SIY11.TXT Helpful Hints for Surveying in the Real World 52 Chapter 11 Helpful Hints for Surveying in the Real World In this chapter you will read tales of hard-won experience. Many of these inspirations have come while surveying in some deep dark dank muddy hole in the ground. This surveying method was devised to give usable data under the worst of environmental conditions. Cheaply. With inexperienced assistants, or no assistance at all. The instruments are practically indestructible under abnormal use. The only simple way to destroy a Silva Ranger compass is to put it on the dashboard of your car or truck. The defroster will cook it. The plastic mirror will craze and warp and the compass capsule might get an air bubble in it. Silva warns, "Do not lay your compass near [a] radiator[, n]or where [the] temperature can become excessive, such as on a pavement in the sun." I have never tried a radiator, but I have defrosted a couple of Rangers. I don't spend much time around pavements nor in The Sun, but I never have had any trouble with sunshine, black rocks, and the Ranger. I also once broke the hinge on a Silva Ranger by dropping it on a sidewalk. I have dropped Rangers on rocks hundreds of times without damage, but the one time that I dropped one on a sidewalk was fatal. Stay away from sidewalks! The basic surveying method is so simple that I have seldom spent more than an hour teaching someone to survey in a cave. The worst problem is getting legible notes. It takes about ten minutes to master the mysteries of the compass. If the compass is tilted, then it will give you the wrong answer. Be sure that the needle jiggles when you tap the compass. Look in the mirror to check this. Don't try to look at the compass dial directly. The best way to improve the quality of your survey is to improve the quality of your compass readings. Be sure that you have taken a good compass bearing, then take another one. Or better yet, take backsights too. Best yet, have your assistant use a different compass to take the backsights. The compass declination changes with time, as much as a degree per decade. The declination map in the Silva instructions is sufficient for most surveying. If you have a declination error, it will result in the map being rotated. This is more of a nuisance than a calamity. When you are comparing maps, just rotate for best fit. The amount of rotation is the declination error and can be measured with the protractor. A new map could be plotted or calculated with the correct declination if you think it is worth the bother. SIY11.TXT Helpful Hints for Surveying in the Real World 53 Magnetic declination is shown on the topo map of the area. The Isogonic Chart of the United States (see Chapter 14) can also be used to calculate the current magnetic declination. Why bother? The chart in the Silva Ranger Instruction Manual is a bit dated, but is still plenty good enuf for surveying it yourself. The tape measure must seem like a new kind of candy to animals. I have had one tape measure devoured by a herd of pigs, and another damaged by a dog. The 200 foot fiberglass tapemeasure can make quite a Gordian Knot if you aren't careful. My suggestion is to coil it up around your elbow and hand. Tie it with a piece of twine. When uncoiling, walk away while feeding tape from the same side of the coil from which you wound it, Last In First Out [LIFO]. On ground flat and smooth enuf to walk easily, a compass and pace survey is the ultimate in getting a lot of information for a little trouble. The 10% error is acceptable for much preliminary work. If I have an assistant to keep the owner occupied, I can usually pace survey while walking around the land the first time. Try to pick survey stations which you can find again. Not every station need be permanent, but do it whenever convenient. A gatepost, an unusual tree, a point of rock, or a piece of pipe pounded into the ground are good permanent stations. Flagging ribbon or rags will make a station more obvious. Temporary stations need be no more than a scuff mark. If you blaze trees or make other permanent marks, be sure that they are in the right place first. Especially if they are on someone else's land! A 300 foot roll of bright orange flagging ribbon is available from CAVE, Inc for two bux [$2]. Other colors, stripes, polkadots, and flags on wire are available special order. When permanently marking property lines, it is considered to be in good form to invite the affected neighbor along. Bring your camera too. If it ever comes before twelve of your peers, then photographs will be worth a lot more than some mumbo jumbo about compass error. You need not make the distance between stations the same as did the original surveyor. He probably set as few stations as possible. It takes the boss about ten minutes of fiddling to get a good set with a transit or undamped forester's compass. Then he can relax while the rest of the crew hacks brush for a half hour. The Silva Ranger uses no tripod and takes only ten seconds to read. I usually read the compass at each tape-length. You can set up long shots to reduce the number of compass readings, but it is certainly not worth it. SIY11.TXT Helpful Hints for Surveying in the Real World 54 The clinometer should be read parallel to the ground. This means that your target should be your eyelevel on your assistant. The tapemeasure should be read parallel to the ground too. The tape should be pulled tight, with just a