Yarn Test Method Each yarn for the Real Life Yarn Tests is subjected to the following tests. Hand (Feel of the yarn) We use stocking stitch to describe how the yarn feels. It may be soft, firm, solid, bouncy (sorry, that is the best word I can think of), scratchy, etc. Lace Full fashioned lace with at least 8 rows between knitting rows at some point in the pattern. (This issue, Brother Stitchworld 161 was used.) If stitches drop on the first attempt, the knitting is moved onto the ribber bed (with cover in place) to improve the angle). No special techniques are used beyond this, since we must allow for knitters without a lot of experience. If there are still dropped stitches, a new full fashioned lace pattern with fewer transfers is attempted, and finally, a simple lace pattern (2 and 4 rows between knit rows). Two full patterns repeats must be completed without trouble to pass all tests. Cables Elasticity of the yarn is tested with a simple 3 stitch cross (6 stitches total). The stitch on either side of the cable is dropped and reformed. Most yarns will pass this test, but degree of difficulty is noted. Tuck Stitch A simple test with 1 X 1 tuck , either plain or double length. We are not looking for problems here, but many yarns have a super appearance with tuck stitch, and we'd like to let you know if they do. The occasional yarn may have a tendency to jump off the needles. Rib Our standard test is MT - 3 (our call on MT). When the rib is too loose, or too light we may try a simple solution, like lowering tension, using Slide lever II (Brother machines), or even using 2 strands of yarn. We will note any solutions or problems we found. We will also account for yarn attributes, i.e., fine cotton yarns are not expected to produce a firm, bouncy rib. Steaming All yarns are tested for steam blocking. There are yarns that should not be steamed, but we want to confirm it. A yarn does not "fail" a test for reacting poorly to steam, but we have run across enough yarns that take steam well, that we have included this category. If the yarn is "unsteamable", we will damp block the sample. Laundering If yarn is advertised as machine wash and dry, that is exactly what we do. No special care-into the family wash at least four times, warm wash temperature, regular laundry soap and fabric softener added to the final rinse. Dryer is set to autodry, and the sample is removed as soon as the dryer stops. A light steaming is used to straighten edges. Yarns that state other washing methods will be treated exactly as called for. If no washing instructions are included, we assume machine wash and dry. Canada's Fashion Machine Yarn Test Issue 51, May 1994 Canada's Fashion Machine is a full colour, quarterly magazine for machine knitters. Includes some sewing information as well. Canada's Fashion Machine, Box 1010, Kenora ON P9N 3X7 Canada. 1-800-363-4436 Excellence 3/15 Details 100% Acrylic Yarn, 2700 yards per pound, 60 shades. $22.50/lb. solids, $25.75/lb. space dyed prints. Tested with T6 and T7, standard machine, 7.5/8 st./in. Colour tested: Ashes of Roses Hand Medium soft, with good body. Lace Some trouble here. Following the testing method, stitches dropped with the first sample. However, the second test with less demanding pattern worked without a hitch. An experienced lace knitter would succeed, even with a difficult pattern. Cables Easy and suits the yarn well. Rib Great rib, very elastic. Steaming Steam sensitive, but we successfully blocked with care, and low steam. Beginners should damp block (as with any yarn of this type). Laundering No shrinkage or stretching in four washings. The yarn softened and the ribs remained perfect. (Lace & rib photos have been washed.) The surface became slightly fuzzy, which may lead to some pilling with repeated washing, but none occurred over the test. Performance & Suggestions A pleasant yarn to work with, and a good all purpose yarn. Washing properties make it a natural for children's garments. By appearance, it could have wool content, so may be perfect for "wool" sensitive adults who like the look of wool. Crystal Details 74% Acrylic, 26% Nylon. 2000 yards/lb, 20 colours, $32.50/lb. Tested with T6, standard machine, 7.5 sts/in. Hand Great body and excellent resiliency for a yarn of this type. Lace Beginners start your lace carriages. What a pleasure to work with for lace, and it looks terrific. Recommended as a first lace project. Cables No trouble - I even did an extra test on a 2X2 with no released stitches and had no problem. For a firm, dress yarn, this one is really easy to get along with. Rib Not bad at MT-3 and no heroic moves. Washing seemed to make rib even more resilient. Slide II, or a 2X1 arrangement for a garment is recommended, but it's impressive. New to Canada The two following yarns have just become available in Canada. They are both British yarns. Trumatch Details 100% Courtelle acrylic, 20 colours. 