Pumpkins In many parts of the country pumpkins can be planted from spring through mid summer and require a lot of space. Soil Requirements: Pumpkins prefer a sandy loam type soil. Planting: Although seed may be planted in the spring, plant seed for a Halloween pumpkin much latter. It takes 90 to 110 days from planting to harvest for the pumpkin to mature. If your garden area is not very large, consider planting the pumpkin patch on the edge of the garden where the long vines can flow out of the garden. Fertilizer: A fertilizer with moderate amounts of nitrogen and high amounts of phosphorous is best suited for pumpkins. Pests: Aphids, Cucumber beetles, Pickleworm, Squash bugs, and Squash vine borers. Diseases: Bacterial wilt, Downy mildew, Mosaic, Powdery mildew, Scab, and Stem anthracnose. Harvest: Pumpkins take 90 to 110 days to mature and will rot in the garden if left to wait for Halloween to arrive. Store pumpkins in a cool, dry place. _________________________________________________________________ Radishes Radishes easy to grow and require very little care. This rapid growing root crop is often used to mark the rows of slower germinating seeds. If planted among greens, such as turnips or mustards, radishes will serve to deter insects from invading the greens. Soil Requirements: Radishes need a well drained, loose, light soil. Compacted soil or stones in the soil will cause irregular root growth. Planting: The majority of radishes are grown in the cool spring and fall months, but there are some varieties which will tolerate the heat of summer. Allow enough space between plants to insure the roots have enough space to develop. Radishes planted too close together will produce all tops and very small roots. Other than that this plant requires very little attention, outgrowing most weeds. Fertilizer: The only fertilizer you should need is one with a small amount of nitrogen. Composted manure mixed into the soil at planting time should give the plant the steady growth it needs. Pests: Cabbage loopers, Flea beetles, Harlequin bugs, Imported cabbage worms, and Onion maggots. Diseases: Seldom bothered. Harvest: Radishes can be harvested whenever they reach an eatable size. Spring planted radish takes about four weeks. The summer and fall varieties take five and nine weeks respectively. _________________________________________________________________ Rhubarb Rhubarb is a perennial plant which requires cool weather for good quality stalks. Since the plant will be in the same spot for several years, the hot summers of various parts of the country will be tricky to grow this cool weather plant. Soil Requirements: Rhubarb needs a well drained, sandy loam soil to grow. Also the soil should have plenty of organic matter mixed in, such as compost. Planting: Set these plants out so that the buds are 1 to 2 inches below the soil. Allow plenty space between the rows, about four feet. If you live in a part of the country with very hot summers it may be necessary to plant in a shaded area and use plenty of mulch to keep the soil temperatures cooler. Fertilizer: Rhubarb needs low amounts of nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium. Pests: Rhubarb curculio. Diseases: Crown rot. Harvest: Rhubarb should be left to grow undisturbed for the first year. This will allow the plant to establish itself. In the second year harvest can begin by twisting off the outer stalks close to the ground, leaving the smaller inner stalks to develop. Rhubarb leaves are poisonous; do not eat them. If the plant starts to flower, break off the flower. Flowering will reduce plant vigor. _________________________________________________________________ Rutabaga Rutabagas are very similar to turnips, but are much more hardy and require longer period of time to mature. Soil Requirements: A well tilled, sandy loam soil is best for this plant. Planting: Rutabagas are planted in mid to late summer to harvest in the fall. Be sure there is ample space between the plants to allow the roots to develop properly. Fertilizer: A mild nitrogen fertilizer is all that is required. Pests: Aphids, Cabbage loopers, Cabbage maggots, Cutworms, Flea beetles, Harlequin bugs, Imported cabbage worms, and Leafminers. Diseases: Black rot and Leaf spots. Harvest: Harvest the roots when of eatable size. This should take about 90 days. The tops can also be eaten like greens. Do not allow the roots to freeze; this will ruin them. _________________________________________________________________ Salsify Salsify is a vegetable grown for its root. It is used in recipes much like carrots and beets. Soil Requirements: A well drained, loose, fertile soil is important. Till the soil deep for proper root development. Planting: Plant seed in the early spring. Fertilizer: Apply a fertilizer with low to moderate amounts of nitrogen. A good organic source is composted manure. Pests: Seldom bothered. Diseases: Seldom bothered. Harvest: Harvest is done in the fall after