little sag. And don't go around a tree and put a bend in the tape. If your station is a mark on the ground and you hold the tape at waist height, then you must read the tape over the station mark. Drop a pebble or your pencil from the supposed tape reading and marvel at how far off you can be. It takes a lot of tape error to have much effect on your survey, but since this is a systematic error (all in the same way) you should eliminate it. You don't need to occupy exactly a station to use it. Here in backwoods Kentucky, corners are commonly trees. It is rather difficult to stand at the center of a tree! Unless, of course, the tree is long dead and rotted away. But then you can't find it. [You can't win. You can't break even. You can't even get out of the game. (That's thermodynamics for you!)] But you can measure as if you were measuring to the center of the tree. Sight the compass on the center of the TO tree while standing in front of the FROM tree. Measure the TAPE to halfway around the tree. Have your assistant put the clinometer target at the proper height alongside of the tree. Another handy trick is for both you and your assistant to take a step or few to the side. This could enable you to "see thru" some brush, or to get away from a perturbing fence or hornets' nest. If you are trying to follow another surveyor, you must be able to find at least one of his stations. It need not be the starting station. Just a station which you can identify. You can start anywhere and go in either direction. If you cannot find any previous station, map the given boundaries of the parcel. The resulting map should look pretty much like the map drawn from the land description in the deed. The boundary should be made of segments which intersect at the corners. From the comparison, you should be able to come close enuf to find a corner if there is anything there to find. Just because your predecessor was a professional surveyor, don't assume that he couldn't make a mistake. While most of today's surveyors check their work for blunders just like you should do, it wasn't always so. There are occasional blunders. Typograhpic errors, they call 'em. The old surveys here in the far Boonies of Kentucky are overrun with blunders. Many were surveyed from the safety and comfort of the owner's front porch, with the assistance of a jug or three of moonshine. It is quite possible for you to be right and for everyone else to be wrong. It is quite common, actually. Even if the old surveyor did a good job, there may be copying errors. I have noticed that about one new mutation is made in every three deed transcriptions. SIY11.TXT Helpful Hints for Surveying in the Real World 55 Every station must reference a previous station, or be a fresh start. But FROM need not be the previous station, only a previous station. You can go back and branch off from any previous station. When branching, circle the FROM in your notes so that you will be sure to notice it when plotting. You can shoot many stations from a single station, such as the locations of several buildings. It is possible to have multiple loops in your survey. These often help to isolate a blunder to a particular part of the survey. When calculating closure, remember that RUN is the distance around the loop in question, not necessarily the entire distance of the survey. For instance, you could map the boundaries, plus the roads, trails, fencelines, streams, buildings, wells, and cave entrances, as well as any other lines and points of interest. You need not actually put your assistant on a station to survey it. A "compass and guess" station is often sufficient. You will get good at guessing the tape after a while. A station can also be located with compass directions from two other stations, and no distances. Measure and plot the directions from the other stations. Your inaccessible station is where the direction lines cross. You probably won't want to survey right down a line such as a fence or the middle of a river. The fence perturbs the compass; the river perturbs the surveyor. Simply survey alongside the line and measure the offset. Five paces is a good distance from a wire fence. Be sure to record which way to the fence, as well as how far. It is a simple matter to survey around a hornets' nest or a briar patch. Just keep good notes of what you are doing. You may want to plot field map as you go along. If you are trying to survey a straight boundary between two corners, you needn't concern yourself with surveying a straight line. Survey wherever convenient, plot this line on your map, draw your straight line, measure the error at each station between the corner stations, and go back to the field and move your tentative stations as indicated on your plot. It sounds overly complicated, but it really is a lot easier done this way. A good next book up is "Compass Land Surveying" by F. Henry Sipe. See Chapter 14, Sources. This book is full of useful information without a lot of fancy mathematics. The instrument used is the Forester Compass, but most of it is applicable to the Silva Ranger. There are good chapters on the legal aspects of surveying and on problem solving. Sipe is showing you how to think about what you are doing; he is not training you to recite magic formulae and incantations. A good next book down is "A Layman's Guide to Land Surveying" also by Sipe. Here he explains how to hire the right surveyor and how to tell him what you want done. SIY11.TXT