400 gm. cone, 2140 yds. Approx. $20.00. No dye lots - colour match guaranteed. Knits as 4ply. Knit with T7 & T8, 7-7.5 st/in. Hand Very soft and bouncy. Lace Lost 1 stitch on the first test, but as soon as it came in front of the ribber it sailed through the tough pattern. Nice definition to stitches. Cables Very easy. Rib Solid and elastic at MT-3. Steaming Steam sensitive, as are all yarns of this type. Using low steam and caution not to move knitting while hot, samples were steam blocked. Beginners should use damp blocking. Laundering No sign of pilling or fuzz after 4 washes, although there was a 5% shrinkage in length. Allow a few extra rows, or wash your sample. Ribs remained strong. Very washable yarn. Performance and Suggestions As a basic 4ply weight yarn, this yarn gets high marks. No dye lot concern is handy for those who like to keep yarn on hand in their favourite colours, or for custom knitters. Should do well in Canada. Trumatch is appropriate for the whole family, and should find a special place in children's wear, since it washes so well. Super Saver Details 100% Acrylic, 32 colours, 500gm cone, 3620 yards, under $20.00. Knits as 4 ply. Knit with T7, 7.5 st/in. Tested colour 26 Royal. Hand Felt hard and coarse on the cone, but was soft after knitting, and very soft after washing. Lace A pleasant surprise. This yarn went right through the first trial with flying colours. Cables No trouble here either. Rib The sample at MT-3 was not strong enough. Tension lower or other tightening measures are suggested. Good resiliency though. Steaming As with any yarn of this type, this one is steam sensitive. Again, with low steam and caution, samples were blocked with steam. Beginners should damp block. Laundering Budget yarns don't wash well, right? WRONG. This sample came through four washings with flying colours. No signs of pilling and very little surface fuzz. It softened nicely, and held its body. Rib is untested, since the sample with rib wasn't washed (OOPS!). Performance and Suggestions A nice yarn with a great selection of colours. At under $20.00 for a very large sweater, I think Super Saver will do well in Canada. Suitable for any member of the family. The low price and good washing results make it a natural for afghans as well. Trumatch and Super Saver are both available through Modern Sales Canada, Inc., Box 67, 4-1865 McLean Ave., Port Coquitlam, BC, V3C 3V5. (604) 942-5939. Order line: 1-800-661-6221 (CN and US). Wholesale only - check with your dealer. Canada's Fashion Machine Yarn Test Issue 52, August 1994 Canada's Fashion Machine is a full colour, quarterly magazine for machine knitters. Includes some sewing information as well. Canada's Fashion Machine, Box 1010, Kenora ON P9N 3X7 Canada. 1-800-363-4436 Response to our first "Real Life Yarn Tests" was incredible, so for this issue we tested more yarns. Nomi Lee Yarns Cotton Rainbow Details 100% Cotton, 20 colours. 1 lb. cone - $27.00. Approximately 6 sts./in at T9 (standard gage). Mini Cotton Rainbow available (lighter weight), but not tested. Hand Soft, soft, soft, on the cone, while knitting and after steaming and washing. Lace Dropped a few sts on T9, but sailed through a full transfer pattern on T10. Cables Cables were surprisingly easy to cross and really stand out in this weight. Tuck Stitch No trouble, and creates a heavy weight fabric. You won't get much heavier on a standard gauge machine, so if you are looking for bulk without a larger gauge machine, this yarn and tuck st may be the answer. Rib Not bad at T6/6 with no adjustments. Would use a tightening method, i.e., Brother Slide II, or a lower dial setting. Steaming Go ahead with lots of steam. Laundering No washing instructions included, so by the rules, machine wash & dry is assumed. Expected shrinkage with 100% cotton, especially one as soft as this, but the results were outstanding. After four trips through the family wash , there was no pilling or pulling out of shape and less than 5% shrinkage (length only). The rib also held well (hard to believe at only MT-3, but it did). Performance and Suggestions Wonderful yarn. Soft, cosy and at the top of the standard gauge yarn weights, it is perfect for year round garments. The washability makes it a rare cotton that is truly appropriate for the youngest child, even baby wear. Classic styles pop to mind, especially with cables, since the heavy weight gives you a lot of impact with texture. Also great for oversized garments, since you can knit a width of 33"+ in stocking st. Highly recommended Lorraine Details 100% acrylic. $19.00 - 1 lb. cone. Approximately 9 sts/in at T5 (standard gauge). 37 colours. Hand Soft and fluid with a sheen. Lace Wow! Right through the hardest pattern without a hitch. Very delicate look. Cables Cables were tough to cross. Since the yarn is so fine, you need a lot of cable detail to make an impact - I would pass. Tuck Stitch Adds body (and width), yet is still lightweight. Light catches the raised sts and is very attractive. (Tuck rib would be nice, too.) Rib Appearance and resiliency is not bad, but without help, the rib is not heavy enough to be strong. You may want to consider two ends of yarn or a double rib (knit twice the length and slip st as for a hem). Steaming Very good for a yarn of this type. Beginners should proceed with caution, but if you are an experienced steamer - go ahead. (Be careful not to move the sample when hot. Like any acrylic yarn, it has no memory when heated.) Laundering No instructions, so machine wash and dry. Came through 4 cycles looking like new. No pilling (not even a bit of fuzzing) and no shrinkage. Performance and Suggestions Recommended for any garment with drape. The easy lace just begs for complex shawls or vests, and could even be good for curtains or other home decor (especially since it washes so well). Try it in rib patterns as well. The beautiful drape holds even in rib patterning. Nomi Lee Yarns are distributed in Canada by Marj's Knitting Machine Shoppe, 5132 Dundas Street West, Etobicoke, ON M9A 1C2. (416) 239-6714. Patons Yarns Weekender Details 100% Cotton, Double Knitting weight. 