this sort of thing. P.S. I think it is made by Cosco, but dont hold me to it. ************************************************************************ ****** * zippy@cbnewsl.cb.att.com In article <1966@shuksan.boeing.com>, mikey@shuksan.boeing.com (Mike Fields) writes: > > On to the reason for the post. What we have is called the "Walk-thru Ultra > Gate" by Nuline industries in Wisconson. It locks/releases with a latch at I have to toss in another endorsement. We use the Ultra Gate in 3 different spots, each of which is installed slightly differently. The gate is very easy to open/close (for an adult) and can be mounted in what might otherwise be "non-protectable" spots. ************************************************************************ ****** * We made very simple (but effective) baby gates (or fences) with 2x4's and 1 inch dowels. Cut 2 2x4 lengths equal to the width of the doorway. Drill 1 inch diameter holes about 5 inches apart (measured from center of one hole to the center of the next - 6 inches is too wide since it leaves a 5 inch gap between the bars). The leftmost and rightmost holes should be only about 4 - 4.5 inches from the ends or the end gaps will be too big. Cut the dowels to 2 foot lengths. Assemble with one 2x4 on the bottom, one on the top and the dowels in between. Baby gates tend to be virtually permanent (from about 6 months old to ?). So you can just nail the 2x4's to the wall. The result is secure and looks pretty good (especially if you finish the 2x4's and dowels). We used the railing from a banister as the top of the gate, so that it looked a little nicer. We also did a slightly fancier connection to the wall, just in case we wanted to take it down temporarily (we haven't yet). The only tricks are cutting the 2x4 lengths correctly for moldings at the base of the wall, and adjusting for the width of the moldings when drilling the holes for the dowels so that the dowels line up vertically. Measure carefully. ************************************************************************ ****** *