Helpful Hints for Surveying in the Real World 56 In general, when land is sold, the intent of the seller, rather than the actual land description, takes precedence. It is just too easy to blunder when surveying or typing. The locations of the corners control the location of the boundary lines. A fence may stray from the straight line between corners, but that does not automatically make the fence line the boundary line. Of course the adjoining landowners may agree to call the boundary line any place they choose. If this agreed boundary line is much different from the proscribed location, a written contract should be executed. Consult your attorney. If a line is marked and remains uncontested for a number of years (which varies from state to state), then there are grounds for adverse possession. The direction and distance are merely an aid to finding the next corner. The actual location of the corner takes precedence over where the "degrees and poles" run to. If no one has blundered, then you should be close enuf to easily find whatever the corner is. Blazed trees, carved rocks, car axles or pipe pounded into the ground, and cast concrete posts are good ways to mark corners so that they may be easily found. Corners or lines which move, such as a trail junction or a streambed, may or may not move the property corner or line. The general rule is that if the movement is evolutionary [insidious, gradual and progressive], the boundary moves also. If the movement is revolutionary [obvious, sudden and catastrophic], then the boundary does not move. If you have any problems in applying the basic surveying method to your particular situation, ask. Draw a sketch of what you want to do. I'm especially interested in any scientific applications. This is a good method for measuring points, lines, areas, or volumes with dimensions ranging from a few tens of feet to a few miles. The expected error is about 1% of the distance. A mile of survey line should take between about an hour and a day to complete with a two or three man crew. Applications range from the exotic to the mundane. My particular uses are mapping caves, locating property boundaries, and setting building foundations. I can't tell you everything about everything. Before you holler for help, THINK about what you are trying to do. If you want to modify the method, then you should calculate how this would affect the final survey. Draw yourself pictures whenever you get stuck. And when you are stuck good, it will not be because of something which you don't know, but rather it will be because of something which you do know that ain't so. SIY11.TXT Helpful Hints for Surveying in the Real World 57 There are situations when a 1/2 fast survey simply is not good enuf. For disputes, or where a licensed surveyor is mandated by force of law, get a professional. Even then, you probably will want to survey it yourself first. Get all the problems solved and the arguments with the neighbors settled before the $100 an hour fellow arrives. You can also keep other surveyors honest. You should agree with the professionals within your limits of error. If not, then don't stop asking questions until you know the reason why. And don't accept magic as a answer. Magic is for magicians and shysters and such. Magic will get you ripped off. The hand plotting method with the Silva Ranger compass works well only when the tape distances on the map are between 0.5 and 3 inches. If you are using a two hundred foot tape measure, you cannot accurately plot on an aerial photo or topo map scale. You can accurately reduce a larger map on graph paper by the method of squares. Select your reduction factor, such as ten times smaller. Draw big squares on your map, with each side of the big square the reduction factor [10x] squares long. Now sketch your new map on the small squares, using the map with the big squares as a guide. Enlargements are done the same way, only different. Of course, if you have calculated, rather than plotted with a compass, then you can plot directly at any scale. And if you use my CAVEMAP program on your computer, it might even draw the map on your printer. An enlarging/reducing copier can also be used, but it probably won't be able to make the scale which you want. If you have the proper sort of mentality, you can see that you could easily prestidigitate a few numbers in a land description, and no one would be any wiser. At least not until after the land was magically stolen, and then it is too late. You can see that you don't need to actually walk down a boundary line to survey it. You would use a calculator to be sure that everything closes perfectly, with no embarrassing closure errors to attract suspicion. Even if you don't have this sort of mentality, others do. People have been thinking this way for at least 3500 years. Moses had something to say about it in his second book of rules for maintaining a civilized society. See Deuteronomy 19:14 & 27:17. If any of this is still magic after you have practiced a few times (except for the fact that the red end of the compass needle points North) ask me for a better explanation. No magic. When you make blunders in magic, you can't catch them. This makes magic very dangerous. There should be no magic in your surveying. Magic is for magicians and investment advisors. If you have questions, problems, or just constructive criticism, contact me. Dave Beiter CAVE Inc 1/2 Fast Road Ritner, KY 42639 606/376-3137