16 colours, 116 yards. $2.39 - 50g. 5 sts/in at T3 on a bulky (9mm) machine. Ball band calls for 5+ sts/in (T1). Mid gauge machines would be perfect for this yarn. Sample knit on 4.5mm machine at T10.. was too tight. Hand Soft with good body. Cables On the bulky machine at T3, cables were really hard and a few sts on either side of the cable were permanently marked. At T1, couldn't do. A mid gauge machine would be fine for cables. Tuck Stitch Hand manipulated (using HP). Very nice definition to sts. Rib No way on a bulky machine, although if you own a fine machine, you can do a beautiful rib. Mid gauge owners should have no trouble getting a good rib. Reducing sts is recommended. Steaming Beautiful results - go ahead. Laundering Hand wash/flat dry. Yarn softened a bit on the first, but showed no wear after 4 washes.. We also tried gentle machine wash, with good results. Even with hand washing, machine spinning is recommended (set your machine to the final spin) to reduce drying time. While drying, we blocked lightly, but it held its shape well. Performance and Suggestions Perfect yarn for casual wear (thus the name). Mid gauge owners have the advantage with this yarn, for ease in knitting as well as number of sts. At 5+ sts/in, and 110 ndls, you can only knit 20" width, and this yarn begs for oversize styles. Great yarn at a great price. True North DK Details 50% Wool, 50% Acrylic. $2.99 - 50g. 20 colours. Double Knitting weight. 5+ sts/in, T1, bulky (9mm) machine. Worsted weight also available. Hand Classic look, soft and not a bit scratchy, although you can feel and see the wool content. Very nice body. Cables A little tight (but manageable) on 9mm machine. Mid gauge owner would have no trouble. Cables stand up nicely and suit the yarn well. Tuck Stitch Hand manipulated (using HP). No problem and texture showed well in plain yarn. Rib Recommend one of following for 9mm machines: Use a fine machine for ribs; Reduce sts and knit rib down (to use cast off instead of cast on edge); Hand knit ribs. Mid gauge owners should get a good rib, as the yarn is resilient. Bulky owners use every tightening trick available (Slide Lever II, no weight, tighten yarn feed, etc.). Once you get a good rib, it will hold (see laundering). Steaming No problem, but it there is an acrylic content, so be careful. Laundering Machine wash, gentle, cool water, dry flat. Following these instructions, the sample looks like new after 4 washes. Rib held perfectly. A word of caution, though. We accidentally put a sample in the dryer - DO NOT MAKE THIS MISTAKE. This yarn will not take a normal dry cycle. However, the yarn is light and dries quickly when flat - worth the extra bit of trouble. Performance and Suggestions This is a great yarn. Light enough for suits, and a nice selection of colours to work with for traditional fairisle. 50g size lends well to many colour work, and the light weight would also be good for floats without too much bulk. Angelica Details Worsted weight, brushed yarn. $2.99 - 50g. 5 sts/in, T4 bulky (9mm). Also tried T7 - 4 sts/in. Hand Soft with good body at T3. At T7, very soft and fluid, so you have a choice depending on your style. Cables No problems at either tension. Sit up well. At larger tension, recommend leaving ndl out of work on either side and then latching up, instead of dropping a st to reform (too loose). Tuck Stitch Hand manipulated (using HP). Fabric became quite stiff at T3, although it was nice at T7. Ribs OK at T1, although tightening and/or reducing sts is recommended. Steaming No problems, but proceed with caution. Steam raised the brushed surface and softened the yarn. Laundering Hand wash, dry flat. No sign of pilling or wear after 4 washes. Brushed surface remained soft. Performance and Suggestions Easy yarn to knit. We actually preferred the looser tension, and at 4 sts per inch, even a 110 ndl machine can knit 27+" width. Mid gauge owners could use this yarn easily. It would also make a cosy afghan, although hand wash/dry would be a deterrent. Spectrum Yarns Linaria Details 100% Acrylic 4 ply. 8 sts/in at T6 standard gauge (4.5mm). 