a light frost or two. This will improve the flavor. If all of the roots have not been harvested by time the freezes of winter come about, put a good layer of mulch around the plants to extend the harvest time. _________________________________________________________________ Shallots Shallots are small multiplying onions that produce small bulbs. Soil Requirements: Onions need a well drained soil with plenty of compost mixed in. Deep tilling is important for healthy root development. Planting: Shallot bulbs consist of several cloves. Plant these individual cloves in the ground with their tops even with the surface of the soil. Make sure that the soil is kept moist enough for the shallot roots to take hold. Fertilizer: Shallots require moderate amounts of nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium. This plant is somewhat of a heavy feeder, so sidedressing with some additional nitrogen may be helpful. An organic method is the use of composted manure. Pests: Onion maggots and Thrips. Diseases: Downy mildew, Neck rot, Pink rot, and Smut. Harvest: Generally, shallots are grown for their tasty small bulbs, but the leaves can also be eaten. Pick the outer leaves, leaving any new growth coming out of the center to aid in developing the bulb. After the leaves begin to die, it is time to harvest the shallot bulbs. _________________________________________________________________ Soybeans Soybeans are available in many different varieties, varying from those grown for animals to those grown for human consumption. The latter, called edible soybeans, are discussed in this section. They are high in protein and are popular as a meat substitute for vegetarians. Soil Requirements: Soybeans will grow in almost any well drained soil, including clay soils. Planting: Plant soybeans in the spring when soil temperatures are warm. Seed is generally planted about 1 1/2 inches deep unless the soil is very dry and it is late in the season. In this case seed may be planted as deep as four to five inches. Seed may be planted in either rows or broadcasted. Broadcasting seed may cause more difficulty in keeping the area weed free and cultivated. Fertilizer: Soybean, like other bean plants, fix their own nitrogen and require a minimum of fertilizer. Pests: Generally, soybeans do not have a big problem with pests. Regionally these pests can be a variety insects. Two of the more common problems are the Bean leaf beetle and the Mexican bean beetle. Diseases: Seldom bothered. Harvest: Edible soybeans are harvested when the mature pods are still green. Soybeans grown for animals are often harvested and left to dry or, on a larger scale, left to dry in the field and then harvested. _________________________________________________________________ Spinach Spinach is a favorite amongst many gardeners and certain pipe smoking sailors. This leaf vegetable is loaded with vitamins and minerals, including vitamins A, C, and iron. Soil Requirements: A well drained soil, rich in organic matter is best suited for this plant. Liming the acidic soils may be necessary to bring the level to a range of 6.0 to 7.0. Planting: Seeds for this cool weather plant can be planted in either the spring or fall. Some areas of the country can even plant the seed prior to a winter freeze, applying a heavy mulch to protect the plants. Spinach has a shallow root system and should therefore be carefully weeded. Fertilizer: Spinach is a fairly heavy feeder and should be given moderate amounts of nitrogen and potassium. A good organic source for this nitrogen is composted manure. Pests: Aphids, European corn borers, Flea beetles, Leafminers, and Whiteflies. Diseases: Blight and Downy mildew. Harvest: There are two methods for harvesting spinach: Pull up the whole plant or pick the larger outer leaves, leaving the smaller inner leaves to mature. _________________________________________________________________ Squash, summer Summer squash has a soft, tender skin and is commonly named straightneck, crookneck, scallop, and zucchini. Soil Requirements: Squash prefers a sandy loam soil, rich in organic matter. Adding compost to the soil will be very helpful. Planting: Planting should be delayed until all danger of frost has passed. Plant 3 or 4 seeds per hill, thinning the seedlings to two per hill. This plant seems to be particularly sensitive to excessive weeds, so proper weeding is a must. Fertilizer: Squash requires moderate amounts of nitrogen and high amounts of phosphorous. Sidedressing the young plants before they bloom is the best time. A good organic method is composted manure. Pests: Cabbage loopers, Corn earworms, Cucumber beetles, Leafminers, Pickleworm, Spotted cucumber beetle, Squash bugs, and Squash vine borers. Diseases: Bacterial wilt, Blossom end rot, Downy mildew, Fruit rot, Mosaic, Nematodes, Powdery mildew, Scab, and Stem anthracnose. Harvest: Summer squash should be harvested while the fruit is still young and immature. Be sure to keep