500g cone, 2300 m, 60 colours. Hand Very soft with nice drape and sheen. Lace No problems with the toughest trial. Stitches nicely defined. Tuck Stitch Remained very soft. Cables No problems. Rib MT-3 just OK. Resiliency good, but needed more strength. Lower tension would work well, or tightening if machine capable. Steaming Damp block this yarn - very sensitive to heat. Laundering Machine wash gentle, dry flat. Sample held shape and there was no pilling or shrinkage after 4 washes. Performance and Suggestions Linaria performed well in all tests, and has a high quality appearance. This may be a good choice for wool sensitive people, especially with the wide range of colours, from icy pastels to brights to traditional darks. The colours would be exciting for special children's wear, but the dry flat requirement is a lot of trouble for everyday garments. If you naturally pamper your knit garments, this is a highly recommended yarn. Tango Details 80% Courtelle Acrylic, 20% Wool. 8 sts/in, T6, standard gauge (4.5mm). 500g cone, 2300m, 30 colours. Imported from Britain. Hand Very soft with good resiliency. Lace Right through the tough test with no problem. Especially attractive in lace, perhaps because of the wool content. The transfer lace portions really stand out. Tuck Stitch Looks good, nice weight and drape. Cables Easy to work, and like the lace, the cables are well defined. Rib Needs more than MT-3. although resiliency is good, even after washing. Steaming Be careful, but can be used with caution. Beginners should stick to damp blocking. Laundering Machine wash gently, dry flat. No wear, pilling, shrinkage or distortion in 4 washes. In fact, the sample seemed to look better after washing. Performance and Suggestions This yarn has some exciting colours which could be combined for dynamic results. A good lightweight yarn that holds texture well. Easy lace and strong resiliency makes it a good candidate for lace suits or tuck patterns. Soft enough for children's wear, but remember it calls for "dry flat". Spectrum Yarns are available from Chilton Custom Knits, 606 Minto Street, Oshawa, ON L1G 5K5. Phone: (905) 436-0485 Fax: (905) 436-7358. Wholesale only or inquire for your nearest dealer. Alafoss Lopi Details 100% Wool. T9, 3+ st/in, bulky machine (9mm). Too heavy for mid gauge machines. 100g ball, 100m, $5.99. 55 colours. Also available in a light weight (Lett Lopi) which will be tested at a later time. Hand Traditional Lopi style yarn. Firm texture and "real" wool feel. Extremely heavy and has a scratchy texture. Only for outer garments, unless you are very tolerant of rough texture. Cables Very easy and impressive with the big yarn. Tuck Stitch Too heavy. Rib MT-3 not enough, although firm at MT-4. If you want a pulled in look, reducing sts is recommended. The yarn lends itself to "barely in" ribs though, and MT-4 is perfect. Steaming Like all pure wools, this yarn loves steam. Really brought up the Lopi nap and softened the sample. Laundering Hand wash/dry flat. Improved with washing as the "hairs" were released. Recommend cold water soak wash by machine with a "fine washable" product, like Zero or Woolite. Heavy wool garments can be damaged by handling them when wet, and the spin dry of a washer is easier than trying to get the water out by hand without damage. Be prepared for at least 24 hours to dry on a mesh dryer. Performance and Suggestions Very tough for a Lopi style yarn. Many will pull apart on the machine, but this yarn showed no sign of disintegration, even with cables. Great selection of traditional colours - light patterning and striping would be a the best way to use the colour potential. Mitts, hats and socks would be terrific in this yarn. Alfoss yarns are available from S.R. Kertzer, Ltd., 105A Winges Road, Woodbridge, ON L4L 6C2. Phone: (905) 856-3447 Fax: (905) 856-5585. Wholesale only. Call for a dealer near you. Canada's Fashion Machine Yarn Test Issue 53, November 1994 Canada's Fashion Machine is a full colour, quarterly magazine for machine knitters. Includes some sewing information as well. Canada's Fashion Machine, Box 1010, Kenora ON P9N 3X7 Canada. 1-800-363-4436 Patons Yarns Canadiana Colours Details 100% Acrylic, 6 colours. 85gm ball - $3.99. Approximately 5 sts/in at T7 (mid gauge). Hand Good body that holds up well in washing. Cables ables were very easy to cross and really stand out. Would be no trouble even on 9mm machine. Tuck Stitch No trouble, and creates a rich jacket weight fabric. The colours showed up better in a double length 1x1 tuck stitch. Increase your tension from stocking st to let the tuck sts show. Rib Good rib at MT-3, although for the weight of the fabric, tightening is recommended. This yarn would stand up well in a 2x1 rib arrangement. Steaming Fairly tolerant, and the steam softens the fabric. Beginners please be careful_this is an acrylic yarn and can be misshapen with steam. Laundering Machine wash and dry. It stiffened and appeared to shrink after 4 washes, but with light steaming came back to original texture and size. No evidence of any pilling, and the colours stayed bright and true. The rib also held well. Performance and Suggestions If you are looking for a machine wash and dry yarn with a fashion look, consider Canadiana colours. Canadiana is a hand knitting standard for good reason, and the colour play in this yarn adds an exciting touch. Fairisle patterns would really come alive with these colours, and the ball size lends itself well to combining several colours in one garment. Recommend waxing the yarn as you knit or while winding for smoother knitting. Patons Yarns are available at many hand knitting shops in both Canada and the US. Forsell Yarns Suva Details 66% wool, 34% cotton slub. apprx. $33.00 - 1 lb. cone, 2230 mtrs (2440 yards). 5 neutral colours. 10 sts/in at T3 (standard gauge 4.5mm). 7 sts/in at T8 (4.5mm) double stranded. 6 sts/in at T5 (6.5mm) double stranded. Hand Cuddly soft and fluid with a slight sheen. The cotton hand predominates in this yarn. Lace Wow! Right through the hardest pattern without a hitch single stranded. Very delicate look. Double stranded produced an elegant "country" look. No dropped stitches, but had to tighten tension so that one strand was not left behind on transfer. Cables Easy with one or two strands, although the effect was much greater with two. With one strand, you would need a lot of cabling for effect. Tuck Stitch Adds body (and width), yet is still lightweight. Increase tension to let the sts relax (they will fill in with a soft yarn). Double stranded on the mid gauge with double length produced the best result. Tuck rib would be nice with a single strand. Rib MT-3 produced good results, even on single stranded sample, although double strand or 2x1 rib would be better. Double stranded sample produced a firm, resilient rib, but not much "pull" at MT-3. Steaming Go ahead_it loved it. Laundering Hand wash, dry flat. Looks brand new after 4 washes. Rib held well and body held. Performance and Suggestions Recommended for delicate, classic lace (single) or a more casual, country look (double) for mid gauge or standard machines (too light, even doubled, for 9mm). Sheepbreeds Details 100% wool, $29.00 - 1 lb cone, 2258 mtrs (2470 yards). 5 natural colours. 9 sts/in at T5 on a standard (4.5mm) machine single stranded. 7 sts/in double stranded T10. 6.5 sts/in double stranded at T5 (6.5mm). Hand Very much a wool. Scratchy, traditional wool feel and look. If you are wool sensitive, this is outside wear only. Lace No trouble with either one or two strands. Stitch definition was good for both. Cables Perfect for this yarn. No trouble with single or double yarns on either machine, although the single strand cable is very fine and would need a lot for impact. Double stranded, the cables sit up well and match the look of the yarn very well. Tuck Stitch Loosen tension a lot for this yarn, since it is very hairy and tends to fill in the sts. Single stranded looks very nice on the knit side (almost like a seed st), and the double stranded sample is better on the double length setting. Rib No problems here, although MT-3 is not tight enough for a classic rib look. Single strand is not heavy enough for a good firm rib at 1x1. Consider doubling yarn or using 2x1. Steaming Beautiful results - go ahead. Laundering Hand wash/flat dry. Yarn softened a tiny bit on the first, but showed no wear after 4 washes. A garment in this yarn would last a long time. Performance and Suggestions This is the perfect yarn for that rugged, outdoor look. Long hairs add interest to the surface, and the mottled background invites creative use of texture, especially double stranded. There was no time, but I am itching to try boiled wool with this yarn. Forsell Yarns are available from Westrade Sales (see ad page 53), Mslamb (see ad page 4), Glen Valley Custom Knits (see ad page 17). Yeoman Yarns Chenille Details 100% Acrylic 4 ply. $47.00 - 500 gm cone. Hand Very soft, soft, soft and velvety. Cables No problem with either gauge. Definition is good, especially double stranded on the mid gauge machine. Lace Not for beginners. We had some trouble with dropped sts, but by moving the fabric in front of the ribber, and moving carefully, we did manage to complete a complicated pattern. Results are worth the extra effort, as the velvet and lace appearance is special. Tuck Stitch Beautiful definition of sts at double length 1x1 tuck, single. (Mid gauge tuck was very thick). Tuck st uses a lot of yarn, which may be a draw back with a premium priced yarn. Rib MT-3 produced a nice rib for a straight look. If you are looking for a pull in at the bottom, you would need to reduce sts. Steaming OK with caution. Be careful not to touch the yarn with the iron or steamer. This is just like velvet fabric. Laundering Hand wash. No sign of any change after 4 washes, including the MT-3 rib. Performance and Suggestions Chenille is a special fibre. This yarn would look great in an oversized, plain pullover for the casual look, or a full lace classic style for very dressy outfits. Consider using chenille as an accent if the cost is too high. Butterfly Metallic Details Novelty yarn. 55% Viscose, 30% metallic, 15% nylon. $24.00/100g. 3 colours. 