all overmatured squash picked to encourage plant vigor. _________________________________________________________________ Squash, winter Winter squash has a hard skin and is planted for fall harvest, before the first frost. Some of the more popular types are acorn, butternut, and banana. Soil Requirements: Squash prefers a sandy loam soil, rich in organic matter. Adding compost to the soil will be very helpful. Planting: Planting should be delayed until all danger of frost has passed. Plant 3 or 4 seeds per hill, thinning the seedlings to two per hill. This plant seems to be particularly sensitive to excessive weeds, so proper weeding is a must. Fertilizer: Squash requires moderate amounts of nitrogen and high amounts of phosphorous. Sidedressing the young plants before they bloom is the best time. A good organic method is composted manure. Pests: Cabbage loopers, Corn earworms, Cucumber beetles, Leafminers, Pickleworm, Spotted cucumber beetle, Squash bugs, and Squash vine borers. Diseases: Bacterial wilt, Blossom end rot, Downy mildew, Fruit rot, Mosaic, Nematodes, Powdery mildew, Scab, and Stem anthracnose. Harvest: Generally, winter squash should be picked only after the fruit is fully matured. The Yellow acorn squash is one exception. When the shell of the fruit is hard and the vines begin to die, it is time to harvest the winter squash. _________________________________________________________________ Sweet potatoes This tropical root crop is rich in vitamin C and has more vitamin A than most any other vegetable. Soil Requirements: Sweet potatoes grow best in a well drained sandy loam soil, but will grow in almost any soil that is tilled deep. The soil needs to be very loose for proper root development. Adding compost to the soil will help. Planting: Sweet Potato plants are grown from small plants called slips. These slips can bought commercially or grown at home. To grow your own place some sweet potato roots in moist sand or sawdust about 3 to 4 inches deep. Keep the soil medium near 80 degrees to sprout. When the small sprouts appear, pull the sprouts away from the roots. Cut about an inch off the bottom of the slips and plant in the garden when all danger of frost is over. Fertilizer: Sweet Potatoes require moderate amounts of nitrogen and phosphorous. Potash is very important to this plant's development, so select a fertilizer with high amounts of potassium. Pests: Flea beetles, Nematodes, Sweet potato beetles, Sweet potato weevils, and Wireworms. Diseases: Black rot, Fusarium wilt, and Soil rot. Harvest: Dig sweet potatoes before the air temperature drops below 50 degrees. A frost can cause hard spots and other problems with the tubers. If you plan on storing the potatoes, allow them to air dry out of direct sunlight before storing. Extended exposure to sun can scald the tubers. _________________________________________________________________ Swiss Chard Swiss Chard is grown for its leaves and is cooked like spinach. This warm weather plant is often grown in the summer as a substitute for spinach. Soil Requirements: This plant grows in any well drained soil with plenty of organic matter. Planting: Plant Swiss Chard in an area of the garden that needs the soil to be aerated. This plant has a root system that penetrates the soil very deep and is helpful for this reason. Extremely hot areas of the country may result in small leaf development. Successive plantings will keep a steady supply through the hotter months. Fertilizer: Swiss Chard requires a fertilizer with moderate amounts of nitrogen. Pests: Aphids, European corn borers, Flea beetles, Leafminers, Slugs, and Snails. Diseases: Blight and Downy mildew. Harvest: The outer leaves are picked leaving the smaller inner leaves to mature. _________________________________________________________________ Tomatoes Tomatoes are grown by home gardeners more than any other vegetable. They are grown in gardens, on patios, and in flower beds. Soil Requirements: Grow tomatoes in a well drained soil with plenty of humus or compost. A slightly sandy soil is also preferred, since it will increase water drainage. Soils that hold pools of water can encourage many diseases that effect tomatoes. Carefully check the pH of the soil, because tomatoes like a slightly acidic soil. Planting: Plant tomatoes when all danger of frost has passed and the soil temperatures are warm. Although tomato plants can be grown from seed, they are usually grown from plants because of the long growing season needed for tomatoes. Plants are usually staked or placed around wire cages. Concrete wire or hog wire makes excellent cages. If the plants are purchased in peat cups, gently squeeze the cups to break the peat and set the cups below the soil line. Taller plants that are purchased will have a long stem with no foliage towards the bottom of the plant. Dig a small trench and lay the roots and stem in the trench horizontally, allowing only the foliage to remain above the soil