4 ply weight. Hand Knit plain, it is surprisingly soft for a metallic look. Actually an eyelash yarn, with metallic on one side of the eyelash, and a velour like patch on the other. We could not do our traditional methods of testing on this yarn, so we tested a few ways for fun. Stocking St Very easy to do on the machine, and is quite soft. The metallic effect shows as little pieces sticking straight out of the fabric, and is far more pronounced on the knit side (after washing) than on the purl side. A full garment in this yarn would be very costly, but it is well suited to striping, or even Fairisle, since the effect shows on the knit side. Fairisle Here we had some fun. Small pattern Fairisle with a four ply dress yarn initially seemed disappointing, but after washing, most of the metallic and plain eyelash flipped to the knit side. This gives a somewhat diluted effect to the stocking st sample, but the patterning was still heavy enough to make a knock out garment. Fairisle makes yarns go a long way too. In fact, I think the patterning is even more unique than when we knit it plain. Weaving We tried several variations of weaving with a plain 1x1 setting, but were disappointed with most. Because of the regular eyelash pattern, vertical stripes formed that resembled little caterpillars. Cute, but not great for special garments. We hit the jackpot though when we put 5 rws between each weaving row, and created delightful, metallic/velour polka dots. The best news is that the yarn would go forever used this way. Steaming No problems, but proceed with caution. Steam raised the brushed surface and softened the yarn. Laundering Hand wash, dry flat. No sign of weakening or wear after 4 washes. Performance and Suggestions Easy yarn to knit. Have some fun with accents, stripes, or our favourite polka dots. Yeoman Yarns are available (retail and dealer) from Cardiknits (see ad page 36). Canada's Fashion Machine Yarn Test Issue 54, February 1994 Canada's Fashion Machine is a full colour, quarterly magazine for machine knitters. Includes some sewing information as well. Canada's Fashion Machine, Box 1010, Kenora ON P9N 3X7 Canada. 1-800-363-4436 Emu Yarns Cottons on DK Details 50% Cotton, 50% Acrylic. 19 colours, including solid pastels, denim, white and cream based flecks of colour. 100gm ball_$7.99. 5+ st/in, T6 (mid gauge). Could be worked on bulky gauge machine. Hand Very soft and cottony. Could be mistaken for 100% cotton. Cables Tough even on the mid gauge. Left a slight mark. Suggest knitting an extra row on cables only before crossing. Result would be worth the extra effort, as cables suit the yarn and stand up well. Tuck Stitch Very nice, but creates a heavy fabric. Increase tension. Rib Surprisingly good at MT-3. Suitable for moderate pull in. For tight rib, dropping tension setting will do the job. Held up very well in washing. Steaming No problems. Behaved like pure cotton yarn, but beginners take care, as there is a high acrylic content. Use no pressure with steam. Laundering Machine wash, dry flat. Absolutely no shrinkage, and hand improved. No signs of pilling, although a few short threads popped out of the knitting. These were trimmed easily. Performance and Suggestions If your machine can knit DK weight, take a look at this yarn. Perfect for casual, comfortable garments with relatively easy care. Great for that "weekend" look sweater. Emu Yarns are available at most hand knitting shops. For a dealer near you, contact S.R. Kertzer Ltd., 105A Winges Road, Woodbridge ON L4L 6C2. (905) 856-3447. Yeoman Yarns Fifty/Fifty Details 50% Wool, 50% Acrylic, 2ply. 350 gram cone. 22 colours, brights, pastels and neutrals. 11 sts/in (single strand) at T2 (standard gauge) and 8 sts/in (double strand) at T6 (standard gauge). Hand Good body, even single stranded in stocking st. Wool content gives a firmer structure to the fabric. Yarn is recommended for PASSAP textures or double Jacquard, and this yarn has the body and appearance for both applications. Looks and feels like wool with no itch. Cables No troubles, but single strand would require heavy cabling to stand out. Double strand cables are very nice, standing up well from the background fabric. Tuck Stitch Excellent for tuck stitch, especially single stranded. Lace Single and double stranded flew through test samples with no problems. Recommended for beginners. Very delicate appearance in single strand. Rib Only tested for double stranded. Very springy and effective at MT-3. Held superbly during laundering. Perfect for classic styling. Use double strand rib with single strand tuck stitch at a lower tension setting for a firm stable rib on a fluid garment. Also suitable for full needle rib with single strand. Steaming Excellent results-go ahead, but use no pressure. Laundering Machine wash & dry. (No instructions included, although the sample card states machine wash.) Double stranded performed very well. No shrinkage and only a little fuzzing_no pilling. Single stranded had more fuzz and about 10% shrinkage in width only. Wash sample first to be on the safe side. Excellent retention of rib and body. Performance and Suggestions Well suited to a variety of fabrics, especially when used double or for textured stitches and double Jacquard. One of the few blends available in a light weight yarn, and easy care adds to the attraction. Yeoman Yarns are available through Cardiknits. See ad on page 35. Curl Yarns Three weights of the same yarn were tested. No washing instructions are included, so all were tested with machine wash and dry. All are available in the same 38 colours ranging from neutrals to brights to muted shades. 2/8's Details All are 100% cotton. $5.25-$8.85 250 gm tube. $9.75-$16.90 500gm tube. Price varies by colour. 2/8's: 10 sts/in at T3 (standard gauge). 4/8's: 7 sts/in at T9 (standard gauge). Also suitable for mid gauge. 8/8's: 5 sts /in at T7 (mid gauge). Also suitable for chunky machines. Hand 2/8's: True "cotton" feel with good body. Slightly hard, but softens very nicely with washing. Very comfortable. Nice weight for indoor garments, yet provides good body for a flattering line. Matte finish to yarn. 4/8's: Same but mid weight. 8/8's: Substantial yarn-very thick, with a cosy feel. Cables 2/8's: Tough, but not impossible. Standard gauge is large for this weight, but if you knit the first row after crossing carefully, it can be accomplished. Stand out very well for a light yarn. If you want texture, you might try 2x2 cables_they won't disappear in this yarn. 4/8's: No problem on standard gauge. Very effective. (For mid gauge follow suggestions for 2/8's). 8/8's: Easy on mid gauge (for chunky machines follow 2/8's). Very dynamic look. Cables sit up well on background. Even one cable would add style to a garment when it shows up this well. Tuck Stitch 2/8's: Wonderful weight and texture with 1X1 rib at double length. Adds width to fabric, and still produces an indoor weight with a seed stitch (knit side) appearance. 4/8's: Same as 2/8's, but thick and cosy. With 200 ndls, a 40" width fabric is possible. 8/8's: Creates very thick fabric. Use in small amounts, or for an outerweight only fabric. Lace 2/8's: Sailed right through without a hitch. Recommended for beginners. Fashion transfers are well defined and crisp. 4/8's: Very easy, and the transfer lace pattern shows very clearly in the plain yarn. Rib 2/8's: Quite loose at MT-3. Reducing sts and knitting double stranded could provide a classic, pulled in look. The rib held well in washing. As an alternative, consider using a straight, or slight pull in silhouette for this yarn. It has the body to hang very well. 4/8's: Good pull and retention at MT-3. Needed to use #7 weights on edges to knit properly. Had some trouble at high speeds, but when a steady, reasonable pace was used, the problem ceased. 8/8's: At MT-3 very stable, but with little pull. For classic styling, recommend reducing stitches. Steaming No problem with any weight. Laundering 2/8's: Body held well and fabric softened. 5% to 10% shrinkage on the first wash only, so wash and dry sample before measuring (a good practice at all times). Slight movement to surface of short fibres, but by the fourth wash, many had disappeared. (Hard twist cotton will often look better after washing many times as the short fibres work out and wash away. This seems to be happening with this yarn, although four washes is not enough for conclusive proof.) 4/8's: Same as 2/8's with less surface fuzz. 8/8's: Same as 2/8's Performance and Suggestions I admit a natural love of any cotton, but this yarn is a gem. My aversion to laundry is almost as great as my love of cotton, so a machine washable, pure cotton has caught my attention before it hits the machine. And this one delivered. Easy to work with, firm but cosy hand and a wonderful palette of colours is worth close attention. Add a very reasonable cost, handy 250gm cones, plus the fact that the yarn is manufactured in Canada, and you have a highly recommended set of yarns for the entire family. Contact Curl Yarns, 21 Kenview Blvd., Unit #28, Brampton, ON L6D 5G7 (905) 799-9765. Denys Brunton Yarns All That Jazz Details 99% Acrylic, 1% Nylon. 6 colours featuring tweed look in unique colour combinations. 450 gram cone $26.95. 4 sts/in at T7 (mid gauge). Also suitable for 8 and 9mm machines. Hand Very, very soft and fluid. Thick, but lightweight. Cables Easy, but why bother. Disappear into background. Tuck Same as cables. This yarn has interesting possibilities for striping, weaving or Fairisle, but one colour patterning will not show in the heavy tweed effect. Rib Reasonable spring at MT-3 for this type of yarn, but little pull. For a classic "pulled in" look, you may want to use a coordinating plain yarn. Consider an oversized, unstructured all over rib garment in this yarn. Sure to be dramatic and cosy. Steaming Surprisingly tolerant for a synthetic fibre. Make sure you use no pressure (don't touch your iron to the fabric). Laundering Machine wash, dry flat. No sign of stretching/shrinkage after four washes. Very slight pilling. Performance and Suggestions Very easy yarn to work with in interesting colours. Could be a good yarn for beginners ready to step beyond plain yarns, since the yarn is easy to work with, yet would be attractive with no patterning. Not suitable for structured garment, as the fabric is soft and flowing. Consider using the purl side for especially nice texture with the tweed look. Linen and Cotton Details 50% Linen, 50% Cotton. 4 variegated shades plus white. Light slub in yarn 250 gr cone $24.65. 