line. This will serve to produce a very good root system and support for the plant. After setting out the new plants it is best to apply a plant starter solution. An organic method of achieving this is to apply a manure tea, consisting of water and composted manure. As the plant grows it will produce "suckers", which are small branches that grow where the main branches intersect the main stem. Suckers tend to take away from the vitality of the plant and causes small fruit. Some gardeners remove all suckers, while others remove all but the first sucker. Leaving the first sucker on the plant will cause the plant to have two main stems. As the plants grow, tie the branches to the stakes or wire with loose twine. Keep the plants mulched to hold moisture in the soil. Be sure to water properly during dry spells, as long dry periods can cause blossom end rot. Fertilizer: Tomatoes are fairly heavy feeders and require a fertilizer with high amounts of nitrogen and phosphorous. Potassium needs are moderate. Pests: Aphids, Blister beetles, Cabbage loopers, Colorado potato beetles, Corn earworms, Cucumber beetles, European corn borers, Flea beetles, Fruitworm, Leafhoppers, Leafminers, Nematodes, Pepper maggots, Potato tuber worms, Spider mites, Stink bugs, Thrips, Tomato hornworms, and Whiteflies. Diseases: Bacterial canker, Blossom end rot, Early blight, Fusarium wilt, Late blight, Mosaic, Nematodes, Payllid yellows, Septoria leaf spot, Spotted wilt, and Stem anthracnose. Harvest: It is best to pick tomatoes as they are turning orange. This will keep the birds, who are also waiting for the fruit to ripen, from pecking holes in the fruit. The tomato will quickly finish ripening on a window sill in the safety of the house. As the first freeze of the year approaches, harvest all remaining green tomatoes and bring them in the house. Wrap the green tomatoes in some newspaper in a warm place and they will finish ripening without the aid of sunlight. _________________________________________________________________ Turnips Turnips are grown for both their roots and their tops, which are cooked for greens. Soil Requirements: Turnips need a loose soil rich in organic matter and nitrogen. Planting: This cool weather plant is grown in both spring and fall. If planting in the spring, be sure to plant the seed early for hot weather will make the roots bitter tasting and woody in texture. If you are growing the turnips for greens, there is no need to thin the plants. Turnips grown for there roots will need ample space between the plants to develop sizeable roots. Fertilizer: Moderate amounts of a nitrogen fertilizer should be applied to this fast growing plant. Pests: Aphids, Cabbage loopers, Cabbage maggots, Cutworms, Flea beetles, Harlequin bugs, Imported cabbage worms, and Leafminers. Diseases: Black rot and Leaf spots. Harvest: Harvest turnip roots before hot weather arrives and before the roots become too large and woody. _________________________________________________________________ Watermelon This warm weather plant needs a lot of room to grow and a long, dry growing season. Soil Requirements: Watermelons need a loose, well drained soil with plenty of organic matter. Tilling in manure prior to the growing season will insure rapid and steady growth. Planting: Plant seed only after all danger of frost has passed. If you live in an are of the country with a short growing season it may be necessary to start transplants in peat cups six weeks before planting in the garden. To get a jump on warming up the soil, black plastic mulch can be laid over the growing area. Watermelons need a lot of space and are planted six feet apart. If your gardening area is small, try planting them on a corner or the edge of the garden. The vines can spill over into the area surrounding the garden. Fertilizer: Apply moderate amounts of nitrogen. A good organic source is composted manure. For record melons, go to the patch in the dead of winter and at the site of each future melon plant dig a hole 3 feet square and 18 inches deep. Fill the hole with cow manure up to four inches from the top of the hole. Finish filling the hole with soil and mark each spot with a stake so that you will know where to plant when it comes time. No other fertilizer should be needed. Pests: Slugs and Spotted cucumber beetle. Diseases: Bacterial wilt, Blossom end rot, Fusarium wilt, Mosaic, Nematodes, Powdery mildew, and Stem anthracnose. Harvest: If hot weather and the growing season appears to be coming to a close, remove all blooms and small melons. This will concentrate the plant's energy on the fruit that remains. Only experience will tell you when the watermelons are truly ripe; for sure the "curl" should be dead. An old method is thumping the melons. You should hear a low sounding thump and not a high pitched thump. _________________________________________________________________ -end of text- _________________________________________________________________