10 st/in at T5 (standard gauge). Hand Soft from the cotton and crisp from the linen content. Good body for a light yarn. Cables No problem with the cross, but knit the next row carefully to prevent breaking the yarn. Well defined for a fine yarn. Lace No problem, and very well defined. Tuck 1X1 tuck created a very nicely defined rib look on the knit side and provided a nice diffusion of the variegated striping. Rib MT-3 too loose, but surprisingly springy. At a lower tension, or using tightening (Slide II) you could work an firm, resilient rib. Laundering Hand wash and flat to dry. Washing released slubs and the fabric softened slightly. Sheen improved with washing. We found that there was a 5-10 % shrinkage in all stitches, some in both directions, some in only width or length. Wash and dry sample before measuring. Performance and Recommendations Very rich yarn that seems to offer the best of both cotton and linen characteristics. Would make a striking dress or suit, as the fabric is firm but drapes very nicely. The pure white in lace would be very striking, as the linen crispness really makes the design stand out, and the slub in the yarn add texture without blurring the pattern. Great speciality yarn. Denys Brunton Yarns are available from Creative Product Sales, 200-115 Schoolhouse Road, Coquitlam, BC (604) 526-3151 Designer Yarns Merino Lamb's Wool 2/18's and 2/8's Details 100% wool. 48 colours including brights, neutrals and rich midtones. 500 gr cone; 2/18's $47.25; 2/8's $45.78. 2/18's (2 ply): 11sts/in single stranded at T1 (standard gauge). Double stranded 9 sts/in at T4 (standard gauge). 2/8's (4 ply): 8 st/in at T7 (standard gauge). Hand Very soft with good body. Almost "itch" free. Cables Only tested on double stranded sample for 2/18's. Easy to cross and no problem latching outside stitches, even with two strands. Very suitable for this yarn as they stand out well. Lace 2/18's: No problem with double stranded sample. Had to bring in front of the ribber for the single stranded sample, and move the lace carriage at a slower pace. Not surprising, since this is a big jump for little stitches. Single strand lace is very delicate_reminds me of the fine Scottish shawls from the past. 2/8's: Dropped 1 st at T7. No problem at T6. Tuck Stitch 2/18's: No problem, but with single strand there was little effect. Looks good in double strand. A heavy tuck pattern may be good for a single strand and an effective way to increase fabric width. 2/8's: Very nice effect. Accidentally set machine to tuck in one direction and slip in the other with 1X1 tuck. Super effect in this yarn. Rib 2/18's: Only tested on double stranded sample. Very good rib at MT-3. Springy and significant pull-in. Held well in washing. 2/8's: Not quite tight enough at MT-3, but good resiliency. Laundering Hand wash, lay flat to dry. Even with very careful washing, our samples showed signs of slight shrinkage in width. The stitches fluffed and filled very nicely. It is recommended that you wash samples before measuring, both to guarantee size, and to make sure that you have the effect you want. (We would have used a slightly looser tension after observing the washed sample.) Performance and Suggestions This is a luxury yarn that should be used for your best knitting. Garments that are meticulously finished will rival the best quality ready made garments on the market. Highly recommended for dresses, skirt and pant suits, since the body in the fabric provides both drape and shape. This yarn came with a note that it is "fantastic for boiled wool garments". We gave it a test and agree. Using a single strand of 2/18's at approx. T4, we produced a fabulous sample of boiled wool (ours has a very fine boucle look)-beautiful, but still light enough for indoor garments. Designer Yarns are available from Creative Product Sales, 200-115 Schoolhouse Road, Coquitlam, BC (604) 526-3151 Prairie Wool Yarns 2 ply Details 100% wool. 4 sts/in at T9 (mid gauge). Could also be worked on 8 or 9mm machines. 100 gm skein. Hand Very much an outdoor weight wool. Firm, with scratchy wool feel and look. Cables Very easy and effective. Cables stand out well and suit the yarn. Tuck Stitch No problem, but very heavy. Rib Not bad at MT-3, but you may want to go tighter for a classic look. Laundering Hand wash, flat to dry. Label calls for dry clean only, but we had good results with careful washing four times. No shrinkage, and a nice fluffing of fibres. No sign of any wear. Performance and Suggestions Very nice classic wool yarn. Perfect for outdoor sweaters and jackets. Round yoke styles would be very effective in this yarn, especially if you are looking for a hand knit look. Yarn must be wound from skeins, but worth the effort. Soft Spun Yarn Details 100% wool. 3_sts/in at T10 (mid gauge). Could also be knit with 8 or 9mm machines to 3+sts/in. 100 gm skein. Hand Definitely wool, but with the soft appearance and feel of a lopi style yarn. A bit scratchy, and definitely for outdoor wear. Cables Very easy and suit the yarn. Tuck Stitch No problem, but very heavy. Rib Nice effect at MT-3, but for classic styling you will need to lower tension. Light pull on rib suits yarn. Laundering Hand wash, flat to dry. Label calls for dry clean only, but we had good results with careful washing four times. No shrinkage, and a nice fluffing of fibres. Colourful fibres released with washing and added interest to the surface. No sign of any wear. Performance and Suggestions Perfect for outdoor sweaters and jackets. Round yoke styles would be very effective in this yarn, especially if you are looking for a hand knit look. Did not pull apart or break on machine as many lopi type yarns will. Yarn must be wound from skeins, but worth the effort.